Lift cover off,

Remove Control Spring Yoke, next step in rebuild according to the Shop Manual, don't want to budge. Not so sure I need to do this step. Soaking in PBB, could try some heat later. There are things attached that might not survive BFH.

On what model tractor?

" There are things attached that might not survive BFH. "

That's for sure.

If it's an 8N (and maybe for the 2 & 9N's as well) you need to remove it to get the draft control adjusted properly.

Got Zane's jig?

Unless it's been off in the last 10 years or so, it's not going to come off until it's glowing red from an acetylene torch. (not propane) Don't waste your time w/ PB blaster.
50 Tips

Bruce, sorry for the poor netiqutte, not saying the model, 8n, 1948. It looks like it has never been apart.

Back to the Main Control Spring Yoke, It would appear the place to put the heat is right on the (#41 FO146) Yoke. I have to look at the book (FO4) rather than trust what I see. I was thinking the sleeve that rides within the big coil spring was where the yoke threaded and woulda put the heat there. Thankful, didn't go down that long dead end.

This is fun stuff. Only a few ways that work.

So far, I found the gasket on top of the cylinder was blown. Also, the cam and pin for Position Ctrl are worn terribly.

The lift worked ok, despite the leak. I have a good idea where the adjustments are/were and may put it back the same and consider that issue more later.

I am about to cut some notches into the Lift Arms hoping a gear puller will do that task??

The Lift Arm bushings seem quite warn. I am not sure, maybe it was the 2n-9n had a one sided issue. Nothing mentioned in the book for 8n. All should be revealed in the fullness of time.

Thanks Bruce, for your kindness and patience. -russ

" I have a good idea where the adjustments are/were and may put it back the same and consider that issue more later."

I wouldn't do that.

You are already spending a lot of time & a fair amount of money to get it right. It's next to impossible to adjust the lift w/ 60+ years of wear on the parts w/o Zane's jig.

This thread covers about every way possible to remove the arms.
Upper Lift Arm Removal

If the yoke is siezed on to the rod it is often unlikely it will release. When that happens I cut my losses by carefully cutting or grinding the yoke off so as to save the rod. Then only the yoke needs replacing. Both parts can be purchased new. Try a little heat but be careful as one or the other or both can be ruined.

I would abandon trying to remove the lift arms. That slop in the bushings will have nothing to do with the operation of the lift. It's adjustment, adjustment, adjustment mostly.

Unless you plan on using the draft a lot as in plowing you might consider letting it slide also.

To remove that yoke it will usually take a lot of heat. (Red Hot) around the portion where the threaded part is. Using too much torque on the yoke when it is seized will result in a broken draft linkage or a broken alignment dowel pin that is designed to keep the draft likage positioned. Not designed to hold against extreme twisting motion.

8N FORD TRACTOR LIFT ADJUSTING JIG AND BOOKLET FOR ADJUSTMENT

This is something that has been needed for years. It is not an original idea for me. I used to be a mechanic and parts man in a small dealership in Talladega AL. and used such a jig to adjust the 8N lifts. The jig that was supplied to every Ford dealership was cast aluminum and I suppose that most or all of them have been lost or broken over the years because nobody can lay hands on one. I just made up my mind to resurrect the knowledge and so the booklet that I have compiled and the jig I have fabricated by actually repairing and adjusting an 8N lift and fitting the jig so it can be done in a more practical way. What the jig does is give a hard fixed point to adjust the linkage to.
I am going to charge a total of $65.00for the pamphlet with illustrations and text instructions for adjusting the lift along with the jig and a new cam follower pin. This price includes the shipping in the USA. If sold outside the US the shipping is more and I will state it for the destination. Usually about $10.00 more to other countries, but more in some.

Adjustment alone will not fix a system that has excessive internal hydraulic oil leakage. If the lift will not hold a load for more than a couple of minutes you should repair the lift while the cover is off for adjustment. Such things as replacing the pressure relief valve and the piston rings on the ram cylinder piston etc.

Total is 65.00

PRICE OUT OF LOWER 48 IS $75.

Send a personal check and it I will ship when it clears the bank
Send a Money order and I will ship the next working day.

I now accept PayPal too. Email [email protected]

Send to—
Zane Sherman
2824 Renfroe Road
Talladega Al. 35160
256 268 2327

Bruce, did the heat thing. Took about 2-3 minutes guestimate with a #7 tip, Yoke is off.

I really like what Hobo and others say. Particularly the air hammer. I have been given to believe in other circles, "it is the number of impacts rather than high force".

As to the Zane thing a ma bob, that may well be the clear quill. I sure don't doubt your word on that.

As to the Zane thing a ma bob, that may well be the clear quill.

Click to expand...

Zane has several hydraulic devices for the N's.
I don't doubt any of them.