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600 ford stalling

D

Dave Mattlin

New User
This message is a reply to an archived post by Charlie G. 377LM5C on May 01, 2011 at 08:20:24.
The original subject was "600 ford stalling".

I have the same problem and I'm curious to find out what your solution was. My 640 starts, runs for 30-45 seconds then quits and won't restart. I've cleaned and rebuilt carb and fuel lines, replaced coil, replaced condensor, replace plugs. I have spark after it dies and won't restart. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
 
(quoted from post at 14:57:07 10/01/12) This message is a reply to an archived post by Charlie G. 377LM5C on May 01, 2011 at 08:20:24.
The original subject was "600 ford stalling".

I have the same problem and I'm curious to find out what your solution was. My 640 starts, runs for 30-45 seconds then quits and won't restart. I've cleaned and rebuilt carb and fuel lines, replaced coil, replaced condensor, replace plugs. I have spark after it dies and won't restart. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Click to expand...
uel still flow out carb drain plug, immediately after it dies at a rate and duration to fill a pint bottle in under 2 minutes??
 
(quoted from post at 15:11:50 10/01/12) Will try this evening, if I do not have that amount of flow what would be causing the issue?
Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
ou said you had checked the lines & carb, but didn't mention the sediment bowl or the tank valve.....both have very small passages & I have found the valve passages completely blocked by bits of grass, seeds, rust and even insect parts.
 
at point of stall.. if you have spark.. look at fuel.

a drip or dribble of fuel is not good enough
 
what's it do under carb bowl.. that's what you need to see.. not sediment bowl.

also need to know spark at point of stall...
 
Yes I have spark at time of stall, have not checked flow at bottom of carb. If the flow is low what could be the cause? Thanks again.
 
(quoted from post at 15:40:32 10/01/12) Replaced fuel valve, cleaned tank and sediment bowl. I'm lost?
Click to expand...
eep checking, because IF & I emphasize IF, you have fuel & spark and it runs sometime but not at other times, that spark & or fuel is going away at those "don't run" times & you just haven't found it yet. Other things that cause engines to not run are loss of compression & valve & ignition timing and those are very, very unlikely to go wrong & recover on their own.
"At time of stall, I loosened sediment bowl and it pours out with seemingly no restriction.
Thanks for the reply."

If you read my suggestion, you noticed that I did not say to check sediment bowl flow at time of stall..........what I said was to open the carb bowl drain plug. This is an all-the-way, tank thru everything including carb check....not a half way measure. Further more a 10 second flow at this point still means nothing! Will it fill a pint bottle in less than 2 minutes??????? And I don't mean 3 or 4 minutes after the stall....I mean right now at stall.
 
(quoted from post at 16:59:06 10/01/12) I read your suggestion, thank you. Where should I look if I do not have the proper flow at the carb?
Click to expand...
ou just keep looking further down stream from the point that you last found good flow. If you took glass bowl off & had good flow there, then down stream would include the output passage of the sediment bowl assy, including the hole in the hollow bolt mounting it, the inlet passages of cab from hollow bolt , to & through the float needle/seat assy.
 
Sound guy, I opened the drain plug at the bottom of carb at time of stall, drip...drip.....drip. Any thoughts of what the culpret might be? The ports from the sediment bowl to carb are clear. third time for carb cleaning????????
 
My guess would be the needle valve is sticking closed. Try tapping the bowl of the carb with the handle of a screwdriver the next time it happens to see if it makes it run properly for a while.
 
soemthing in the float, valve, needle, seat... time to pop her open if you are sure she gets gas OUT of the sed bowl banjo bolt..
 
Thanks for the reply Sean. I went through the same process tonight. At time of stall I opened the carb drain plug nothing but a drip, the ports from the sed bowl to carb are clear and I've cleaned the friggin carb twice already. Thanks for the tip I'll try anything. However I have the carb off should I go ahead and do a rebuild?
 
float may be heavy, or stuck, pin might have come out cocking it to the side hanging it on the side of the bowl.. needle may be burried intot he seat and wedged by grit.. may be a chunk of junk in the seat.. etc.

good luck

post back
 
(quoted from post at 20:09:11 10/02/12) Sound guy, I opened the drain plug at the bottom of carb at time of stall, drip...drip.....drip. Any thoughts of what the culpret might be? The ports from the sediment bowl to carb are clear. third time for carb cleaning????????
Click to expand...

Sticky needle valve maybe, as you said you have full flow at the sediment bowl.
Do you have an inline filter too? If so, replace it with a piece of hose to eliminate it as a possibility.
 
You have the magic viton tip valve that sticks shut often.Taking the drain plug out wont prove much because a short passage in the bowl plugs with rust.Do this, take off the air cleaner hose.Have a pump oiler filled with gasoline.When the engine trys to stall give it a few squirts of gasoline.If the engine picks up speed that proves the magic cure all viton tip needle valve is stuck shut.A 31 Model A Ford taught me this in the early 50s.Paint the oiler red and use fresh gas when you use it.You can use starting fluid but I think that stuff fires on compression way before top dead center.If you run out of gas in a gravity feed system you may have trouble getting gas to flow again.
 
Well boys and girls, first of all I want to thank eveyone for their input. This site is a great resource for troubleshooting these pain in the axx ( i mean hard headed) machines are. It appears the needle valve was the culprit. I replaced the needle valve and seat and it ran like a champ. The new needle vale came with a clip that attaches to the float flange, seemed like a no brainer. GO Reds and stay thirsty my friends.
 
Soundguy, thanks gain for your help. Turns out it was the needle valve. I replaced the valve and seat the valve came with a clip that clips onto the float flange which seemed like a no brainer. Runs like a new machine. GO REDS
 
(quoted from post at 21:01:17 10/03/12) Well boys and girls, first of all I want to thank eveyone for their input. This site is a great resource for troubleshooting these pain in the axx ( i mean hard headed) machines are. It appears the needle valve was the culprit. I replaced the needle valve and seat and it ran like a champ. The new needle vale came with a clip that attaches to the float flange, seemed like a no brainer. GO Reds and stay thirsty my friends.
Click to expand...
appy for you!! I told you to keep looking down-stream & you would find it & you did, the last place you looked. ha ha . At the end of the stream.
[i:9e2ec3a2b4]You just keep looking further down stream from the point that you last found good flow. If you took glass bowl off & had good flow there, then down stream would include the output passage of the sediment bowl assy, including the hole in the hollow bolt mounting it, the inlet passages of cab from hollow bolt , to & through the float needle/seat assy.[/i:9e2ec3a2b4]
 
The clip makes the float weight pull the stuck needle valve open.Told you what the problem was.We learn by doing, the problem is remembering.
 

The neoprene tip on the float valve needle is notorious for sticking to the seat. I have always reused the steel one. Maybe someone has an answer to how to keep it from sticking.
 
I suspect additives in gas are glueing the neoprene to the seat.Small engines with a soft seat have the same problem.The Grose jet will stick shut.A spring clip from the needle to float is a sure fix.A fellow who rebuilds early Ford carberators wont use viton tip needles.In any case a pump oiler with gasoline in it will catch sticking needle valves.
 
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