I will add that if the tractor cranks slowly, it is having two issues at the same time. One is that the slow cranking is possibly a result of long modest battery cables. Putting #2ga. battery cables will perk up the voltage going to the starter. Low voltage at the starter will feed low voltage to the ignition. Making it crank well also makes the voltage higher. From looking at the carter and Gruenwald wiring diagrams, there appears to be no bypass. If fatter cables doesn't fix it, the following will" One pretty simple way to get the full voltage to the coil on start is to put a 12v coil on it that uses an external resistor. Then add a ballast resistor (1965 chevy ceramic ignition resistor with a ceramic design) Put the ignition (black from key) wire on one terminal of the resistor, and hook the other to the negative terminal of the coil. Next use a #12 wire from the starter side of the big starter switch (hot only when the starter is turning) take this wire to the ballast resistor and put a 4 amp diode on the end so that the electricity can flow to the ignition, but not back to the starter. Connect the other end of the diode to the coil side of the new ballast resistor. You have now added an isolated ignition bypass. If the diode is in backwards, it will melt the ballast resistor. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Madison's County - by Anthony West. Philip Madison has been a good friend of mine for quite some time. He has patiently suffered my incessant chit chat on the subject of tractors for longer than I care to remember, and on many occasions he has put himself out, dropped what ever it was he was doing, to come and lend a hand cranking handles, or loading a find onto a trailer. Although he himself has never actually owned or restored a tractor, he was always enthusiastic and always around helping with other peoples projects.
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