More pictures of the oliver rollover after adjustments

It's gonna work. I just need to drill 4 more holes
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All I need now is a 3x8 cylinder. I was going to get it today but I forgot. I was doing stuff I needed to do instead of stuff I wanted to do.
PS, you just won't believe how many things on a plow mash smash or bring blood. :roll:
I sure could have used some help. this stuff is heavy.
 
Looks live a 6341 plow. We sold several of those here in flat Northwest Ohio. FYI for you. When you get your cylinder you may want to add restrictors to each port. Oliver recommended this to control the speed of the roll over. Can you lift the plow?
 
(quoted from post at 02:47:59 12/23/12) Looks live a 6341 plow. We sold several of those here in flat Northwest Ohio. FYI for you. When you get your cylinder you may want to add restrictors to each port. Oliver recommended this to control the speed of the roll over. Can you lift the plow?

I have two other threads here about the plow. It is a 6241 not a 6341. Yes I can lift it easily.
Thanks for the heads up about the restrictors. I have them on my Ford. It rolled WAY too fast.
 
Allen I have a few questions??? Why did you have to drill any holes??? I have switched 5 or 6 Oliver/White plows from one width to another and it was just moving things to the correct bolt holes that where already in the plow beam. In you first posting before you had done anything you showed the top of the beam and it had the three sets of holes that usually adjusted them from 14,16,18 inches.

Also on the regular plows I adjusted you left the front plow bottom alone and moved each one back closer. It looks like you did it the other way. Is this because it is a roll over plow? or did you go the wrong way???

Maybe Delta Red can answer me as he has had roll over plows for years. I always wanted one but they are not very common around here.

One local dealer did have a fully mounted six bottom roll over. He got it in a dealer close out deal and had to take all the new equipment the other dealer had. We never did figure out what kind of tractor would pick it up. We tried a White 2-180/MFWD with a full set of front end weights and it would stand straight up. He finally just used all the bottom parts off of it a scraped the rest of it.
 
Did those plows take an "Ace Bottom" plowshare? I have an old plow that I am sure was Cockshutt and parts of it look identical(not a rollover)
 
(quoted from post at 16:17:12 12/23/12) Allen I have a few questions??? Why did you have to drill any holes??? I have switched 5 or 6 Oliver/White plows from one width to another and it was just moving things to the correct bolt holes that where already in the plow beam. In you first posting before you had done anything you showed the top of the beam and it had the three sets of holes that usually adjusted them from 14,16,18 inches.

Also on the regular plows I adjusted you left the front plow bottom alone and moved each one back closer. It looks like you did it the other way. Is this because it is a roll over plow? or did you go the wrong way???

Maybe Delta Red can answer me as he has had roll over plows for years. I always wanted one but they are not very common around here.

One local dealer did have a fully mounted six bottom roll over. He got it in a dealer close out deal and had to take all the new equipment the other dealer had. We never did figure out what kind of tractor would pick it up. We tried a White 2-180/MFWD with a full set of front end weights and it would stand straight up. He finally just used all the bottom parts off of it a scraped the rest of it.

Ok, this plow does have the holes for 14,16 and 18 inches. To make the adjustments (the way it is designed to be made) only the front and rear bottoms are moved. In my case I couldn't get the bottoms to fit my tire spacing so I moved the front bottom to the holes for the 14 inch spacing but I put them INSIDE the holes and that moved the front bottom 8 inches toward the center of the plow. I have to drill two additional holes to bolt the bottom to the frame. The middle bottom was moved to the inside holes also so I have to drill holes for it also. that move it 4 inches toward center. I left the rear where it was. I think another picture is in order. BRB
 
JD,Those Olivers you left the 2nd bottom alone and adjusred the others to it to get the correct 'width'.The frame is drilled to accomdate that.Tractor wheels are moved to the correct width.What Allen did was to redrill the holes in order to move the plow bottoms over to avoid moveing the tractor wheels.That 'long' Oliver frame makes it possible to reposition the bottoms.As to the 6 bottom????Lots of 5 and 6 bottoms are used here.There is even a 7 bottom here that is pulled by a newer Agco/Allis MFWD.The owner is talking about adding another bottom....
 
"What Allen did was to redrill the holes in order to move the plow bottoms over to avoid moveing the tractor wheels"

Bingo!! Why didn't I say that? I "could" move my wheels out but it's a pain in the rear and I didn't wanna. :D

I guess I should comment on the 'torched off" place at the front of the frame. The previous owner had welded a frame to pull a packer. I ain't gonna pull a packer and it added about another 150 pounds to the plow. this thing is already pretty heavy. I'll grind it nice and pretty before I am done. You'll never know it was there.
 
Allen,fix/replace that bent bolt on the
standard.that helps hold things together.For shear
bolts'use grade 5.use a 'nylock'nut on it.they will
come loose otherwise and shear faster because the
beam/side plates will tend to separate if not kept
tight.
 
I would buy shear bolts a dozen or so at a time.I mounted a small toolbox on the 'headstock'.kept bolts/nuts;wrench,ratchet/socket;tapered punch;hammer,etc.Carried a sledgehammer in the cab.Even when the 'tripped' bottom was returned to 'home',it always require a few raps with the sledge.
 
(quoted from post at 19:40:53 12/23/12) I would buy shear bolts a dozen or so at a time.I mounted a small toolbox on the 'headstock'.kept bolts/nuts;wrench,ratchet/socket;tapered punch;hammer,etc.Carried a sledgehammer in the cab.Even when the 'tripped' bottom was returned to 'home',it always require a few raps with the sledge.

Ok replace the shear bolts. got it. Grade 5 and nylocks Got it!

Got the cylinder, hoses and couplings today. still need a restrictor. Getting there.
 
Well Steve that makes sense now. I see what Allen is doing.

On that set of plow that where around here. They where The same as a White 588 plow but fully mounted 6 bottoms. They had the dished rolling coulters on the top and bottom gangs. Plus they where auto reset as well. They where HEAVY. We took them and weighted them on a scale. They weight 8800 lbs. We did plow with them one time with another friend's JD 8770 4wd. It handled them as far as lifting them but it really needed an onland hitch to work correctly. It was a shame as these plows where BRAND new. They never plowed more than 5-6 acres of ground. I finally helped him find other plow frames with bad bottoms and used up the right hand stuff. The left hand coulters where the same as the rights with just the coulter bolted on flipped. We used the standards and made two plows auto reset. All of the left hand parts and the roll over frame we advertised and never sold any of it. We finally hauled all of it to the scrap yard. The moldboards, shins, and points where same as new. Sold them all for scrap. To maybe help you feel a little better this was in 1989. So it has been a long time ago.

Looking back I should have bought them and just cut them down to a set of 4 or 5 bottoms and used them. I would still like to have a set to maintain terraces.
 
(quoted from post at 11:10:21 12/24/12) Coulters to be added later?
I went to tremendous effort to add all of the coulters to the Ford. Don't really need them here. Not a lot of trash to cut through. Not sure I'll add the coulters to this plow. If I happen to run across some, I may use them.
I had to build a couple of things on the Ford because they were no longer available. I'll post a few pics later of those thing.
 

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