Questions on plowing with a 2 or 3 bottom with a WD

Will Herring

Well-known Member
Okay, I have two plow options for my WD -- 2 bottom on wheels, or a 3 bottom mounted. Just wanting to plow my garden spot -- have never plowed before, myself. The tires on the tractor are spun out halfway. Rather use the 2 bottom because it's easier to hitch and use, but can use the mounted 3 bottom if need be.

Do I need to spin my tires in or out to plow (or does it depend on which plow), or can I get away with them in the middle?

What gear should I plow in? 2nd gear 2/3 throttle?

The idea is to put your right rear wheel into the furrow on each pass, right?
 
Since gardens are usually smaller I would prefer the mounted plow for maneuverability and I would convert it to a 2 bottom if possible. When you bring the plow in and out of the ground the ends will be neater. As for the wheel spacing that depends on whether you have a 14" plow or a 16"plow. You put your right side wheel in the furrow for every pass except the first one where there will be no furrow.
 
You will also need a disk other wise you will have a mess you can not deal with since once plowed the ground is very uneven so you have to disk it back flat
 
Most any WD I ever saw with plow had the rear wheels spun all the way in, or nearly so.
I agree the mounted plow would be handier for a garden.
Second gear is a good gear to start out in also.
 

1st, if they are both rusty, you will make a mess...!!!
2nd, the WD is a perfect match for the 3x14" mounted plow..
It IS easier to mount it if it has been converted to "Snap-Coupler" and it IS advised that you do...
The rear wheels should be run IN not sure if it is "ALL the WAY"..might be to the last narrow setting before "all the way in"... the way..
I like to run them IN and install the "Stop" and let them turn out against the "Stop"..
It is a good idea to move the rear wheels once in a while..Oil the eccentrics before you try to turn them and turn the Top one first..it will be easier than the ones with weight on them..
Use 1st gear for a garden..2nd for larger fields..
On the 1st trip across the garden (Field?), set the adjusting crank for plowing Deeper on the 1st pass...
That is set deeper by looking back, from the seat and turning the crank Clockwise about 8 or 10 turns..shortening the length of the top support..
Once you have made the 1st pass and now have an open Furrow, re-set the crank (Counter-Clockwise looking back from the seat) to where it was..assuming it was about correct, in the 1st place..
You will need to have set the hydraulics for "Weight Transfer" on the Rt side of the tractor and it is very easy to do..
I hope someone on here can post a photo of the Decal that would be on the Battery Box that describes it..
Ron..
 
Definatly take that rear bottom of the 3 bottom if it is a WD and NOT a WD45. Uncle had a WD and 3 bottom, not sure what size bottoms he had but it is what they sold him with the WD new. He always had the third bottom off because he could not pull it. Anouther uncle had a WD and 3-12" plow that he was getting along with, slightly different ground, till it burnt up in a barn fire. Got a different WD and it came with 3-14" and watching him try to plow if he would get it to depth he could not pull it and was having to steer with the brakes all the time. He only had that outfit a couple of years till he sold out and sold the small farm. Anouther neighbor pulled 3 bottoms with the 45 and got along deecent. Then the Uncle that had the first mentioned tractor was sick one spring and neighbors and church came in to get crops in. One had a 45 with the 4 bottom plow that he used at home, when he got here and droped the plow he was setting, could not begin to move it. The WD does not have enough power for a 3 bottom plow. Neighbor a few miles away had a 45 and all they could pull was a 2 bottom.
 
look at this film:
you have a machine to be proud of, use that pickup plow first and give it good try,

AC made great plows and they were easy to hookup and unhook.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYH3q9nJ-fc&feature=related
 
Place a board, around 12ft long, a 2 X 4 will do AGAINST THE INNER SIDE OF THE RIGHT REAR WHEEL. It should line up with the outside edge of your front shear.

Someone with more knowledge might mention the guidelines for the rolling cutters. I place mine so that they are at least an inch lower than the bottom of the share, and so the the back edge is around 2in away from the share. at any point.

You say you have a disc. John Deere said a field/garden should be thourly disced BEFORE being plowed. After plowing, disc again.

I suppose, depending where your at, and the condition of your soil, BUT down here, in okieland, I disc, and plow in the fall, and dont do anything else till spring. That way the ground catches any rain/snow, and holds it in place. Pour downs dont cause it to wash like it would if it was plowed and disced. I have sandy loam soil.

Dad had a 37 WC, which he pulled a 2 14 that he said was a hard pull in NE Kans a mile from the Mo river. HILLY ground and never committed about it not being able to pull it, AND that with steel wheels. Id think a WD could pull a 2 16, if not a 3 14 in the same ground. WITH RUBBER TIRES

To measure which size shares you have, take a ruler, and measure from the back of the gfront share, at the bottom to the land side at the other share. It will be 12, 14 or 16.
As said, IF your shares/moldboard is rusty, it will do a lousy job. Brush the heck out of them with a wire brush, Then spray like WF 45 on them. Do the same thing for 3 days, and then try them out on DRY land. Iff the land is damp, try spraying the sharews and moldboard with paint, and let it dry good, then try plowing. THIS AFTER THE ABOVE BRUSHING AND SPRAYING WITH WD 45
Good luck.
 

I am Positive now, having thought about it...

The WD rear wheels, for a 3x14 mounted plow should be set at the 1st location out, from all the way in.."
That is the place between the 2 holes, for the "Stops"..one inside and one outside the wheel eccentric..when you are done..

Ron..
 
(quoted from post at 19:57:53 10/07/12)
I am Positive now, having thought about it...

The WD rear wheels, for a 3x14 mounted plow should be set at the 1st location out, from all the way in.."
That is the place between the 2 holes, for the "Stops"..one inside and one outside the wheel eccentric..when you are done..

Ron..

Excellent! Just what I needed to know! I just got done doing a first pass of discing tonight. Hoping it will rain a bit before I try and go plow next weekend. Then maybe get a chance to disc her over again before the snows hit.

The land I am plowing is flat pasture that has been unused (and not driven on) in many years. Just wanting to put in a garden. Fortunately, I have plenty of space around it, so maneuvering is not an issue.
 

I have to wonder if your soil was one of the reasons they developed the Slatted Plow..??

Must be some very Dense or Sticky soil...

Ron..
 

Clay can be a funny soil, too. The old Late Styled JD "B" tractors we had (still have one) usually could manage 2nd gear with 2x14" 7" deep..but, in "perfect Conditions" (about once in a dozen Blue Moons) could idle right along in 4th in that same soil..
That was odd, as I never had much luck running 3rd with them...
Then, there is the old Yellow Wax, that is like Peanut-butter mixed with contact cement...
That would pull those JD "B"'s down to their ever-lastings, in 2nd gear.. hard enough that the Clutch would sometimes get kicked-out by the plow hitch..you know..the one the causes the Clutch Handle to BASH your Knee-Cap..???
EVERYONE should have that experience..(just ONCE)..!!
Ron..
 
Pulled 2-12" plows with the 49 John Deere B, always in 3rd., same with the 46 B, only in first but still as fast as the 49 in third, and 41 Farmall H, also in third, and 44 Ford 2N. Would still rather have a 12" over a 14" and definatly over a 16" that we also later had. The 50 AR and 51 A pulled 3-12". Had a Ferguson 30 with 2-14" for a while, did not like that 14" so used a JD no. 52 2-12" plow behind that Ferguson that got traded in on the 51 A.
 

I just never felt that the 2-Cylinder tractors made a person tired as quick as the 4 and 6 cylinder tractors...
They almost "Talked" to ya..changing exhaust note
at any change in load..
Raking Hay, the JD "B" would almost "Cackle" once in a while...
I certainly would not have wanted to be plowing-down Corn Fodder with a 12" plow...the 14" plugged-up bad enough and the 16" (here) plugged even less..
Ron..
 
Actually we never had too much of a problem with corn stalks. Always chopped the stocks and we always ran the Yetter coulters.
 

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