I have a 65' 2010 that I am putting a ford 703 series loader on. I have a pto pump but the tractor is used for cutting grass mainly. I would like to plumb the loader into the tractor and dont mind using the rear remotes. my question is do the loaders pressure and return lines need to be plugged into a certain scv valve? also, I have a junction block in each line (lines that run to the rear scv) that has pipe plugs in them, could I tie into these blocks? it seems it would be the same as using the scv connections to me. thanks
- Thread starter noshow
- Start date
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
Why tie up the scv's and cobble a bungy cord on there when
an open Center loader valve can be installed in series with the
scv valve supply line?
In all honesty , I can't recommend spending any time and
money on any 2010 or a diesel 1010.
an open Center loader valve can be installed in series with the
scv valve supply line?
In all honesty , I can't recommend spending any time and
money on any 2010 or a diesel 1010.
b&D I see every post on the 2010 and guess alot of people dont like em. mine was grandpas! he has put a clutch in it and it is almost to 8500hrs and will fire up before the pistons make a 1/2 a revolution, I'll keep it. anyhow, can you explain that a little more. Are you saying that I should use the junction blocks that way I can still use the remotes? in series? does this mean to tie both into the same line running to the rear remotes?
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
Take the supply line to the scv and run it instead into the
loader valve inlet. Take a line from the loader valve outlet to
the scv inlet.
There should be a relief valve in the loader controls set to
what ever the 2010 is rated for . I can"t recall if the early 2010"s
were 1200psi and later 2250psi or what they were. There
needs to be a 3rd line from the loader control valve that flows
back to the oil sump if the relief valve opens.
I can understand nostelga and all that so go ahead and
enjoy.
loader valve inlet. Take a line from the loader valve outlet to
the scv inlet.
There should be a relief valve in the loader controls set to
what ever the 2010 is rated for . I can"t recall if the early 2010"s
were 1200psi and later 2250psi or what they were. There
needs to be a 3rd line from the loader control valve that flows
back to the oil sump if the relief valve opens.
I can understand nostelga and all that so go ahead and
enjoy.
B&D thanks for helping out. Im still not exactly following you 100%. you said "take a line from a loader valve outlet to a scv the scv valve inlet" (so are you saying any line from the loader valve that is going to a cylinder can be tee'd and I can run it to a "T'' in the line coming into the remote control valve box)? you never really say where you should put in second line so I am assuming this is the loader valve inlet and would come from the junction box in the line after the remote control valve box that feeds the scv connection? LAST, the third line you mention from the loaders valve control! would this be the actual return line from the valves return port? sorry just not quite sure im completely following you or if I am at all.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
no show
The loader hyd valve needs to be inserted in the scv supply line IE the oil from the hyd pump needs to flow THROUGH the loader valve to the scv. Hence the name open-center hyd's.
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
Not even close
The pump, relief valve, loader control valve, scv and rockshaft valves will all be in series.
Do you know the difference between and open and closed Center hydraulic system?
The loader control valve will either have six ports and there will be a dedicated relief valve between the pump outlet and the first hydraulic control valve.
Or there will be seven ports on the loader control valve. Pressure in from the pump,pressure out to the scv . A port for boom up, a port for boom down, a port for bucket dump, a port for bucket curl. A port from the relief valve back to the hydraulic sump.
Since I avoid 2010's it's been a while since looking at one. Another way of plumbing would be to.....There must be a relief valve in the Scv and rockshaft valves. Taking oil downstream from either one of those two valves with the relief would protect the tractor's pump.
A picture would be worth a thousand words here.
here is what is confusing me. Alot of people run 2010's etc. just plugging into the rear remotes and they work for years! the way I read your post your saying this dont work because I have to tun the loader control valve between the pump and the remote control valve! is this what your meaning?
B&D I dont have a pic right now. this loader is actually a self contained unit and the loader valve is open center. I want to use the tractors hyd. system though instead of my pto pump. the remote control valve does have a relief valve on it. I believe my loader valve is a 6 port and yes! 4 ports for the loader cylinders and the in and out?
and NO, I know nothing about hydraulics (built a log splitter that works and thats the extent of it)
this loader came off a old oliver, it is a ford 19-97 (which is double acting) 703 series loader. the oliver used the pto pump and the control valve that is with the loader now. so I assume it would be hooked up allready to the loader control valves relief port. Now, since folks run off the rear remotes anyways I dont see why I couldnt just run from the two junction blocks that are tapped as they are the same lines that feed the rear remotes but is 2 feet closer and will keep hoses out of the way. Why is this not good, if it isnt?
this loader came off a old oliver, it is a ford 19-97 (which is double acting) 703 series loader. the oliver used the pto pump and the control valve that is with the loader now. so I assume it would be hooked up allready to the loader control valves relief port. Now, since folks run off the rear remotes anyways I dont see why I couldnt just run from the two junction blocks that are tapped as they are the same lines that feed the rear remotes but is 2 feet closer and will keep hoses out of the way. Why is this not good, if it isnt?
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
I wasn't trying to imply that a 2 spool valve plugged into the scv's wouldn't work because it will and on a 2010 th=attaching to the scv might be the easiest way. I was just trying to clarify what b&d was stating. If you chose not to attach to scv then go to JDparts.com and download parts catalog #827 - 36 Farm Loader,then go to pages 24 & 25 it will show you how to plumb an independent valve. Sorry I don't know how to post photo in PDF.
gotcha thanks!! I have been looking at the catalog and the remote cap is drilled and tapped, is this part sold cause I cant bring it up? wonder if the original could be drilled and tapped?
Last question and I do appreciate yalls help. like I stated, the two remote lines have "T" blocks (which have pipe plugs in them of course so they arent spraying fluid every where) in them this would be just the same as connecting to the rear remote connections and would be the cheapest and easiest way as all I would have to do is screw my lines in. what are the cons of this? slow loader or? i understand I would have to tie my scv control handle back which I dont care
Last question and I do appreciate yalls help. like I stated, the two remote lines have "T" blocks (which have pipe plugs in them of course so they arent spraying fluid every where) in them this would be just the same as connecting to the rear remote connections and would be the cheapest and easiest way as all I would have to do is screw my lines in. what are the cons of this? slow loader or? i understand I would have to tie my scv control handle back which I dont care
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
Seems all well and good until wanting to use the
scv"s and the loader. Seems to happen right after
installing the loader.......
You need to plumb into the tractor hydraulics
without creating a path direct back to the sump
by-passing the scv and rockshaft valves.
It"s not going to cost any extra to plumb the
loader and leave the scv"s available. Than it will
cost to just plug into the scv"s.
Loader speed and operation will be improved to
some degree when connected direct vs. through the
scv"s.
What ever you do, don"t dead head the pump
without a relief valve. The $$$ pump will twist
into little bitty broken non replaceable pieces.
scv"s and the loader. Seems to happen right after
installing the loader.......
You need to plumb into the tractor hydraulics
without creating a path direct back to the sump
by-passing the scv and rockshaft valves.
It"s not going to cost any extra to plumb the
loader and leave the scv"s available. Than it will
cost to just plug into the scv"s.
Loader speed and operation will be improved to
some degree when connected direct vs. through the
scv"s.
What ever you do, don"t dead head the pump
without a relief valve. The $$$ pump will twist
into little bitty broken non replaceable pieces.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Farmer Zeb. parts key #11 c-14656c must have been an option from JD. I have one one my 2010 ru. It was on it when I aquired the tractor. It is the top plate on the hydraulic control valve and is drilled and tapped for 3/8 npt to connect the loader.
turklilley
Member
Not all 2010's were bad, I had one for 30 years with a 46A loader on it. It did not have an easy life. It would start on the coldest days. Only reason I traded was because I needed 4 wheel drive to feed in winter.
If my memory is right, there is a port on the Hydraulic Valve under the dash to plumb a loader valve.
If my memory is right, there is a port on the Hydraulic Valve under the dash to plumb a loader valve.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
I agree using scv's on the 2010 to operate the loader is much simpler that drilling and tapping threads especially for someone not familiar with hydraulics.
I agree using scv's on the 2010 to operate the loader is much simpler that drilling and tapping threads especially for someone not familiar with hydraulics.[/quote]
Tx Jim,
do you remember if parts key #11 was a Deere supplied item or was it a modification of the std remote valve cover drilled and tapped at the dealership if a loader was installed
Tx Jim,
do you remember if parts key #11 was a Deere supplied item or was it a modification of the std remote valve cover drilled and tapped at the dealership if a loader was installed
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
The part you referred to is a JD part. 2010's were about as unique to attach a loader valve to as the 820/830 & early model 2040's that were also open-center hyd's.
"pic is worth a 1000 words" does anyone have one haha. think im more confused now. just looked at tractor and under the dash I the 2010 has 2 lines coming from the pump and both go the the steering coulum, one of them (where left foot would be) has a "T" on it with another line going to the "in" on the remote control valve. the ones going into the steering also have two coming out that run to each side of the steering pump, the steering pump also has a line in the center that runs back under dash that looks to be a return line maybe? then of course the line that runs to the remote valve also has the two lines that run to the rear to the scv.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
noshow
Just plumb loader into scv's,bungee cord the scv control handle one way or the other and drive on. As I previously stated trying to plumb a loader valve in the hyd system on a JD 2010 bypassing the scv's isn't for people that are not "VERY KNOWLEDGEABLE" in hydraulics :wink:
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