Cub clutch bounces/chatters at the point of pressing

lekander883 · May 8, 2013

I bought this cub yesterday. I"m concerned about the clutch. gears do not grind, clutch works just fine. It doesn"t make noise when idling or driving. Only when you start to depress the clutch will bounce a little on your foot and make a little clicking or chatter noise. After its fulling pushed down it will no longer make the noise. Again when you release it. You will hear it again. But only at the top of the pedal. At the end and beginning of depressing the pedal. Is this real bad or an easy adjustment somewhere.?

lekander883 · May 8, 2013

...forgot to mention this is a late 40's IH

Janicholson · May 8, 2013

The throwout bearing pushes against three fingers on the pressure plate to release the clutch. Three things make this a point of concern. If the bearing is graphite it can be worn and uneven at its wear surface. The fingers can be either misadjusted, or their pivot points can be worn so that they push unevenly. or the pilot shaft that directs the Throwout bearing"s travel can be worn allowing the Throwout bearing to be wobbly. (a driven disk with missing material can also cause this but less likely. On a CUb I would fix it not use it because the damage can get more expensive if let go. Jim

lekander883 · May 8, 2013

With labor is this an expensive job?

mkirsch · May 8, 2013

Compared to the value of the tractor, paying someone to split it and replace the throwout bearing is going to seem like a major soaking. It's not a $50 job.

It sounds like yours only chatters when you "ride" the clutch, that is, resting your foot lightly on the pedal. Don't do that, and it won't chatter.

There is absolutely no point to pushing the pedal that lightly. It is not a valid diagnostic, and has no mechanical purpose other than wearing out the throwout bearing and the pressure plate fingers.

John M · May 8, 2013

There is a spec for the seetings on the 3 fingers on the pressure plate mentioned. The fingers are not set right. Ive heard people say they can adjust it through the inspection cover, but I personally cant. Letting this go can/will cause the problems Jim mentioned.

jbp · May 8, 2013

I have my dads Cub bought new in 53 and it has done what you describe since new. If the clutch pedal is pressed lightly there is a light rattlening noise. If it is pressed further the noise stops. In 60 years it has had the throwout bearing replaced once when when the engine was out for a major overhaul. Your clutch pedal should either be completely depressed or your foot completely off of it except when starting movement of the tractor. If it doesn't make that noise when completely depressed , I would do nothing to it except an occasional greasing of the throwout bearing. Joe

screwstick · May 8, 2013

The fingers are out of adjustment. Follow this link to adjust through the inspection hole:
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=66543

Leaving it as is will cause premature wear on the graphite throw out bearing, as well as the pressure plate finger pivot pin that is misadjusted.

old · May 8, 2013

Well if you figure around $250 for parts then say twice that in labor your looking at $500 plus depending on who you find to do it. I did one a few years ago and when all was said and done the cub looked almost new. I did a new clutch some other inside work a 12 volt conversion and then painted it

lekander883 · May 8, 2013

Thanks Joe. I got this from my dad as well. And its been this way now for a few years.

lekander883 · May 8, 2013

I called the local brake and clutch mechanic who does work on old tractors. He said $100 to split the tractor and relign the plate... sounds like a good deal to me... ?

Janicholson · May 9, 2013

It is!! but remember the reason they offer free brake inspections at Mineke is that they will find things wrong. Be prepared to buy a new PP and disk as well as a TO bearing and pilot bearing. (go with a ball style throwout bearing replacing the graphite.)
the 100 is still a good deal on the split. Jim

screwstick · May 9, 2013

I have to disagree. I wouldn't spend the $100 until I knew I had to. I'd definately try and adjust the fingers through the inspection hole as per the link I posted above. It's not that hard, doesn't take too long, you can do it by yourself, and it's free!
If you do decide to spend the money and you have to replace parts, do not replace the TOB with a ball bearing type. Use the original graphite type, just pre oil it in a can of motor oil, then grease it before installation so it doesn't go in dry. The ball bearing type will not last near as long as the original style.

Cub clutch bounces/chatters at the point of pressing

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