SC Case Valve Guide Removal

tomfg

Member
I need to replace the intake valve guides on my SC Case. I haven't replaced any guides in 20 years, and I'm not sure which way the guides drive out. Do they drive out the top of the head, or down thru the bottom? I was thinking of drilling the guides out most of the way before I drive them out to make it easier to remove them.
Good idea or not?
Thanks, Tom
 
(quoted from post at 16:40:17 09/27/12) I need to replace the intake valve guides on my SC Case. I haven't replaced any guides in 20 years, and I'm not sure which way the guides drive out. Do they drive out the top of the head, or down thru the bottom? I was thinking of drilling the guides out most of the way before I drive them out to make it easier to remove them.
Good idea or not?
Thanks, Tom

Why don't you take your head to a local automotive machine shop and have the guides bronzewalled. They will repair the existing guides by boring the guide and installing a sleeve then will size the sleeve to a running fit for the valve stems.

mEl
 
I have read that they can be knurled in place using a hand knurling tool instead of replacement, unless they have been knurled once before. Just thought I would throw out another option.
 
Just put them in a small press and they should pop out. I did mine about a year ago and just put it in a small H frame press from Harbor Freight. It took a few pumps of the jack, but they popped right out. As I remember they can go either way and I pushed from the top down.
 
Every time I visit the machine shop it cost me a lot of money. I have an old valve and seat grinder, but not the tools for installing the bronze liners. I enjoy working on engines, and the satisfaction of doing what I can myself.
The machine shop got my 64 Chevy truck engine to machine....... the SC Case is mine, lol.
 
Thanks for the tip. I don't have a press, but suppose I could use a bottle jack and some scrap iron and make something.
 
I do have a 5/16" knurling set, but I've never had great results, and the instructions say not to use it on replaceable valve guides.... probably because if they're replaceable, you might as well replace them for better results?
They say the knurling isn't long lasting either.
 
I use in air chisel and a punch with a shoulder that fits the ID of the guide. I also use a hardened washer (like under a head nut) so as not to splay out the guide. Drive from the combustion chamber side, the guides should have shoulder so they do not loosen and fall into the combustion chamber, thus holding the valve open. Works for me. I also would suggest the bronze wall sleeve from a shop, as they can hone to an exact clearance, whatever you may choose.
 

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