New snow removal setup

Scored this rear plow from a friend free of charge
last weekend. It's an old manual angle truck plow
with a homemade 3 pt attachment system.

It plowed snow on the back of a Masey 35 for over a
decade so I'm hoping it will do ok on the 8N.
Chains will be the next purchase...

You put it on the wrong end Now your neck's gonna get sore.

Looks good!

Serious sized plow. Get some REALLY large rear view mirrors and a neck brace ! Enjoy

I have a snow plow set up just like yours. Other than the top link, I would have thought it was mine. My top link brace is straight where yours is curved. I'm thinking you probably used metal on hand when building your plow like I did. I have the 2 adjustable feet which works well when the ground is soft. I move the feet washers from the top to the bottom. After the ground has some solid frost, I usually don't need them. If you don't have them you can buy them at TSC.

It looks like a Dearborn plow that someone cobbled up a bit. Should work fine though and free is always good.
Nice score.

Nice lookin' tractor too!

Have you thought about moving the tires from right to left to make the tire bars work going backward?

If you"re on a level surface, good. Otherwise I would suggest chains, weights and stabilizer bars.

I'll try my best to cover all the questions here:

It was made by a friend of mine's grandfather who is a heavy equipment mechanic; he has actually made a couple of them. This one was sitting in the back woods and I was told it was mine if I could get it out of there. Getting it into the truck was a serious workout.

Not sure of the brand, there was a tag riveted to the top, but it was rusted beyond readability.

As far as feet, the ones at TSC didn't look like they'd fit. I will have to make some measurements and keep my eye out for some.

I thought about flipping the tires to run in reverse, but its seems like as soon as the ground gets hard and the snowpack solidifies, the tread doesn't matter at all its the chains that do all the work. And it will do double duty hauling firewood outback over the winter and I'll need the traction going forward.

The driveway is flat and short, no inclines to complicate things. I will order some chains soon and the tires have calcium in them. The previous owner drained a good bit of the water out so they may not have enough weight. But that's a question for another post.

I'll update with more pictures once we get some plowable snow around here.

Chains on the tires will be needed but tires will be fine working in reverse with the chains on. If you operate with hydraulic system in position control, just lift the blade an inch and weight of the blade will put plenty of down-force on the rear wheels for traction , if you have the tire chains on. Skids will be needed to keep the blade from digging in to the driveway stone. Stabilizer bars will help to prevent side-sway control problems and damage to the small chains and brackets that limit hydraulic attachment arm side-sway.

I have a dearborn front mount blade on my 8n, and that blade looks pretty close but not exact. only things that look different to me are the springs and the skid slots. mine takes the same skids as a normal meyers or western plow.

its cool looking but i cant imagine plowing in reverse.

Stabilizer bars will help to prevent side-sway control problems and damage to the small chains and brackets that limit hydraulic attachment arm side-sway.

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I'm glad this came up. I was testing the plow out trying to knock down a pothole in the driveway and I snapped the pin in the clevis holding those chains.

I'd like to add stabilizers but I was looking at the plow this morning and that might be a problem. It is pretty wide so I'm worried that might cause problems with stabilizer bars. I took some pictures to illustrate and maybe you guys with more experience have an idea of what would work:

Thanks,

Cameron

The three point was designed to work under tension, not compression. It's not unusual to break any part of the check chains when backing up and the implement encounters an obstacle that causes it to shift to one side - The only thing stopping the swing is your check chains - I would recommend using sway bars to save your chains.

From what I can see stabilizer bars shouldn't be a problem. They run from a bracket under the fenders and back to the imp. Looks like room for them to me

(quoted from post at 12:53:08 11/19/13) From what I can see stabilizer bars shouldn't be a problem. They run from a bracket under the fenders and back to the imp. Looks like room for them to me

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I was hesitant to order the bars because this plow's mount is wider than the fender brackets. But I guess there isn't anything stopping me from hammering the bars to bend outwards instead of inwards like I've seen them in most setups.

I have not used a truck plow on the back of my tractor, but I have used a backblade with the blade turned backwards. If your blade does not angle, you may find you have to make shorter pushes. Otherwise, you end up with the blade pushing snow until you accumulate too much and you loose traction. In reverse, you will also not have as much speed to roll the snow off the blade. If you can"t find skid shoes to keep the cutting edge from digging in, a pipe cut lengthwise and slid over the edge of the blade works great to keep from tearing up yards and gravel driveways.

I use stabilizer bars on my plow. I also use tire chains. I bought a used set of semi chains then cut half of them off. I used the excess chain to make the od chain a little longer and also ad 2 more loops. My tires aren't filled but I do have wheel wts. I like being able to angle the blade side to side as needed.

One of the nice things about this set up over just turning your blade around is you don't have to worry about hitting something under the snow. The blade will just flop instead of jarring you to a halt. I found that out big time the first time I plowed my neighbors lane several years ago. After several snows, I was able to adjust the springs so the blade would flop when needed but take some resistance so it would stay upright most of the time.