elec auger motor question

Dave from MN · Nov 29, 2012

I bought a 11'x5" utility/grain auger. they put a 1hp "induction motor"on it. 115V. Is this the correct motor for an auger? It has no power, as soon as the auger starts to take in soybeans, it will stall and not start, just hum. Even with the auger out, on the ground level, but full of beans, it will not start. I had the fleet store assemble the auger, and they put the motor on apparently that it should have. I been taking heavy corn out of bins all week that have 1hp motors on 6"x12-14' augers, one with quite an incline, and they have plant of torque and start no issues full of grain. Should I take back and ask them to put a diiferent type of motor on it?

JMS/.MN · Nov 29, 2012

Cream separators were a hard start-up machine. They had induction-repulsion motors.

Roger in Iowa · Nov 29, 2012

What is the rpm rating of the motor? It should be on the plate or decal on the motor. You do not want 3600 rpm.

IaGary · Nov 29, 2012

Can you limit the amount of beans going into it?

It may need to get polished up a bit before you let it run full.

Also beans pull harder than corn in an auger.

gary

Dave from MN · Nov 29, 2012

Dave from MN · Nov 29, 2012

1750rpm

Dave from MN · Nov 29, 2012

not really. It is an auger that needs to go into the hole in the door, in a bin that has no auger in it. Most people say to just start it, and let it auger itself in. I need to get the bin unloaded, as I have a contract due. Maybe I should borrow a grain vac?

Anonymous-0 · Nov 29, 2012

The one thing i have found is the moter wired wrong where the cord is attached. Its very common to see a 110 cord wired 220 into the moter,and the oppisite is just as common. Beans do pull hard in a new auger, but a 1hp should pull it.

Don-Wi · Nov 29, 2012

Larry might have something- check the wireing. We had a similar issue with a motor we ended up putting on an elevator. Wouldn't work all to well and had no power. Dad plugged it into a 220 outlet and it hasn't looked back since. For this motor, it was the easier way to go as the diagram inside the cover was rubbed off, and I couldn't find the right info online.

Donovan from Wisconsin

ss55 · Nov 29, 2012

It could be the motor or it could be the auger. Can you turn the auger by hand with two hands on the big pulley when the motor stalls? What is the belt ratio of the pulleys? Is the motor accidentally wired for 230 volts instead of 115?

1hp x 5252 / 1750 rpm = 3.00 foot-pounds of torque at the motor shaft

If you have a 2 inch diameter pulley on the motor: 3.00 ft-lb x 12 inch/foot / 1 inch pulley radius = 36 pounds of pull on the belt.

Dave from MN · Nov 29, 2012

2" pulley on motor, about a 10" at the biggest on the auger. I did wire the motor, as best as I could decipher from label. It seems to run fine until it gets partially loaded. I can turn by hand.

Dalet · Nov 29, 2012

5" is a pretty big auger for a 1hp motor. But, I have feed augers on flex auger, much longer on 11', moving ground feed, not beans. 1hp is too much power for 115v IMHO too. I would probably verify that it needs 220v to get the job done. You would need at least 20 amps at 115v and you should have 25% reserve so you don't kick the breaker.

Anonymous-0 · Nov 29, 2012

I had the same problem. 6" auger - 12 foot long. Put a 115 volt one horse power electric motor on it and it would just humm. Same motor runs a flat six inch unload tube in other bins just fine. My problems were: 1) Too much auger exposed at the bottom. 2) Too much voltage drop running electricity across the farm to this one particular bin. 3) Too much of an angle. 4) Couldn't reduce any kind of flow with a slide gate. So, I took the screw out of the auger and put the right direction in to run with the PTO of a tractor. Works great. Tractor sits there at idle and does the job. Proper shielding is in place.

buickanddeere · Nov 29, 2012

240 motor on 120 has the torque reduced to 1/4 of nameplate
valve.
Certainly sounds like low voltage and/or too large of a motor
pulley and too small auger picture.

boler76 · Nov 29, 2012

what size and length is your extension cord, should be larger wire for longer cord, minimum #14 and better #12 or #10, If the cord is too long or too small the motor will start unloaded but not have enough voltage to run loaded, Motors get burned up due to the cords being too long or too small

wisbaker · Nov 29, 2012

This may be a really stupid question-is the Rotation right? With the biggest motor it won't move squat backwards, don't ask me how I know this. In my opinion (FWIW) 1HP is to small for and 11' conveyor unless you have some kind of gearbox to slow it down (trade RPM for torque). In the rendering plant I don't remember augers much less than 8", Maybe 6" and don't remember motors smaller than 3HP on an auger or conveyor. With an electric motor the efficiency doesn't kill you if you oversize the motor, if the motor is sized to big it just pulls what ever amps it needs to get the work done. Remember horsepower can be related to amount of material moved x distance in a given time. If you figure out how much weight of beans you want to unload, how far you have to move them and how much time you want to move them in you should get an idea of Horsepower requirements. IIRC 1 HP = 33,000 lbs 1 foot in one minute.

Anonymous-0 · Nov 29, 2012

I see where 1 hp is sufficient but if you stop and start, the HP must be tripled.

fixerupper · Nov 29, 2012

I second Buick's suggestion. It probably has a 110 cord with a standard 110 plug but the guy who assembled it wired the cord for 220 in the motor. Had that happen with a 9' sweep auger. The sweep didn't have a motor so I threw on a 1HP used motor I had bought on a sale. Motor had a regular 110 cord and plug on it but the previous owner had wired it for 220. The motor just had no power. Had to hold the sweep up to it could pull the load. It had me scratching my head big time till I finally figured it out. Had plenty of power after I changed the wiring. Jim

ss55 · Nov 29, 2012

If you can turn the auger by hand when it's loaded, I'd believe the problem is likely the motor.

big jt · Nov 29, 2012

Gonna offer a follow up comment then another possibility that may have been missed.

Someone reffered to a induction repulsion motor. I have always reffered to them as repulsion induction. ie Repulsion start Induction run. These were the best thing for hard starting loads. They were also high maintenance since they had brushes that needed to be replaced. They also haven't been made for thirty years or so. What you likely have is a split phase motor which are the worst for starting loads I didn't think these were made as big as 1 horse though. A capacitor start motor should be adequate.

Another suggestion, What ratio is set up in the drive. You said the motor is 1750 (no load of 1800). Should have at least a 3 to 1 ratio. No point in running a auger faster than 600 rpm as anything faster is just spinning your wheels. At least that is what my prof taught me at ISU.

jm2cw

jt

Dave from MN · Nov 29, 2012

I beleive it is a split phase. Some one told me I should have a capacitor start-capacitor run, motor on it.

Dalet · Nov 29, 2012

(quoted from post at 22:55:09 11/29/12) I beleive it is a split phase. Some one told me I should have a capacitor start-capacitor run, motor on it.

You need torque for an auger. Split phase motors don't have much of that. They run fans.

Russ from MN · Nov 30, 2012

Mimbach? Take it back, they need to provide you with something that works. I used to have good luck with them.

buickanddeere · Nov 30, 2012

Is there a start capacitor on that motor?

Bill Krosnicki · Nov 30, 2012

Just from my own experience, I've had much better results from a good Dayton or Baldor motor than from the cheaper farm and fleet motors. More torque and they don't overheat and shut down as quick. Also if you're trying to use like a 100' extension cord it's just not gonna work well.

greygoat · Nov 30, 2012

Look on the nameplate for the SERVICE FACTOR of
the motor. Cheap one will be 1.10 or maybe 1.15.
A Baldor will be 1.35 or maybe 1.50 ! I spoke to
a Baldor factory rep who said to spec them and use them "Right up to the service factor", that
is : if a 1 horse Baldor had a 1.50 service factor, you could spec and use it for 1-1/2 horsepower all day long. A cheap motor will fail
under such conditions!

elec auger motor question

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