1969 Oliver 1550

I just drug in another "project", it has been setting for a number of years, and unfortuanately the owner had passed away and the kids had no idea as to why he parked it.The engine is loose( 6 cyl diesel ) after setting a battery on it and cranking it over I realized the starter seemed weak, I tried to crank it over again and it started making a terrible "metal to metal" noise in the rear section of the engine. I pulled the starter to find the nose cone missing off the starter, and traces of a earlier weld / brazing job that did"nt hold. After sliding the bellhousing back and retrieving the nosecone that was rolling around the pressure plate I think I have found a bad pilot bearing too. Is there any thing I need to be concerned with as far as trying to start it after I get it back together? The crank has no up and down motion in it, and seems to have about 1/32" endplay at most or 0.060 roughly. The rear seal shows signs of wear / leaking, and the oil had a little smell of diesel in it which I figure is the roosa master pump leaking into the engine..? Other than that I"m hoping the rest is ok, I hope to get the starter back first of the week.
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i would fix that diesel leak, we converted our 88 to a roosamaster and we didn't know it was leaking until it froze up the motor and spun a bearing. also i am surprised it is a 69 model and it doesn't have a hydra power, or an over under for that matter. little side note here what do your neighbors think of all the tractors that follow you home. you live in a pretty urban area?
 
Morning Jordan,
I will definitely look into the fuel leak before going much further,I did a little more checking and it appears the pilot bearing / bushing is totally gone and has allowed the splines in the clutch to get excess wear in them, and that is why the clutch shaft going to the trans is running out of center. And yes you are correct, I do live in somewhat of an urban area, but was raised back on the mountain on a small farm. My neighbors are good people, most are middle aged, and are more excited than my wife is when I drag something in. My wife and I are the Founders and President of the local Antique tractor and engine show so the whole town kinda looks forward to the show, and especially the tractor parade.


Jim
 
1550 model only offered the Hydra-power, not over/under.
There were a few 1550 "specials" sold with limited options. Might be one of them.
 
I think those "Specials" were 1555s weren't they?
But yea,you could get most any of them without hydrapower I'm sure.
 
I'm not familiar with Oliver at all, mostly have case. The shift pattern indicates a lo-hi range, is that done by shoving the gearstick down to get to low? then pull it up for hi? Hate to sound so dumb, but I'm just trying to learn a little till I get a manual.And that knob in the center of the steering wheel....does this thing have telescopic steering? I know it has tilt.

Jim
 
You shift just like the shift diagram shows. Two H-patterns connected with a I-pattern neutral. When the shifter is centered in one of the H-pattern neutrals push forward or back to access the other H-pattern. Allows you to have a high and low range with one shift lever. Once you get used to it it is pretty slick. ADB.
 
ok with the shifting you are right it is technically 3 forward and one reverse with hi and low ranges. based on what you have stated you think that you pull the shifter up for high and push down for low. well its way easier than that because way back in the 40's oliver combined the shifters so it is now a flawless shift, technically. when the tractor is in neutral the shifter should automatically go to the center and then all you do is push it forward or back to switch from the high to low ranges. also yes it does have a telescoping steering.
 
If you really have that much end play it is excessive.

I don't have the book here, but the upper normal limit is around 0.010 to 0.012

Even if you used a 50% wear limit you are really high.

RT (my 2 cents. Had to comment.)

I checked an IT manual and sometimes they are a little hard to interpret but it appeared to say that the end play should be 0.0045 to 0.0085 although a 1650, 1655 was listed as 0.0095 as the upper limit.
 
Got my starter back, had to have a new armeture, nosecone, and solenoid, along with bushings, and brushes. I had already changed the oil in the engine, and installed a new fuel filter, so after getting the starter on and wired I bleed the fuel lines, and filters, and have fuel standing in the rear of the injector pump.I cracked the inl lines on the back of the pump and cranked the engine over trying to bleed any air from the pump and inj lines but can only get one lines to squirt a small mist of fuel / air. I removed the screen in the rear of the pump to make sure fuel was getting into the pump and that the screen was not clogged, but still no cigar. Does anyone have any advice on further bleeding a Roosa Master inj pump?
Thanks


Jim
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Still tinkering on the 1550 when I have time,looks like I need to have the injection pump cleaned and checked, I never have got it to bleed all the air out. I have bought a Waukesha 185GL gas power unit with little run time on it,does anyone know by chance if it will replace the 232 diesel? I know there is a little horsepower difference, but will not affect what I want it for. If the 185GL will interchange I can make progress on selling my other tractor if the Oliver looks to be a keeper, but I need to put it through it's paces a little.Thanks

Jim
 

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