Early 706D Salvage Value

big a

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Went to look at one tonight. S/N 3097, owneer was shredding with it and said it made a clanking sound and died. Batteries too dead to start, but you can hear the sound when cranking...sounds up high like a wrist pin. Heas gasket is blown, and can hear lack of compression one one hole. Antifreeze in oil too,

Now the good...excellent 18.4x34 CO-OP tires on back, decent clamshell fenders, tin is all straight, IH wide front, tight with no welds. Shifters tight, and he claims T/A works good. Always been inside too. Has the HEAVY one piece wheatland style rear wheel weights, and fast hitch. Only one remote . 2800 hours showing, but we both know that is not right.

Pretty sure he isn't going to want to spend the $ to fix it, and I'm thinking about making him an offer, as it would make me a good baler tractor. Overhauled lots of the old 282's so not much to scare me there.

Any ideas as to what a fair bid would be? Located in SE Nebraska.
 














































Guessing a 1,000 bucks or a little more. Tires
are worth close to that if new. But just a
guess. Good luck
 
agree even 1000.00 is too much for 2 tire in good shape. if i was buying it for tires 800.00 would be as high as i would go. 706 are old and expensive to fix for a 2000.00 tractor.
 
Well i am guessing here that a salvage yard would probably give north of 2500 for a lower hour 706 and could care less if it had a broken piston and a blowed head gskt. . at 650 each for the cast wheels and about 850 for the back tire and if it is a wide ft. that would be 650-950 if it has dual remotes there is another 600-700 then three point at 6-800 that leaves head block if still good and all the gears . If it was in my back yard there would be a bidding war between me and you on it cause i would go upwards of 3 k on it.
 
A nonrunning tractor that old with good tires that he doesn't want to peice out - about $1500 to $2000 tops. Hardly anyone will want the 2 point parts, or the single remote. Basically the only thing of value to most people are the rear wheels and the wide front (and even that is getting somewhat limited) and the value of the scrap iron. A salvage yard will only bid up to 50% of what they can hope to sell the parts for since it will also have to cover their labor to pull the parts.

You are ahead of the game knowing that it was good running tractor before you tear into it. Anyone else will bid on what they can see (tires, scrap iron and front axle) and assume the rest is as shelled out as the engine. Sitting at a consignment auction in its present condition I'd be really surprised if it broke $1500.
 
Usually $35 per H.P. is not too far off salvage. If it has a factory W.F that will bring $700+and tires can make a few hundred extra.
 
(quoted from post at 08:22:20 10/10/12) A nonrunning tractor that old with good tires that he doesn't want to peice out - about $1500 to $2000 tops. Hardly anyone will want the 2 point parts, or the single remote. Basically the only thing of value to most people are the rear wheels and the wide front (and even that is getting somewhat limited) and the value of the scrap iron. A salvage yard will only bid up to 50% of what they can hope to sell the parts for since it will also have to cover their labor to pull the parts.

You are ahead of the game knowing that it was good running tractor before you tear into it. Anyone else will bid on what they can see (tires, scrap iron and front axle) and assume the rest is as shelled out as the engine. Sitting at a consignment auction in its present condition I'd be really surprised if it broke $1500.

From what I've seen at consigment auctions lately it would go for far less than that. Last one I was to a couple of weeks ago. A D17 AC with nice rubber, a loader, gas ran well was 1700, 730 case str8 good rears gas 1750, 706 nice looking tractor gas 1700, so I'd bet that wouldn't bring I,000 at auction. Really a case of getting better money from a scrapper.

Rick
 
Probably so.

I only go to one or two consignment auctions a year and that's probably more than I should bother with. The good back tires are the reason I went to $1500, if they were worn out or flat I'd go with your number in a heart beat. Lots of people on Craigs list are getting around a $1000 out of "decent" matched tires that are already mounted on useable rims.
 
I don't think everyone is dealing with the same idea of value.
Look at what it would cost you to buy a good running one,
subtract what you'll figure it'll take you to make it right
and add any premium you would have for the fresh
overhaul/repair, adjust for probability of your repair
cost=what it's worth to you. Compare that to value of parts
and leftover scrap value is your exposure if you guess wrong
on the repair. Depending on your relationship with the owner
tell him your logic on the price something like- I can buy one
with a fresh motor for oh say $5,000 it'll cost me $3,500 to
go through it so I can't pay more than $2,500 for it or Parts
and scrap are worth $3,500 I'll have to haul and break it I
need $1,000 to do that so it's worth $2,500. Of course you'll
pad or adjust whatever figures you use to CYA. If he has an
attachment to it he might sell it for less if he thinks you'll
repair it instead of breaking it for parts, sometimes we get
sentimental about our tractors, who says guys don't have
feelings.
 
Not sure where this'll end up, but I am going to offer $1000 and see. I don't NEED it', but would sure be nice to have., a big step up from my old M!
 
wisbaker, I agree with you mostly on how that should be, but the reality is that the seller sets the initial price, and the tone for the negotiation.

Most of 'em think their machine is a golden shoebox. It is a rare and joyous day when you can tell someone that the tractor they advertised at $7000 is really only worth $2500, and not be run off the property on the end of a shotgun. Even better if they actually believe you and take the $2500 offer.

In this example, the seller MIGHT take $6700, but then again he might be one of those "the price is the price" types, who thinks haggling is unethical.
 
I had one with bald tires, iffy TA, dead batteries, and a spun lower bearing, and a junk crankshaft. Good sheet metal and fenders (flattops)and WFE. I got $850. So with the weights, I would offer $1200 - $1500. Just my opinion.

Best of luck!
 

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