3-point arm castration, so to speak

William Fissell · Mar 25, 2013

3 point arm on the 9N fell off its ball at the
mount point on the axle trumpet. Totally worn plus.

I see replacement weld-on repair ends at TSC, but I
am wary of TSC stuff. Is there a better source?

Also, for them that's done it, what's the welding
rod of choice? 7018?

thanks

notjustair · Mar 25, 2013

I have wondered the same thing on all accounts - I have an end that needs replacing. I wonder if you need the 70 series? Could you use a 6011? I guess if you needed 70 I would use 7014. I would definately V it out first.

I don"t get along AT ALL with 7018. Funny how we have our favorites.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 25, 2013

I use 7018 rods on a job like that

old · Mar 25, 2013

I would use the 7018 AC rod. The stuff I have found is not like to old stuff a person got years ago and it pretty easy to strick an arc with.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 25, 2013

If you truly have a 9-n and the ball joint took over 70 years to wear out, and the TSC part only lasted half again that long, if it were mine that would be acceptable.

William Fissell · Mar 25, 2013

Yes, it really is a 9N, (1940 based on the S/N) and I haven't the faintest idea if it is an original lift arm or not. Yeah, I'd be fine with 30 years- I'll be dead by then. BUT I've had TSC stuff fail the same day I bought it. That wouldn't be so fine.

Ken-Pa · Mar 25, 2013

Go ahead & get the new weld-on ends . Lay the new end on your lift arm , mark the arm , then cut it off with a cut-off disc on your angle grinder . Be sure to grind an good angle on the arm . The new piece generally comes with an angle already on it , but if not , grind it . Then lay both parts on a flat surface end to end tightly . Clamp them so they don't move . Then do a couple good tack welds to hold them in place . I used 7018 DC weld & ran my welder on +DC at 120 for good penetration .Clean up your tacks & check the alignment & tightness of joint . If satisfactory . Go ahead & run a good bead all the way around the arm . Clean it up , then you may wanna turn the heat down to 100 or 110 to do a final weld (depending on your machine), then smooth it off with a grinder .I'm no welder , but even if a hobbiest like me can do it , I'm sure you can too . Good luck & God bless , Ken

russb wa · Mar 25, 2013

I sure like 7014, never tried 7018.

tesmith66 · Mar 26, 2013

(quoted from post at 21:25:12 03/25/13) I sure like 7014, never tried 7018.

I welded one on my International with a 110V MIG with .035 flux core wire. Ground a nice V and made several passes, allowing it to cool and cleaning it with a wire brush after each weld. That was 5 or 6 years ago and I have used it pretty hard. No problems at all.

duey · Mar 27, 2013

William, do what what you want... but on my 2N, I used a hacksaw and cut about 3/16 of the worn loop out.... two cuts... and then "re-formed" (read: hammered,) the loop closed again... then welded the loop closed....it grips the ball nicely and was scarcely noticeable.

Cost? negligible.

duey

3-point arm castration, so to speak

William Fissell

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notjustair

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Anonymous-0

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old

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Anonymous-0

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William Fissell

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Ken-Pa

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russb wa

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tesmith66

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duey

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