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Touch-O-Matic control quadrant assembly model M

S

snow fighter

New User
Could use some help from anyone who has replaced seal(s) in the control lever assembly.
Had the Valve housing and Rockshaft housing off the tractor today and replaced the main gasket between the two units. That went good but also wanted to replace the seal(s) in the control assembly because that seems to be leaking too.
I got it down to the friction disk just before the control lever but couldn't figure out how to go any further. the seal(s) are beyond the lever and attached shaft
Have the shop manual but doesn't go into much detail .
So, the question is , there is a pin that holds it in place, in order to replace the seal must be you have to somehow get to it from inside the valve housing ?
Thanks
 
In order to remove the control lever you must first remove the cover at the front of the TOM unit. Once that is off you can get in there and remove the small pin that holds the lever shaft to the control mechanism. When you're going back together make sure the pin fits tightly. The pin in mine worked out once and rendered the hitch inoperable.

One little hint about the seal on the lever shaft. The one Deere will sell you is the original leather seal but I've had poor luck getting the system back together without damaging it. (There is also a dish-shaped metal retainer that you'll probably want to replace as well.) I replaced the leather seal with an appropriately sized o-ring and it hasn't leaked a drop since.
 
Very good info, and that seal tip could save some aggravation later.
Thank you !

Another issue that popped up is when removing the pump unit and rockshaft housing
the suction line at the rockshaft housing basically fell out of the unit.
Apparently someone before me attempted some repair on it and there was a couple different kinds of gasket sealer in there, one hard and one silicone. They used so much of the stuff that it practically plugged the connector.The end of the pipe has no flare on it, just straight. Thats odd, ahahaha.
Anyhow, it wasn't leaking before but it is now.
Open to any suggestions including trying my own gasket material fix or
getting the pipe flared.
 
I would just try and find a new or used pipe. A bunch of people
sell them new and you can almost always find them on ebay used
and in good shape. If you have it apart this far you might as well
fix it up right is my thought.

For used try:
Dave Cook Tractor Parts
Rusty Acres Ranch

New try:
Sharps Tractor
Dave Cook
Steiner Tractor

Last time I checked this website does not sell them new or used.
 
You should replace all the soft parts while you're in there. Very little extra cost or work.

The pipe just uses a compression seal. Can't believe anyone would fill it with silicone & chance ruining the valves just to keep from spending a couple bucks at Deere for a seal.
 
(quoted from post at 16:34:23 11/10/12) I would just try and find a new or used pipe. A bunch of people
sell them new and you can almost always find them on ebay used
and in good shape. If you have it apart this far you might as well
fix it up right is my thought.

For used try:
Dave Cook Tractor Parts
Rusty Acres Ranch

New try:
Sharps Tractor
Dave Cook
link_disallowed

Last time I checked this website does not sell them new or used.
Click to expand...

I could be wrong and the pipe at the housing isn't suppose to be flared.
One for sale on ebay appears to be a straight pipe too, no flare at the housing end.
The parts catalog picture at JD is hard to tell but looks like it could be flared.
If it isn't flared than would be curious how its suppose to mechanically seal at the connector in the housing, missing something here.
 
A compression fitting would make sense , thats not on the parts list unless its part of the connector itself.
I"m going to look at it again and see if i can get some of the hard and soft gasket material off the connector.
Thanks a bunch !
 
Pages 60.5 & 60.6 of the parts files. One line uses a flare or ferrule and one uses a seal. (rubber sleeve) M 564 T is the seal for tractors up to 32883. M 1162 T is the seal for tractors after that. $4 for the first & $5.75 for the latter. A stack of O rings or quad rings would probably work just as well (but cost more) as long as the overall dimensions were close to those specified at JDPARTS for the seals.
 
(quoted from post at 05:15:59 11/11/12) Pages 60.5 & 60.6 of the parts files. One line uses a flare or ferrule and one uses a seal. (rubber sleeve) M 564 T is the seal for tractors up to 32883. M 1162 T is the seal for tractors after that. $4 for the first & $5.75 for the latter. A stack of O rings or quad rings would probably work just as well (but cost more) as long as the overall dimensions were close to those specified at JDPARTS for the seals.
Click to expand...

You are right, it is a rubber seal. I reached in there yesterday with needle nose pliers and pulled out what was left of a rubber seal. This is what i thought looked like different kinds of gasket material , piece was in rough shape.
I'm glad you looked that part # up for me because i was about to order the wrong one. (I owe you one)
I can't tell from the sleeve i pulled out but the rubber sleeve must/ suppose to fit over
the end of the pipe.
Really appreciate the help here. !
 
new gaskets and seals and we are up and running.
No leaks anywhere !
Ready to plow snow.
However , problems i had:
The guadrant lever knob, that black knob you pull on that raises the drawbar was rusted
on bad so that got busted up getting it off.
The seal retainer on the quadrant lever shaft will get disfigured getting it out so plan on replacing that too.
What is called a seal on the suction line at the rockshaft housing comes in at JD called a bushing
and it works.
Good luck with yours !
 
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