801 motor interference on install in 812

I am installing a 801 motor from a stationary
power unit into a 821. There hasn't been a ford
motor in the 821 for many years. I am using the
motor spacer plate from the stationary PU as it is
under the flywheel.
I have the motor up to the bell housing and when
I tighten the three (so far) 3/8 ? bolts (1 on
top,1 each below the starter and pass side)I get
an interference when I rotate the front pulley.
If I power through the interference it "clunks"
and turns. If I stop at the point of interference
it"locks up"
If I back out the bolts 1/4 inch there is no interference, and there is cylinder compression.

things I noticed:
1) There is a plate on pass bottom of the bell
housing (I have no 3 point) that blocks the
hydraulic line.
2) If I bolt up the starter it only spins,(no
engagement).
3) I have to adjust the clutch eye bolt all the
way down to feel the fingers touch (new clutch).

1) DOES THE HYDRAULIC PLATE COVER GET REMOVED?
2) SAME STARTER FROM STATIONARY PU.
3) DO I NEED TO HOOK UP FRONT AXLE?
4) THERE IS A SHERMAN HI LO AUX TRANS
5) What can be locking up??

i am ready to pull out the motor What should
I look for?

Thanks
BELLHOUSING

Removing the flywheel is not a big deal. I think that I would remove it and compare plates.

I think I CAN PULL BACK THE MOTOR ENOUGH AND PUT THE ORIGINAL 821 motor plate as a comparison.
(But I think they are the same).
I am thinking that the cause of the problem
is the Sherman transmission. If it has the
spline Gear and pilot shaft sticking out
too far The last 1/4 inch will bind something.

I will measure the distance of the shaft to the bell housing and
compare it to the stationary bell housing.

I may have to grind off the tip of the Sherman.
Or Space out the motor (not good).

It may also be that the shaft is not entering
the pilot bearing (don't know how to check.


George

Check the flywheel on the two engines to see if they are the same. The sherman should not cause a problem as long as your new clutch matches the splines on the transmission.

Mark

I am willing to bet that the spacer plate is too thin. Every Power Unit engine that I have bought has had a very thin plate between the flywheel and block and some have had different flywheels. You need a flywheel that is around 4 inches thick or so for it to be correct for a 01 series tractor. Those tractors also used a spacer plate that was thinner than the 00 series tractors but thicker than the plates that were on the Industrial Engines.

I will mic it today when I pull out the engine.

I will also check if the pilot bearing looks
off center.

The flywheel is about 1 1/2 in thick
I will also mic the distance of the pilot
bearing center to the spacer plate.
On the stationary trans the tip of the
trans shaft is 1.057 in from the housing.

I will also mic the clutch bearing depth when
at maximum engaged.
And the distance of the clutch fingers to
the plate.
It seems like I need maximum adjustment to reach
the fingers. This may be because of the thicker
flywheel you suggest.

Thanks for the suggestion.
George

I wish I had the original engine.
It was replaced with a 62 jeep 4cyl long long
ago.
The jeep was installed with a jeep plate and
jeep flywheel, and then the original
ford plate. And finally a 821 pressure
plate and clutch. This probably resulted in
spacing the motor OUT by another 1/4 inch.

MAYBE THE EASIEST SOLUTION IS TO USE THE TWO
FORD SPACER PLATES.????

Thanks
I'll get back with what I find today.
George

So far I compared the plates.
Same thickness 0.25

However, the 821 plate has a cut
out for the hydraulic piping.

<a href="http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c143/georgesauto/?action=view&amp;current=bellplate_zps68cb6d21.jpg" target="_blank"> </a>

I would think the motor would tilt up
when the motor is tightened.

Easiest solution is loosen motor,remove
hydraulic plate, cut spacer plate like 821
and reinstall hydraulic plate.

Yes

I believe you will need to leave the plate on the bell housing so the oil doesn't leak out through the tube from the hydraulic resivoir.

Mark

It looks like my binding with the motor
turning may have been from an axle shaft that was located too close to the end of the bell housing.

I measured the distance from tip of shaft to the
BH on the stationary PU was 1.05".
On my 821 the distance to the Sherman hi/lo was
0.85".

A measure of the depth the clutch pilot bearing
center hole to motor plate is 1".
Therefore I have 0.200" of binding.

Also measured the maximum throw of the throw out
bearing to BH is 0.361
The measure of the depth of the clutch release
fingers is 0.306".
THEY WILL NEVER MEET

My only fix it to try to get deeper clutch pack.
or
WELD A SECOND BEARING TO THE FIRST????
<a href="http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c143/georgesauto/?action=view&amp;current=821ENGINE027_zps6d0fbe28.jpg" target="_blank"></a>

WHAT SUGGESTIONS??????

I would check the thickness of the flywheel and maybe someone else has one apart and could let you know how thick theirs is.

Mark

Sounds like a plan

thanks