There is one screw in the pulley. It has a lock nut on it. Socket wrench and extension will work well for the lock nut. The screw should back out fairly easily once the lock nut is off. If it won't....my suggestion would be to apply a little heat from a small propane torch, then more penetrating oil. The screw locks into a groove in the threaded hub of the pulley. A spray can of penetrating oil can be used to get the oil into that groove and then to the bottom side of the screw. This is best accomplished by turning hub so the screw is on the bottom side of the hub. Once the screw is out, the front sheave of the pulley will spin forward on the threads in that pulley hub. It won't move, however, until the screw is out and the threads are clean. Use a small brush and a spray can of carb cleaner to get the dirt out of the threads on that hub. Once the screw is out, tap on the boss opposite the screw using a long punch and a hammer. Tap first one way, then the other. Don't give into temptation and hit it really hard; that will break it. If you absolutely CAN'T get that screw out any other way, you could put the locknut back on it, and weld the nut and screw together. Then, once it cools, it can be removed as an assembly. Of course, then you'll need a new screw and lock nut.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
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