Case 1370 no reverse

I have a case 1370 serial # 874.... Bought this last year as she sat for better then 20 years. Ended up replacing all fluids and filters. After replacing both hydraulic pumps cause they were worn out, and having the relief valve rebuilt I hooks the disk up for a test run. Worked great for a few hours, and decided to hooked the 5-16's last night. First pass down no issues, but when I made the flip and dropped the plows the arms worked normal, but the rear outlet wouldn't. It had more then normal pressure on both up and down positions and after moving the handle back and forth several times, it worked. This issue repeated each end of the field for several rounds. Then I had to back up the tractor, and found that I have no reverse in any range now. The four speed seems to grind more then normal now also. I unhooked the plows and drove it home down the road with it shifting in forward gears without a issue. Does anyone have any ideas????

All i can add is you are throttling down to back arent you?They will not go in reverse with throttle at full rpm.

Yes, I idle it down.....

20 years with old fluid may have deteriated/weakened the clutch facings or brakes. Your recent use may have broken them loose. Linings may be plugging up your new filters and screens. Can you hear a humming sound under the belly.. like a pump starving for suction? No reverse and grindings, I would look for pressure/flow issues.

No abnormal noises that I'm aware of. However, with the luck I've had with this tractor, pads coming off wouldn't surprise me.

Also, both wheel brakes work as brand new.....

Hi Dave, I like that tractor no. your using. Back to your problem, no rev. means you lost C4 in your PS and that also explains the grinding when trying to shift. There are numerous items both hyd. and mechanical that can cause this. If you know someone in your area that is familar with testing the PS I would suggest that. This could be a simple problem or internal one requiring a lot of labor. A complete test would tell you what needs to be done. Trying to explain all the possibilities on this site is difficult for me and could drive us both crazy. Rod.

Dave1370 may I ask what type of oil you used in the change.

i bought a cherry 1370 about 6 years ago changed oil to what i was using for the other tractors and within 50 hrs lost every fiber disc in the tractor.

The detergent in the oil eat the glue that held the fiber disks in place.

The oil I used is considered a premium oil and a lot of people use it locally for their deere's without trouble.

Dave if you have no luck in finding out what is wrong you can call me. Thats easier that trying to figure out a solution online. I'll email a ph. no. late afternoon calls are best. Rod.

Dave if you have no luck in finding out what is wrong you can call me. Thats easier that trying to figure out a solution online. I'll email a ph. no. late afternoon calls are best. Rod.

Rod1370, I just may take u up on the offer! I'm going to locate some gauges and try to do some pressure tests on the C4 port. From what I have read, the C4 acts somewhat like a tranny brake. When the C4 locks up, the four speed shifts without grinding and locks up the reverse correct? We only have a 970 case but haven't had issues with her yet, so I'm still learning this system. I would consider my self above the average farmer/mechanic so I'm looking forward to digging in this and fixing the problem. I'm addictive to the hp after just a short time in the field. Thanks again in advance for the advice. -Dave

Brokengun, The oil I used was hydratrans that I purchased from Lyden Oil company which is a local oil company from my area ( N/E Ohio) I'd have to look for the spec sheet to answer anything about the oil tho.....

Brokengun, when u replaced ur clutches, how long did it take? Did u do it, or send it out? What kind of money did it cost?

Huh?

Dave I did the work myself. I think it took me about 9-10 hrs to get the tractor apart.

I put in a master seal kit for ALL of the clutches.

The seal kit from case was around $230 the disc were aroung $100 each for the C4 clutch.

i also replaced the C1 clutch disc they were around $85 each.

The tractors cab does not come off but you will need a pair of stands to hold up the cab.

I made a trolley that fit under the rear end to roll it back.

I also used pipe stands to keep the tractor from tilting up by the engine

I have had nothing but trouble with my 1370 i have split the thing 4 times now.

It took me a while to realize the oil I used eat the glue our of the fiber disc's.

I talked to Agri-king about it and he helped me on a couple of issues.

The guys tops in my book!

He said he has seen my problem before. I guy Changes oil thinking everything is ok only to find out you just screwed-over your case

i dont know if the oil you use caused problems or not but if you replace the disc's the glue problem should go away.

The glue on the new disc's dont seem to have the same problem

So, now that u have changed everything including the type of oil, how has it been? Am I just opening a can of worms with this, or is this issue something that can be corrected?

Dave I would consider my situation on the sever side.

After I replaced everything I used it this year (knock on wood) with no problems for the work that I did.

Personally I think you JUST lost your C4 clutch. Providing you don’t open it up and find a rat’s nest it won’t be that hard to fix.

Since I lost every disc in the tractor I had so fiber mush in the rear end that I had to pull the PTO housing and clean the rear end out.

But my PTO fiber discs were shot to hell so in the end I needed to pull the PTO housing anyway.

The oil that I used eat the glue out from underneath the discs to the point that I could peel the fiber discs off like skin on an onion

My only suggestion would be to buy a factory service manual for your tractor before you start.

I bought mine from the people that sponsor this web site and it’s worth the money. The manual is actually 4 large manuals and it contains the factory pressure test sheet for testing the Power shift and step by step instructions for rebuilding the power shift.

You said you were a decent farmer mechanic, so I don’t think you will have trouble but you will need to know all the different torques when you put her together. That's were a good manual comes in.

If you do get the tractor apart and find a rat’s nest there are some guys here that have the inside scoop on used parts and are willing to help. I know because they helped me.

Dave in my humble opinion a 1370 is worth trying to fix. If you can get buy with C4 clutch disks, wear plates and a seal kit you should be good to go.

P.S. When I fixed mine I decide to repair or replace everything that I thought was worn so I replaced bearings that some guys would leave in. I even rebuilt the charge pump just because I had the tractor apart.

But I wouldn’t recommend going to that extreme. I did only because my health is getting so bad that I am hoping the tractor will out last me

Can u tell me what, and where to fine the RPS valve with a .028 orifice would be located at? They say in the manual if that is plugged, that would cause my issues also... Thanks for any advice in advance!

If you have not, I would recommend putting a pressure gage in C4 test port on the PS valve cover. Clutch down it should have min. 180 also in R it should read the same. That should tell if it's a valving issue.

You will be wise to use ONLY HTU Case oil in this tranny. As others have found out it'd cheaper in the long run.

mEl

mEl, replies like yours gives me a little hope. I
ordered a set of pressure gauges from my
Matco dealer first thing this morning to test the
C4 port, and was going to ask what oil I should
have been using. Reading all these replies from
seasoned service techs assures me that I'm on
the right track. Huge thanks for everyone who
has given me such great advice!

Well, did a pressure test @ the C4 port. 193psi in reverse, and with the pedal pushed in. Did notice that when it was in reverse and I let the pedal out that it wanted to move forward a little bit....... That kinda confused me. Guess I will be splitting it and replacing the C4 clutch.

OK, I"m finally able to get the 1370 in my shop.
Still no reverse, and C4 port pressure is around
190psi. Is there any other test I should perform
before splitting her? I just wanna triple check
before I go through all that labor for nothing.
Thanks again, Dave.

Did you find out what was wrong?
I alson have 2 Case 1370 and I last year i sometimes got som toruble with the C4 clutch ("R"). When I press the clutch-pedal down the transmissions oil pressure sometimes goes down and stays low. If the powershift in in "R" and I let the clutch-pedal up, the pressure still is low and the tractor does not move. This does not happends always. This year it has not happend so often.
But when it happens, the pressure goes up if I press the gas-pedal down, and the tractor starts to move backwards. There is no prolem with Powershift 1, 2 or 3.
I hope I dont have to split the tractor. Maybe i could be some problem with the valves on the right side?
Did the transmission-oil pressure went down on your tractor?

HELP!!!!!!! I split her, and took all the clutches to my local CASE dealer. My C-4 Clutches looked new, and my C-2 clutches had some wear. They looked at everything, and said "nothing here at all is bad enough to give u any problems" ..... So with 192psi on the C-4 port, and good clutches, what am I over looking???? The gasket on the PS valve looked good as new, and all 5 tubes looked good also. I"m confused and looking for a light at the end of this tunnel. Thought I would assemble the clutches again, and use my rubber tip blow gun to pressurize the clutches and see if that uncovers anything. Any ideas would really be appriciated. Thanks in advice as always, Dave

Nope, I"m stumped :-( I don"t know which way to go. Trust me, as soon as I figure this one out, I"ll run to my computer and put it on here.

Ok! Doy you have the parts catalog for this tractor? I have if you need any pictures.
I wonder if it might be some wrong with the "regulator valve" that causes this problem. (A65672 Valve assembly - P.T.O. & clutch regulator, on page 265.)
You said the you got the problem after using the hydraulic? 'The oil goes through this thing to the hydraulic system and to the clutch. And the transmissionpressure-meter in the cabin is attached to this thing. On my tractor I got lower transmissionoilpressure when i press the clutch down when i get this problem. According to the parts catalog, C4 seems to be the largest cluth so I guess this clutch needs more oil than the others. Can you check if you get lower transmission-pressure on the meter in the cabin?
If the problem is in this regulator valve it would be much easier than splitting the tractor.

Stupid question, is your p-shift cable stretched. Our 1370 and a friends 2290 have done that. Try going in the 3rd power shift and then step in the clutch on the go. Then slam the p-shift lever back hard and drop the clutch. It should hop twice and take off in reverse.

I figured out my problem FINALLY! The large snap ring the goes inside of the drum was missing. Someone had replaced the C-4 clutches and didn't reinstall it. After removal of all the clutches the discovery was found. So new C-2 clutches, master seal kit, all new 4 pistons, new snap ring, gaskets, and Case oil are on order. I can't wait till it all comes in so she can get out in the field again before the snow flies.