Thanks for the response. I think you're probably right about the Prong 1/2 connections. I will take the tape off to make sure, but I think Prong 2 goes to the BATT connection on the alternator, and I think Prong 1 goes to the OFF position on the ignition, as shown by the short bold red line you added.
As for your other bold red line from the BATT connection on the alternator to the Amp gauge, does your tractor have a wire going from the alternator to a dash-mounted amp gauge? It makes sense, though, because the gauge would then directly read the amps coming out of the alternator. The way it's hooked up now, would that prevent the alternator from charging the battery?
I'd be interested to hear how others with push-start and starter solenoid have theirs wired up. This is how it was wired when I got the tractor, and it does start just fine. What I'm not sure about regarding this part of the wiring is how the push start button and the key ignition work together. When the key is turned into the Start position, is that allowing current to flow from the battery, through the amp gauge, through the wire connecting the Start position to the push-start switch, which when pushed sends the current to the solenoid, which opens the pathway for the current to travel from the battery to the starter?
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Today's Featured Article - It Can't Be Done! - A Tractor Story - by Neil Campbell. I'll never forget the time back when I was a boy baling hay on our Farm in Big Rapid, Michigan. The most memorable event that took place was a trip up the steepest incline on the farm pulling an old New-Idea baler with a pony-motor for power and a haywagon. I had just talked my Dad into buying an old John Deere B with 6-speeds ahead and I was real proud of it, except it was a little smaller than the Case tractor that we normally
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