The plate idea mite work. But look at the teethe on the starter for a wear pattern. Measure from end of gear to wear pattern. That will be the max amount of thickness for the plate. I'm guessing 1/8 inch max allowable. Also note that crankshaft moves fore and aft probably 1/32" MAYBE as much as 1/8" if heavily worn so have to allow for that. If no wear pattern on gear then blue the gear and spsin by hand to get such a wear pattern. Make sure crank is pushed all the way back toward rear of tractor when measuring or getting wear pattern.
The problem with the plate is getting it precision indexed so that the starter is not out of alignment.
I think the bridge type reenforcement should be enuf and probably easier. Note that cast iron is tricky to drill and tap. Usualy requires a different angle ground on the drill bit. Google it for the proper angle. I don't recal the angle rite now. When tapping take small cuts. 1/4 turn of tap at a time. DO NOT FORCE TAP. If it breakes off u gotta a real big problem because taps are harder than the front seat of hell and cannot be drilled out.
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Today's Featured Article - Madison's County - by Anthony West. Philip Madison has been a good friend of mine for quite some time. He has patiently suffered my incessant chit chat on the subject of tractors for longer than I care to remember, and on many occasions he has put himself out, dropped what ever it was he was doing, to come and lend a hand cranking handles, or loading a find onto a trailer. Although he himself has never actually owned or restored a tractor, he was always enthusiastic and always around helping with other peoples projects.
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