Hydraulics not working

I rebuilt the pump on my 1950 8N recently which included a new relief valve due to erratic operation (lifting). Couldn't find where to purchase the other valves. The lift cylinder has new oring and washer. Of course the darn thing doesn't work now. I did notice while adjusting everything to factory settings (Ford manual) that the arm that goes from the control lever to the valve actuator had been heated in the past and bent to make it operate the lift valve. Currently the yoke doesn't touch the housing of the pump with the control lever in the fully upright position. Probably the issue but when I first started it it went up 2 times and then stopped. Any idea why it would be necessary for someone to bend the arm to make the control valve work better? Could this arm be from an older tractor and adapted to make work? In the past I had to take the contol lever past the upright position by removing the bold at the top which stops the lever to get the 3 point lift to work.

someone bent the arm to make up for a lift cover that had worn out and / or out of adjustment parts.

can you manually make the lift operate by movign he valv e in and out?

dod you service the cam follower pin and cam when you had the cover off to replace the lift piston?

Is there any difference between draft mode and position mode?

8N FORD TRACTOR LIFT ADJUSTING JIG AND BOOKLET FOR ADJUSTMENT

This is something that has been needed for years. It is not an original idea for me. I used to be a mechanic and parts man in a small dealership in Talladega AL. and used such a jig to adjust the 8N lifts. The jig that was supplied to every Ford dealership was cast aluminum and I suppose that most or all of them have been lost or broken over the years because nobody can lay hands on one. I just made up my mind to resurrect the knowledge and so the booklet that I have compiled and the jig I have fabricated by actually repairing and adjusting an 8N lift and fitting the jig so it can be done in a more practical way. What the jig does is give a hard fixed point to adjust the linkage to.
I am going to charge a total of $65.00for the pamphlet with illustrations and text instructions for adjusting the lift along with the jig and a new cam follower pin. This price includes the shipping in the USA. If sold outside the US the shipping is more and I will state it for the destination. Usually about $10.00 more to other countries, but more in some.

Adjustment alone will not fix a system that has excessive internal hydraulic oil leakage. If the lift will not hold a load for more than a couple of minutes you should repair the lift while the cover is off for adjustment. Such things as replacing the pressure relief valve and the piston rings on the ram cylinder piston etc.

Total is 65.00

PRICE OUT OF LOWER 48 IS $75.

Send a personal check and it I will ship when it clears the bank
Send a Money order and I will ship the next working day.

I now accept PayPal too. Email [email protected]

Send to—
Zane Sherman
2824 Renfroe Road
Talladega Al. 35160
256 268 2327

I just reworked a cover that had the control lever bent and used Zane's jig and instructions and the lift works perfect. I also have used lift parts for sale. Jim --No-Advertising-in-Forums

No difference in draft or position mode. Which brings me to a question I have. Should you set the position in "position" setting and then go to draft setting or can you set the position in draft? I sometimes use draft to really smooth the driveway and not have to constantly adjust the box blade.

I did not service the cam follower pin and cam while the lid was off. Had company this weekend but am planning on moving valve in and out by hand this weekend. Hopefully my fingers will be intact and I will still be able to type on Monday!

(quoted from post at 11:32:56 09/24/12) I did not service the cam follower pin and cam while the lid was off. Had company this weekend but am planning on moving valve in and out by hand this weekend. Hopefully my fingers will be intact and I will still be able to type on Monday!

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hich way is control arm bent? Is it such that bend places bottom of it closer to pump (forward) or bent back to place it further to rear, away from pump?

keep em out of the oil.. just move the arm....

It is bent towards the pump. I did manually work the control arm and the rocker lever and the lift works fine. The control arm flops in the breeze though and when lift lerver is moved to the upright position the control lever seems to move up and down rather that forward and backward. The friction disc is missing and if I shim the plate for the control lever out, I get more movement from the control arm. Is there a way to adjust the position control lever?
I have the lift cover off now and want to make sure this is right before putting back together again.