Putting her away for the winter.

I bought my "50" 8n just this past may and used it exclusively for mowing 10 acres of field every couple of weeks. I have had my share of problems with it over the summer, but you guys (experts) have always got me running. I cant believe hoew much I have learned and know that there"s much more to learn. Is there anything in particular I should do to it for the winter? I dont plan on using it other than starting it up evry now and then. Thanks again for all the help.
 
Change the oil, fill the gas tank (to minimize condensation) and add an appropriate amount of gas stabilizer. Run the engine 5-10 minutes to pull stabilized gas into the carb. Check your other fluids, too, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace or adjust points, etc. so she's ready to go come spring.

Park it and if you have birds, throw a light cover over it...

Running it every month or so until fully warm isn't a bad idea.

I use mine to plow snow in the winter and keep a magnetic heater on the hydraulic sump. I bought a float charger earlier this fall and plan to keep that on it, too.

es
 
I do not agree with the other guy. Run it till it runs out of gas. Wait till spring to change oil so that if you do get condensation in the oil you will drain it in the spring. Most of my tractors and I have to many I do not change oil each and every year but more like when they have say 100 plus hours on them between oil changes. I run them all out of gas when I park them and I unhook the battery if not remove the battery so as to be easy to charge the batteries
 
A lot of what you do depends on your planned use of the tractor in the winter: storage or limited use.

It would be best to run it to operating temp once a month. That removes moisture from the engine & fully charges the battery. But, if that won't work, remove the battery & keep it indoors w/ a float charger on it every 2 or 3 weeks. Do not let the battery sit uncharged for more than 30 days. Fill up the gas tank w/ fresh gas & Sta-Bil. If you are not going to use it at all, drain the tank & leave the cap loose; the ethanol in the gas will not store very well! Remove the plugs, put a tablespoon of oil in the cylinders & turn the engine over a few times to lubricate the cylinder walls. Block the clutch. Check tire pressure & add air if needed. Put it on blocks or jack stands to keep the tires off of the ground. Plug the exhaust pipe to keep the mice out. If mice are a major problem, soak some cotton balls in peppermint oil & put them under the hood & around the radiator. Some folks say mothballs work just as well. Change the oil & lube it. Make sure the hydraulic fluid doesn't have water in it. Check the anti-freeze; use 50/50 anti-freeze & distilled water & run the engine to make sure it is well mixed. Don’t drain the block & radiator; all that gets you is corrosion & rust build-up in the water jacket. If the tractor is not kept in a shed or garage, I don't think putting a tarp over it gets you much. A car cover, which supposedly does not retain moisture, would be a better idea.

Most all of this is covered in the owners manual, chapter III, storage.
50 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 09:58:24 10/31/12) A lot of what you do depends on your planned use of the tractor in the winter: storage or limited use.

It would be best to run it to operating temp once a month. That removes moisture from the engine & fully charges the battery. But, if that won't work, remove the battery & keep it indoors w/ a float charger on it every 2 or 3 weeks. Do not let the battery sit uncharged for more than 30 days. Fill up the gas tank w/ fresh gas & Sta-Bil. If you are not going to use it at all, drain the tank & leave the cap loose; the ethanol in the gas will not store very well! Remove the plugs, put a tablespoon of oil in the cylinders & turn the engine over a few times to lubricate the cylinder walls. Block the clutch. Check tire pressure & add air if needed. Put it on blocks or jack stands to keep the tires off of the ground. Plug the exhaust pipe to keep the mice out. If mice are a major problem, soak some cotton balls in peppermint oil & put them under the hood & around the radiator. Some folks say mothballs work just as well. Change the oil & lube it. Make sure the hydraulic fluid doesn't have water in it. Check the anti-freeze; use 50/50 anti-freeze & distilled water & run the engine to make sure it is well mixed. Don’t drain the block & radiator; all that gets you is corrosion & rust build-up in the water jacket. If the tractor is not kept in a shed or garage, I don't think putting a tarp over it gets you much. A car cover, which supposedly does not retain moisture, would be a better idea.

Most all of this is covered in the owners manual, chapter III, storage.
50 Tips

My 3 gas tractors sleep all winter up here in the north country. I disconnect the batts, drain the tanks, start them to run the gas out of the carb, oil changes as indicated (anything with water contamination). In the spring I add gas, hook up the batts, run em till warm and change the engine oils, lube and away I go.

Rick
 

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