Oil light coming on then going off?

Charley Irwin · Oct 5, 2012

I have a 2000 ford three cylinder gas and the oil light keeps coming on then going off. The oil level is right on the full level and doesnt use oil between changes. Does anyone have any suggestions? This old tractor (1967 I think??) is a really great tractor...is hell for stout!

Thanks for any help.

Charley

TMo · Oct 5, 2012

Might just be a a simple electrical issue. Mine was doing that the other night and it was just that the spade connector was coming loose from the oil pressure sending unit.

RodinNS · Oct 5, 2012

If it was doing this only at idle when it's warm I'd be concerned... If it's completly random... then I'd say it's an electrical issue. The light bulb is powered continously when the key is turned on... and it receives a ground path through the sender when there's a low pressure situation... so basically a bare wire anywhere between the bulb and the sender, or a bad sender will cause the light to come on. Take a quick look at the wire from the sender to where it disappears into the harness. If you don't see anything there... pull the wire off the sender and tape the end... then see if the problem continues. If it does, pull the instrument cluster back and look at the wiring on top of the tank. That's a place where it sometimes chafes through...
If the problem goes away with the sender unhooked... I'd probably just replace the sender and see what happens.

Rod

JMOR · Oct 5, 2012

(quoted from post at 10:24:38 10/05/12) Might just be a a simple electrical issue. Mine was doing that the other night and it was just that the spade connector was coming loose from the oil pressure sending unit.

Mo, your tractor must not be a 2000 then, since removing the wire from the oil pressure switch ('sender' you called it) will result in light never coming on, since that is where light gets its ground. I guess it could fall off & touch the engine for ground & light up.
It may be easier/more comforting to temporarily replace the oil pressure light switch with a mechanical pressure gauge for short period of observation. If all is well then, tackle the switch, wiring, light problem. If not tackle the loss of oil pressure problem before engine destructs. That would & has been my approach.

TMo · Oct 5, 2012

I have a 1969 Ford 3000 gasser. I think my problem was that the connector on the wire was bouncing around and hitting the engine block. Sorry if "sender" isn't the correct terminology.

Thanks,

Tyler

JMOR · Oct 5, 2012

(quoted from post at 11:32:19 10/05/12) I have a 1969 Ford 3000 gasser. I think my problem was that the connector on the wire was bouncing around and hitting the engine block. Sorry if "sender" isn't the correct terminology.

Thanks,

Tyler

ou can call it a sender if you like, I was just making a point that it is a switch..... maybe "oil pressure sender switch". It isn't important . :wink:

Sean in PA · Oct 5, 2012

"Oil Pressure Sender Switch" is the correct term. According to the New Holland parts web site:

81873524 - Switch, Pressure, Oil Sender, 3 Cylinder, Start Year: 01/01/1965

awhtx · Oct 5, 2012

I went to O'Reilly's Auto Parts and bought a Oil Pressure Switch for a 1965 Mustang (non-GT). It works perfectly in my 1967 5000D. It's nothing but a switch that opens at 5 or 10 PSI, extinguishing the light.

RodinNS · Oct 5, 2012

The correct one, IIRC, is a 4 psi switch. You can call it whatever you like, just don't call me late for dinner.

Rod

awhtx · Oct 5, 2012

You can call me anything you want as long as you call me for supper!

Charley Irwin · Oct 8, 2012

I have a update I don't understand what's going on ...I looked for a wiring problem but not being able to see all that well didn't find the culprit (yet). I did clean off the motor and washed off the degreaser and the oil light now stays on... Is this a good sign or what? Also, having had a very bad experience with "idiot" lights (lost a motor once was told to ignore it) ... My question is how can I tell 100% my motor is getting oiled properly? It's pretty out
Today and so am going to spend most
Of day trying to run down problem(s). Thanks everyone for your help believe me
It is most appreciated...at 73 any help is appreciated☺

Charley

?

Sean in PA · Oct 8, 2012

With the light being intermittent before, and now after your cleaning it is on all the time, my guess would be that your cleaning job changed an intermittent short into a permanent one. The best way to check is to disconnect the wire from the oil pressure sender switch and then measure the resistance (or continuity) between the connector on the oil pressure sender switch and a good ground point with the engine running and without it running.

The sender switch is on the left side of the engine block, just forward of the oil filter and just rearward of the generator (or alternator if yours has been converted).

It should be close to zero ohms on an ohmmeter (or good continuity on a continuity checker) when the engine is not running, and infinite ohms (or no continuity) when the engine is running.

JMOR · Oct 8, 2012

(quoted from post at 09:54:38 10/08/12) I have a update I don't understand what's going on ...I looked for a wiring problem but not being able to see all that well didn't find the culprit (yet). I did clean off the motor and washed off the degreaser and the oil light now stays on... Is this a good sign or what? Also, having had a very bad experience with "idiot" lights (lost a motor once was told to ignore it) ... My question is how can I tell 100% my motor is getting oiled properly? It's pretty out
Today and so am going to spend most
Of day trying to run down problem(s). Thanks everyone for your help believe me
It is most appreciated...at 73 any help is appreciated☺

Charley

?

y earlier suggestion is still good, "It may be easier/more comforting to temporarily replace the oil pressure light switch with a mechanical pressure gauge for short period of observation. " Sean's use of Ohmmeter also a good suggestion and if you don't have an Ohmmeter, then find any old automotive light bulb (same voltage as tractor) and wire one bulb terminal to your sender switch terminal and the other bulb terminal to your battery......it should light up, then when you start engine it should go dark.

RodinNS · Oct 8, 2012

Don't over think this... Pull the wire off the sender. Turn the key on. If the bulb lights up you have a ground on the wire somewhere between the bulb and the end of the wire.
If the light is off with the wire unhooked. Good. Rehook the wire to the sender. If while running you now have random light activity, replace the sender.
If you have a consistently lit bulb at idle... then you better get a gauge on there and find out what pressure it really has.

Rod

Charley Irwin · Oct 8, 2012

A BIG BIG THANK YOU...I finally found the problem thanks to the excellent help!! Once I found the sending unit it was right there...the clip had slipped off so I squeezed it a bit ...slipped it back on and everything was back to normal! Yes I was "over thinking the problem " and needed a bit of excellent coaching...life is good!! I will sleep good tonight!

Charley

Oil light coming on then going off?

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