Posted by Janicholson on December 24, 2012 at 10:44:40 from (188.8.131.52):
In Reply to: wiring posted by marc walker on December 24, 2012 at 08:30:31:
Assumes no relationship to a old diagram, and makes it correct. Use colors and make a diagram as you go. Starting with the on off switch From the starter motor big terminal, a 10ga wire should be connected. In that wire near the connection at the starter end should be a 50 amp fuse link (mechanically connected, not soldered) From the fuse link, a 10 gauge wire goes to the amp meter (probably + side, but they are marked wierd, so it may be the reverse of that connection) From the amp meter output side, one 12gauge wire should go to a fuse (10 amp) that supplies the ignition and start button. From the fuse take a 12ga wire to the ignition switch Bat terminal. From the switched side of the ign. switch go to the ballast resistor (measure about 2 ohms from the terminals out of the 4 on it.) from that same input terminal on the ballast resistor terminal(from the key) use a 14 gauge wire to connect to a 3 amp diode (connect to the end with no band, of the arrow pointing away from theat end toward the other) From the diode go to the #1 terminal on the side of the alt. From the ballast resistor output terminal use a 14 gauge wire to connect to the coil positive terminal. From the negative terminal of the coil use 14 gauge to connect to the distributor side pass through. (be sure not to let the pass through be grounded to the case where it mounts) Back to the on off sw. From the input (non switched) side of that device, run a 12 gauge wire to the starter button. From the starter button, connect the same color/size wire to the starter relay(soienoid) This assumes the starter is not setup as was original, but has a relay (ford looking device like a small can with 3 or 4 terminals on it) If it has 4 terminals, the "I" terminal connects with a 14 gauge wire to the coil + small terminal. If no "I" terminal ignore the above connection. From Hook that wire to the S (small) terminal on the relay. From the amp meter output side run a 12 gauge wire to the light switch fuse. From the output side of the amp meter, run a 10 gauge wire to the alternator big terminal on the back. From that terminal, run a 14 gauge wire to the #2 terminal on the side of the alternator. Use black plastic tape to bundle the wires nicely. Use crimp on connectors that are bare, solder them and then use shrink tubing to insulate them. This should get the job done and is correct. Jim
Fast Shipping! Most of our stocked parts ship within 24 hours (M-Th). Expedited shipping available, just call! Most prices for parts and manuals are below our competitors. Compare our super low shipping rates! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor. We are a company you can trust and have generous return policies. Shop Online Today or call our friendly sales staff toll free (800) 853-2651. [ About Us ]
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.