3rd Brush Generator

I have a 3rd brush generator from a 46 2N 12v conversion that was working when removed. Was it original to the 2N's? I read that it had to be turned up or down to keep from boiling the battery according to how the tractor was being used here on this site. If anyone needs one for a restoration contact me thru e-mail as I will never use it.

e-mail--- [email protected]

(quoted from post at 12:35:22 02/16/13) I have a 3rd brush generator from a 46 2N 12v conversion that was working when removed. Was it original to the 2N's? I read that it had to be turned up or down to keep from boiling the battery according to how the tractor was being used here on this site. If anyone needs one for a restoration contact me thru e-mail as I will never use it.

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brush generators were used on most 9Ns, 2Ns and early 8Ns. They have some differences, such as mounting brackets.

This one has the bolt within a spring and a bracket on the head with a socket for the bolt head. the bracket is complete.

I sent you an email..

Tom-
As JMOR said, most 9Ns, and all 2Ns and early 8Ns all used 3-brush generators. The exception is the first, early 9N-100000-A small generator that was a two-wire/two brush, 'B' circuit style. It used a square voltage regulator. The poor charging issues relegated Ford to introduce the 'B' generator which was a one-wire/three brush style and it used the round-can cutout. barrel size was about the same as the 'A'. It can be identified because the third brush adjustment is just a HI-LO slider button on the back end plate. Ford then went to the larger 'C' generator to put out more amps, was almost identical to the 1 wire/3 brush 'B' generator only the third brush adjustment now was actually a screw potentiometer. The 2N10000 was then introduced to replace the '9N-C' and was virtually the same as the 'C' only it had two drilled and tapped holes two accept the newly offered Tensioner Bracket. Kits were available from dealers for anyone with a 'C' who wished to add the bracket. I wouldn't muck with the 3rd Brush adjustment screw. Take your genny, ammeter, battery, and cutout or VR, to a local reputable starter/alternator shop and they can tweak it to put out the most efficient charging rate for your system. Then leave it alone. One important detail to always remember is that whenever you disconnect the battery, you must polarize your generator when you reconnect it BEFORE turning the engine over. There are specific procedures to do this and it depends on your system/set up to ensure you have the correct one otherwise you can fry your Voltage Regulator. Many fellas have other issues going on with their tractors -no spark, lack of fuel flow, poor or incorrect wiring, etc. - but the first thing they do is convert it to 12V thinking that will cure-all.

Thanks for the info. After reading what you wrote about the original generators on a 9N using a small square VR.{which was on my 2N when I started work on it,not connected and did not know why), I'm starting to think I've got a 9N with a 2N engine as I have read about here. What #'s should I look for to ck this out and where do I research those #'s?

We need to know your serial number to determine the model year. ALL 9Ns and 2Ns used the '9N' prefix on tractor serial numbers and part numbers. Go to John Smiths' site to read more about identifying your tractor...

www.8nford.com

Tim Daley(MI)