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Help Identify Old Bushog

A

ARHunter

Member
I am trying to figure out what model Bushog this is. I know it is probably at least 40-50 yrs old. Any help would be appreaciated.

Also, the input shaft seal leaks and I have read you can fill these gear boxes with grease. Would it be better to do that or fix the seal? Thanks



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(quoted from post at 15:48:17 09/23/12) What size is it? If it is 5 foot it could be a model 12
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It is 5 foot. I think it may be a model 12 just wasn't sure. What about putting grease in the gear box. Any opinions on this?
 
I agree with [b:654c4848f0]the real roger[/b:654c4848f0] that it is a 5ft Model 12 mower.

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/jameslloydhowell/?action=view¤t=IMG_2780.jpg" target="_blank">
IMG_2780.jpg" width="650" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

Got one just like it down by the equipment shed.
 
You can use Corn Head Grease that is available from Deere.

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/jameslloydhowell/John%20Deere%20Equipment/Easy%20and%20No%205%20Mower/?action=view&current=IMG_1514.jpg" target="_blank">
IMG_1514.jpg" width="650" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

Used it to stop a leak on the JD #5 sickle mower.

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/jameslloydhowell/John%20Deere%20Equipment/Easy%20and%20No%205%20Mower/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_1515.jpg" target="_blank">
IMG_1515.jpg" width="650" border="0" alt="Photobucket
</a>

Used it a couple of weeks ago to stop a leak on the 7ft Corsicana rotary cutter.

Hope this helps.
 

Thanks for all your help. I can change the seal on the input shaft, but if the thin grease will work and not leak that would be a much easier solution :) .
 
Besides the surface rust, it sure looks like it had an easy life and that is definitely an older gearbox judging by the looks. I can't believe how straight the deck is, not even a circle imprint from the blades like most eventually get.

See what info you can get off it, might find literature for it on ebay or similar.

There was a post on here about Grease vs 80W-90WT oil in these, my old Rhino SE-6 actually called for 0 or 00 which is heavier than 80W-90, less viscous and almost like track roller lube which is a stringy tacky type lube, almost reminds me of chainsaw bar oil.

Someone made a point about grease that I thought was good, I would not use it, unless nothing else was available, fix the seal and used the appropriate lube, its designed for splash lube applications which is what the differential/gearbox is. One of the reasons I would prefer to use the heavier oils is for maintenance, mixing greases and oils, incompatible soap bases and whatever else, has the potential to make a mess, when I want to change the oil on mine, I flip it over, drain it, and refill with Lucas 80W-90 or whatever grade, (I forget at the moment) but is stays clean and does not leak, I'm sure the seal has plenty of miles on it too !
 
(quoted from post at 17:50:54 09/24/12) Besides the surface rust, it sure looks like it had an easy life and that is definitely an older gearbox judging by the looks. I can't believe how straight the deck is, not even a circle imprint from the blades like most eventually get.

See what info you can get off it, might find literature for it on ebay or similar.

There was a post on here about Grease vs 80W-90WT oil in these, my old Rhino SE-6 actually called for 0 or 00 which is heavier than 80W-90, less viscous and almost like track roller lube which is a stringy tacky type lube, almost reminds me of chainsaw bar oil.

Someone made a point about grease that I thought was good, I would not use it, unless nothing else was available, fix the seal and used the appropriate lube, its designed for splash lube applications which is what the differential/gearbox is. One of the reasons I would prefer to use the heavier oils is for maintenance, mixing greases and oils, incompatible soap bases and whatever else, has the potential to make a mess, when I want to change the oil on mine, I flip it over, drain it, and refill with Lucas 80W-90 or whatever grade, (I forget at the moment) but is stays clean and does not leak, I'm sure the seal has plenty of miles on it too !
Click to expand...



Yeah, I guess I should go ahead and replace the seal. It shouldn't be too much trouble.

It seems to be in fairly good condition except for the deck being cracked in a couple of spots where the front vertical bars connect. I beefed that area up with some 2"x2" angle iron. Replaced the bearings and seals in the tail wheel hub and put on a new tail wheel. Used it all day last Saturday and never had a problem.
 
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