John Deere 2010 Hydrualics Problem

CJF1981

Member
I am currently working on fixing the hydraulics on my 1963 Model 2010. I have checked pressure in the hydraulic lines (reads zero) and obviously the 3 pt arms do not lift. When I cleaned out the hydraulic filter, there was a lot of sludge in the bottom. I removed the sludge, and flushed the system. I installed new seals on the hydraulic filter and got new John Deere hydraulic fluid. I checked the hydraulic lines again by installing a guage in the ports with still zero pressure. Also, still no lift on the 3 pt arms as well.

Now, the 3 pt worked when I bought the tractor, but it was slow/sluggish. It eventually went out with a scraper blade on. I have the current parts and service manuals for the tractor. In reviewing them and looking over forums such as this, I believe it is the pump that has failed. I have no power steering as well.

Currently, I have drained the hydraulic fluid, pulled the clutch housing door, and disconnected one of the power steering lines on top of the hydraulic pump. When removing the the throwout lever, I noticed there was no spring connected to the lever. Would this cause any of the problems I have? I"m assuming not bad had to ask before I go further. From the manuals, it looks like you have to split the tractor between the clutch housing and transmission in order to service the pump?

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
 
In all honesty and no offence intended.
Sorry but the 2010 is a pityful peice of crap. That can not be fixed due to numerous design flaws and a shortage of parts.
On behalf of the other posters and readers here. We wish you had checked here before purchasing the 2010 and that we could have stopped the sale.
It's about 50 years past the best before date. time to scrap it and move on.
 
Buickanddeere,

No offense taken. Other than the hydraulics issue, the tractor starts up well, and I've used it to skid logs/pull things. I skidded over 7,000 board feet of hemlock this past year to side my 65 x 40 barn. Some of the logs were 18 feet and over 2 ft in diameter. i bought it several years ago before finding these forums. It is definitely not a popular model as far as John Deere goes. To be honest, I paid 3,000 for the tractor. I spoke to a guy recently that could test the pump and he mentioned he could put a new hydraulic pump in it instead of paying for a rebuilt pump. I assume by what I've tore into and looked thru in the manuals, its not an easy switch to convert to a newer pump. Any thoughts?
 
I own a JD 2010, and everyone is right, it is a piece of junk. Most complicated system on earth, and everything is INSIDE the tractor. I have a JD 2020 also, it"s a very nice easy to work on tractor. I gave up on the 2010. It"s now collecting dust, because I can"t sell it. I can be fixed but it will be hours of labor. More than likely the problem isn"t the pump. Did you make sure the pump is running? You can turn it off down by the foot petal? On mine I got remote working, but the 3 pt. won"t lift anything. Inside the lift it looks like an erector set. I am thinking of just gutting the rear and hooking the hydraulic cylinder up directly to the remote system some how.

Take Care,
Todd
 
I have spent a lot of time working on these tractors in my 43 years with JD. Anytime I had the filter serviced or hyd oil drained, I had to rev the engine wide open and turn and hold steering wheel hard to right or left. I was ALWAYS able to get the hyd,s 'primed' this way. By the way, you can remove the hyd. pump out the bottom without splitting the tractor. I have done it many times.
By the way B&D, this gentleman asked for help with his hyd. problem, not your thoughts on the ownership of the tractor. We had one on our farm and worked well for us.(gas engine). Your fellow CDN.
 
(quoted from post at 00:59:35 01/31/13) Did you make sure the pump is running? You can turn it off down by the foot petal?
Todd

I'll reiterate what Todd asked. Are you sure the pump drive was engaged??? Did you clean filter very well with a cleaning solvent such as carb/brake cleaner??
 
Todd,

Thanks for the reply. I am hoping it is not the pump, but it seems to be pointing that direction. When you say you can turn it off down by the foot petal (you mean on the clutch side?). The manual calls for disconnecting the throwout arm and spring. When I disconnected the throwout arm, I never found a spring even though there is a hole on the outside (below the clutch) for one. I was able to pull the throwout arm as the manual called for. I started working from the access door on the right side of the tractor (below the foot petals) and its a very tight space to work in. I have heard people say the guts are put together like a swiss watch and the parts shown in the instruction manuals verify that.

Chris
 
44 Diesel Tech,

Thanks for the reply. Can you explain how to
remove the hydraulic pump without splitting the
tractor? I have the shortened IT shop service
manual and it doesn't state anything about
splitting the tractor to remove the hydraulic
pump. The John Deere service manual and parts
manuals I have tell you to split the tractor so
that you can disconnect the hyd. pump from the
transmission. I assumed if I get the pump
disconnected, I can pull it thru the clutch
housing cover. Currently, I have one of the power
steering lines disconnected from the top of the
hyd. pump by going thru the access door. I assume
there is another one or two power steering lines I
cannot get to?

Chris
 
Tx Jim,

Thanks for the reply. How do I tell the pump
drive is engaged? None of the service manuals
(at least I didn't see this) mentioned this in the
troubleshooting section. The hydraulic filter was
cleaned with a carb cleaner and looked new when I
reinstalled it. I also got new seals for the
filter.

Chris
 

Parts key # 28 shouldn't be resting on the footrest when pump is engaged.
14374.jpg
 

I had a 2010, not bought new. I found that it was necesary to put in a new hydraulic filter from time to time. Probably the old one could have been cleaned by boiling it in some cleaner, like maybe an ammonia mix, but ordinary cleaning in gasoline was not enough.

KEH
 
Very interesting replies on your 2010 hyd. problem,I have had mine about 25 years now and it's a love/hate tractor. It does sound like a pump problem,the disconect may be the the trouble,the book tells the operater to disconect the pump when starting the tractor in cold weather,one very cold night I found out why,I opened up the throttle after starting it and oil came out the holes for the cult rock shaft,broke the center section in the pump,I could write a book about this tracter! Al
 
Chris
2010 hdy issues.. 1) Make sure the pump is engaged. You could possibly have a bad splined coupilng # 25 in Tx Jim's diagram. 2)Is the micro fabric filter has to be clean, ordinary flushing does not do the job. Test it this way, stand it up in a container and fill it full of oil. If it is slow to run out it is not clean enough..and is likely starving the pump of oil. 3)The last thing is a plug in the oil flow control valve..# 14 in diagram. Sludge in the tranny and gobs of silicone hanging out of the cover on the transmission are major contributors to it being plugged..In early 2010's the valve was located on the front of the transmission housing, next to the elbow that sent the hdy line up to the steering, later models it was built in to the hdy pump as shown in the diagram Jim attached. Check serial # break down on JD parts catalog to see where your's is located. Finally the pump can be taken out IF need be WITH OUT SPLITTING the tractor (20 minute job) if you know the secrets..LOL..Let me know if you need further help. .
PS: Todd sorry to hear you have given up on the tractor.
Jo
 
KEH,

Thanks for the reply. I cleaned the filter out and it looked brand new when I was done. I also got new seals as well.

Chris
 
Does your remote work on the rear of the tractor? If nothing is hooked up to the remote and you pull the lever on the dash for the remote does the motor strain any? If it does the problem is not the pump. The problem is more than likely a relief valve in the system is stuck open or has a broken spring. Had not had time to tear my own tractor apart yet, but I'm sure it's going to be fun. Take Care, Todd
 
Hey CJF,
I'll add my 2-cents. Yes 2010 was the if not the worst tractor Deere ever made it was dam close. Almost nothing was any good on it. Now that being said I have a lot hours working on Deere's including the 2010 and it's been my experence that most of the time there is a complete loss of hydraulics on the 2010 is usually the pump drive/disconnect. Sometimes is easy as a stiff shifter, other times, in fact most of the time your not that lucky and it's the results of the drive only being partly engaged and that the drive stuff is all worn out. Not good news but Good Luck!
John
 
Jo,

Thanks for the response. I will look into all the items you mentioned. I am going to start to make sure the pump is engaged. I mentioned earlier missing the spring that connected to the throwout arm. It seemed oddly loose when I removed the throwout arm. It could be plugged somewhere as well due to the muddy hydraulic fluid that came out when I firsted drained the hydraulic system. I appreciate the checklist. I will go thru each one before I remove the hyd. pump. Can you let me know what the secrets are to removing the pump without splitting the tractor and what needs to be disconnected?

Chris
 
Al,

Thanks for the response. I have had mine for 3 years. I am hoping to have it for awhile as well. I am going to try the pump engage/disconnect option first to see if this corrects the problem. How many times have you had hydraulic issues with your 2010? I don't want this to be a repetitive problem if I get it fixed.

Chris
 
Ok,game on.. LOL.. Referring to Tx Jim's pictorial picture. Release the pump drive # 25 by pushing down on #28 . 1) remove # 33 pin and take out shaft #31. 2)throw a 1" strap down the round hole on the rt side of the case , go under the pump body up over the top of the drive line and back out the hole. Have some one hold the strap ends to hold up pump when you take out the last bolt.. it gets real heavy.LOL. 3)I'm working from memory on which bolts the top 2 are. Remove one of the two out side bolts in the top row of three. It should measure 5" long +/-, if it measures 3" put it back in and go one bolt lower. 4) After you find the first bolt take out the corresponding bolt on the other side. 5)Referring to the picture again take out the 3rd bolt #44.(all 3 bolts are the same length that hold the pump to the case, the other shorter bolts hold the sections of pump together) Now here's the trick.. remove the bolts completely before you try to drop the pump out of the case. With the bolts out it will just come out.. remember to install in the reverse order as U took it out. After you remove the pump it's up to U how far into it you want to go. I took it completely apart and replaced all the rubber seal ect , you can price the parts and see what U want to do. Good luck and more questions please ask.
Jo
Chris This is the way I have described it in the past,this was from a reply to Josh back on 6-24-2012. Enter my name in the search feature on the top of the page and go back to that date to see the complete conversation. ( entry # 82)If you only get one responce click on the show entire topic to see additional conversations between us. E mail is open and I am willing to talk to you on the phone if you have other ?'s. Let me know..
Jo
 
I agree with those that mentioned ensuring the pump is engaged. If the shifter shaft is missing its spring the pump may not be engaged. I would try rotating the shifter shaft counter clockwise (toward the front of the tractor I think). Use a bunge cord or something similar to hold it there then test you hydraulics. (make sure you have the all the hyd / power steering lines connected) This shaft is discussed on page 190-5-1 in the service manual. I had mine apart a few months ago and it is still pretty fresh in my mind.

-Paul
 
Chris,
I don't have a parts book handy but the drive coupling and the shaft ends get rounded off. Sometimes I would see the fork worn through where people would try to keep it engaged by bunggies or tyeing it with rope. I don't think you can find those parts from Deere anymore, but may be available from some short line vendors. Used stuff is difficult to find that's any good. They all have the same issues, but you might get lucky. How good is the rest of the tractor. if it's got other problems you may want to bail out because you'll never get your money out of this tractor. Good Luck!
John
 
John,

No other problems on the tractor I am aware of. I just need the hydraulics to work, but the engine so far is fine. I've attached a picture of the tractor. Needs some paint and some body work.

Chris
 
Jo,

I went back to the old post and reviewed it. If I get stuck or need more direction, I will contact you. Thank you for the help.

Chris
 
Chris
One thing I forgot to mention is if the valve has crud in it be sure to flush out the galleys that supply oil to it.To do that pull the coil wire so the tractor wont start and roll it over so the pump purges the galleys. You will get a bath in oil, so hold a rag over the hole the valve came out of.. good luck..
Jo
 
(quoted from post at 15:45:14 01/31/13) Ok,game on.. LOL.. Referring to Tx Jim's pictorial picture. Release the pump drive # 25 by pushing down on #28 . 1) remove # 33 pin and take out shaft #31. 2)throw a 1" strap down the round hole on the rt side of the case , go under the pump body up over the top of the drive line and back out the hole. Have some one hold the strap ends to hold up pump when you take out the last bolt.. it gets real heavy.LOL. 3)I'm working from memory on which bolts the top 2 are. Remove one of the two out side bolts in the top row of three. It should measure 5" long +/-, if it measures 3" put it back in and go one bolt lower. 4) After you find the first bolt take out the corresponding bolt on the other side. 5)Referring to the picture again take out the 3rd bolt #44.(all 3 bolts are the same length that hold the pump to the case, the other shorter bolts hold the sections of pump together) Now here's the trick.. remove the bolts completely before you try to drop the pump out of the case. With the bolts out it will just come out.. remember to install in the reverse order as U took it out. After you remove the pump it's up to U how far into it you want to go. I took it completely apart and replaced all the rubber seal ect , you can price the parts and see what U want to do. Good luck and more questions please ask.
Jo
Chris This is the way I have described it in the past,this was from a reply to Josh back on 6-24-2012. Enter my name in the search feature on the top of the page and go back to that date to see the complete conversation. ( entry # 82)If you only get one responce click on the show entire topic to see additional conversations between us. E mail is open and I am willing to talk to you on the phone if you have other ?'s. Let me know..
Jo
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top