question on crankshaft pulley

I had posted about needing a mechanic to replace the crankshaft pulley. It occurred to me that I should explain the situation and see if there is a remedy other than replacement.

Here's the thing. I started up my 2N two days ago. It started well and all was good. Then I heard a little noise that I knew wasn't right. As I got off the tractor and looked toward the radiator, I could see the fan was barely turning. I quickly turned off the tractor. The sound was like a little clicking sound. In viewing the crankshaft pulley, it is not seated firmly against the engine block but has a slight angle. The pulley turns with no resistance. If I use a lever and push the pulley back toward the block, it seems that it is not catching. I checked the bolt that holds the pulley and it is tight. Since I had that problem before, I thought that was the problem but it isn't. Any ideas to confirm that I need a new pulley? If I do, is it at all possible to replace this without removing the hood, radiator, front axle, etc? That is just not something that I think I could do. I could (with difficulty) loosen the generator, remove the belt, remove the bolt that holds the pulley but will the old pulley come out and the new one go in with such a small space? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really need my little tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 17:10:44 10/01/12) I had posted about needing a mechanic to replace the crankshaft pulley. It occurred to me that I should explain the situation and see if there is a remedy other than replacement.

Here's the thing. I started up my 2N two days ago. It started well and all was good. Then I heard a little noise that I knew wasn't right. As I got off the tractor and looked toward the radiator, I could see the fan was barely turning. I quickly turned off the tractor. The sound was like a little clicking sound. In viewing the crankshaft pulley, it is not seated firmly against the engine block but has a slight angle. The pulley turns with no resistance. If I use a lever and push the pulley back toward the block, it seems that it is not catching. I checked the bolt that holds the pulley and it is tight. Since I had that problem before, I thought that was the problem but it isn't. Any ideas to confirm that I need a new pulley? If I do, is it at all possible to replace this without removing the hood, radiator, front axle, etc? That is just not something that I think I could do. I could (with difficulty) loosen the generator, remove the belt, remove the bolt that holds the pulley but will the old pulley come out and the new one go in with such a small space? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really need my little tractor.

The OEM pulley is two piece (or more) construction and the stamped sheetmetal pulley section is known to come loose from the machined hub. Sounds like that is what you have there. If the pulley moves but the hub does not that is almost surely your problem.

The front axle support has to come off to replace the pulley whuich means the hood, axles, and radiator as well. Not a huge job but substantial. You will also likely need a puller of some sort and some creativity to remove the old pulley. Based on your self-assessment I'd suggest finding a friend/mechanic/garage.

TOH
 
Thanks for the assessment, OH. I'll check to make sure the pulley hub is not moving. If your diagnosis is correct and I can't find anyone nearby, I guess I'll have to tackle it myself. I did put on a new radiator last year so that part I can do. It's the axle removal that worries me.
 
Dunno if Dustin Hill (Lexington, NC) works on'em but maybe he knows someone close by... 336-239-4566... He dose part out allot of Fords...

I work on'em Google " Hobo Rosser Garage Sanford,NC "...
Don't do road service it would have to be hauled to my shop....

I know another buy that lives west of Greensboro I will email him and see if he knows someone your way...

This is a tractor shop around Eli Whitley on 87 that always has allot of Ford tractors around the shop...
 
(quoted from post at 17:33:33 10/01/12) Thanks for the assessment, OH. I'll check to make sure the pulley hub is not moving. If your diagnosis is correct and I can't find anyone nearby, I guess I'll have to tackle it myself. I did put on a new radiator last year so that part I can do. It's the axle removal that worries me.

Axle separation isn't as bad as you might think:

  • [*:b06b0e8b80]Raise front of tractor just enough to get front wheels barely off the ground and block it securely[*:b06b0e8b80]Remove two large hex bolts on each side that hold outer axle extensions to center axle and lay axle extension to side with wheel, radius rod and steering linkage still attached[*:b06b0e8b80]Remove radiator[*:b06b0e8b80]Remove 6 small hex bolts that hold axle support to engine and remove axle support with center axle section still attached.[/list:eek::b06b0e8b80] At that point the pulley is fully exposed to your attack ;-)

    TOH

    TOH
 
T-gal........its really not a bad job once you gitt'chur front wheels/axle swung to one-side. (either side works) The 2-piece riveted and stamped sheetmetal hub is known fer commin' apart and NO repair. Replace with 1-piece "BILLET" hub used for front-end hydraulic pumps. TIP: honk yer BIG front pulley nut to 150ft/lbs........2nd BIG TIP, stuff some soft 1/4" clothesline rope down enny sparkie hole so yer crankshaft won't turn in circles. Simple, eh? ........cranky Dell
 
when the cast pulley on my farmall c broke.. I hear ya about the creativity part.. have to use a die grinder and split the hub as far as i could and stay out of the timing cover..t hen use a chissle to finish it off.. then i could at least remove the timeing cover..
 

Only issue is on a N its next to impossible to do,,, doable but difficult... I would not go their unless I feed at least 10ft in the cylinder,,, Theirs is the possibility you could bend a valve so make dang sure you are on compression stroke...

Run out ans stuff a few feet in the hole on yer N and let us know how EZ it is....
 

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