OT Electric fence not working pics may show error

Britcheflee

Well-known Member
Well, I have been working away on my electric fence - put it all up and I got the wife to check it (he he he) NOTHING!
I have enclosed some pics maybe they give a clue to my mistake.
I have the gallagher system:
Chickenfence001.jpg



Yes I plugged it in and the light was flashing - I eventually plucked up enough courage and held on to the two posts...WHAM! Its working there.

I have two wires one going to the top and bottom wire of the fence and one from the ground on the device to the middle wire - from that middle wire I have it also grounded to a post: See next two pics:

Chickenfence002.jpg

The live wire goes to the top wire then bypasses ground and to the bottom wire.
Here is the ground:

Chickenfence003.jpg


This is where I think I may have made my mistake - the picture in the handbook shows the ground wire going from the device to the middle wire and a separate one going to the ground clamp.
By running a single wire from the ground side of the machine to the middle wire and then from the middle wire to the ground post am I doing something wrong?
Here is the end of the line:
Chickenfence007.jpg


that middle wire is just attached to something to give it tension. The wires just end there.
Something obvious I am doing wrong?
 
At first glance I see 2 problems, maybe 3.
1- red steel post as ground, not deep enough, paint & rust on post not good conductor, hose clamp not making good connection.
2- end of the line has hot wires wrapped around wood on post. Impurities & moisture in the wood make a partial short to the grounded wire.
3- looks like PVC pipe used as posts. impurities in the plastic could also form a partial short to the grounded wire.
Remedy- use copper ground rod with connector made for electrical work, proper insulators, either glass or plastic, made for electric fence use.
That's my opinion, someone may jump in & correct me.
Willie
 
Buy the correct insulators or forget it. The wood and PVC will not cut it and for sure not cut it if you have rain or condensation you need the correct insulators
 
I'm not Mr. Electric, but, electricity has to run a full circuit before it works. So, take your positive line and it should go out, and end somewhere thats not touching ground, weeds, etc, and be a continuous run. Then, the ground side goes from the - right into ground, SO THAT....when you touch the + side, the power goes into the physical ground, and runs to the - GRound rod, thus, completing the circuit.

So, take a step back and see if you can tell where you have not made a full circuit. Once power runs full circuit, stuff ALONG the circuit, lights up.
 
(quoted from post at 21:10:08 02/12/13) Well, I have been working away on my electric fence - put it all up and I got the wife to check it (he he he) NOTHING!
I have enclosed some pics maybe they give a clue to my mistake.
I have the gallagher system:
Chickenfence001.jpg



Yes I plugged it in and the light was flashing - I eventually plucked up enough courage and held on to the two posts...WHAM! Its working there.

I have two wires one going to the top and bottom wire of the fence and one from the ground on the device to the middle wire - from that middle wire I have it also grounded to a post: See next two pics:

Chickenfence002.jpg

The live wire goes to the top wire then bypasses ground and to the bottom wire.
Here is the ground:

Chickenfence003.jpg


This is where I think I may have made my mistake - the picture in the handbook shows the ground wire going from the device to the middle wire and a separate one going to the ground clamp.
By running a single wire from the ground side of the machine to the middle wire and then from the middle wire to the ground post am I doing something wrong?
Here is the end of the line:
Chickenfence007.jpg


that middle wire is just attached to something to give it tension. The wires just end there.
Something obvious I am doing wrong?
have used PVC as insulator for decades.......it is fine! Wood is NOT! BIGGEST problem is your tidiness.......you have the 2 wires leaving the red & green post touching & crossing over each other and wood & grounded wire, etc. You can NOT do that! The insulation on those wires is not good enough for the voltage , so it is being shorted to one another before it even reaches your fence. Think of the insulation on spark plug wires or even better on high voltage power lines.....there is none....they just keep the wires away from one another & ground, which is what you must do if you have any expectation of success. Stiff wires supported by good insulators or in free air between one end & the other.
 
All 3 of my fencers require 3 ground rods each, 8' long and about 10' apart to ensure good ground. Plus the wood when wet is going to cause problems. Get rid of the wood or tie the hotwires off to insulators.

I have no problems keeping 250 pound pigs in with my fence.

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 20:53:52 02/12/13) All 3 of my fencers require 3 ground rods each, 8' long and about 10' apart to ensure good ground. Plus the wood when wet is going to cause problems. Get rid of the wood or tie the hotwires off to insulators.

I have no problems keeping 250 pound pigs in with my fence.

Rick


OK thanks very much - back to the drawing board - will work on the suggestions tomorrow - I always thought that wood was a good insulator!
Lee
 
(quoted from post at 04:53:52 02/13/13) All 3 of my fencers require 3 ground rods each, 8' long and about 10' apart to ensure good ground. Plus the wood when wet is going to cause problems. Get rid of the wood or tie the hotwires off to insulators. Rick

What Rick said, believe it. I only have one fencer but have three grounds. I don't run the ground to the fence wires and use only insulators made for electric fencing. The tape I see on the wires in your pics will not be enough insulation, where you have to cross other wires or a post, etc. get the proper tube type insulator. I've had problems where I have to bury a hot wire to cross a gate opening using regular UF type electrical wire (if I recall most of it is not rated for 10,000 volts), I've bought the single, insulated wire made for fences and direct bury and have had not problems since. Check every inch of the hot wire to be sure it's not touching anything unless is has an insulator on it. A hot wire on a wet post will effect the performance. So will too many weeds touching, even the so-called weed burner fencers can get over whelmed. I've never used regular PVC or CPVC but have used the step in plastic posts. They work well for temporary fence but I found they break too easily. I also bought a somewhat inexpensive tester to periodically check the lines, well worth it if you are trying to keep dogs and coyotes out like I am (electric by itself is pretty worthless to keep wooly llamas in, but when a dog touches a hot wire it's a good and loud show).
 
(quoted from post at 01:11:26 02/13/13)
(quoted from post at 20:53:52 02/12/13) All 3 of my fencers require 3 ground rods each, 8' long and about 10' apart to ensure good ground. Plus the wood when wet is going to cause problems. Get rid of the wood or tie the hotwires off to insulators.

I have no problems keeping 250 pound pigs in with my fence.

Rick


OK thanks very much - back to the drawing board - will work on the suggestions tomorrow - I always thought that wood was a good insulator!
Lee
ood is a good insulator.....IF it is absolutely desert/bone dry, but good luck keeping it dry.
 

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