How to remove the rotor on a to-30, 1953

Anonymous-0 · Oct 17, 2012

This sounds silly, but it's been a long time since I worked on points type vehicles and I don't want to screw up this one. The tractor ran when I shut it down a couple of years ago. It has no spark, battery good, voltaget to the coil. I assume there's a bad connection in the points and I would like to access them to clean them and check everything, I tried to lift the rotor up and off and it won't budge. Please help. Thanks

Jeff-oh · Oct 18, 2012

There is no trick. SHould just pull off. There is no retension screw or anything.

Could lightly tap with hammer to break up any crud or corrosion.

Worst case I guess you could break the rotor away to see the issue.

Just don"t get too agressive.

garacuda · Oct 18, 2012

I had the same deal on my T0 30 after setting unused for about 3 years. I tapped it on the sides a few times and when it popped off I saw about a million tiny black ants living in there. Took my air hose to it, dropped in new points and condensor and started it up.

Good Luck

Anonymous-0 · Oct 18, 2012

Thanks guys that really helps boost my mind set that I can still do this kind of work.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 18, 2012

Guy's, I"m back for some more higher education. I have removed the rotor in pieces, it was seized by rust, I also removed a friction washer and a felt washer. Now there's a bakelight dome covering the points and condenser that I can't seem to find a way to remove. I've never seen one of these in a parts breakdown, so I hate to break it like I did the rotor, but the rotor is readily available.
Thanks for the help.
Steve

Anonymous-0 · Oct 18, 2012

I tried posting this on the rotor question and it didn't take very well. So I'll try this.

I've removed the rotor by breaking it and now their appears to be a bakelight dust cover over the points and condenser. I haven't seen these in a parts breakdown so I'd like to not break it. How is it removed. I took a friction fit sheet metal washer out and a felt washer and I still can't find a way around the cover being held so tightly.
Thanks again.
Steve

2tractors · Oct 18, 2012

Please post a pic of the bakelike dome over the points and condensor. It sounds like the wet weather shield and should pull straight up as the rotor should have. This tractor must have been under the water at some point.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 23, 2012

Well guys I got the thing running. The rotor, dust/moisture cover, points and condenser were all original, I believe. They were worn completely out.

I had to bust the rotor to get it off, but it was worn to a nub. The dust cover came off, but the gasket was hard as the bakelight and the oiled felt seal was just a string of cloth.

The points weren't making contact because there was no electrical connection to make, no material left on the points.

Replaced it all and it runs great. Now off to get the leaks in the carb sealed up. I must not have put enough twist on the screws when I cleaned it and replaced the gaskets, but it does run very well.

I learned that if you run 91 Octane gas or above here in Missouri there's no corn liquor added, so the gas will last lots longer before ruining parts. I'm all for supporting the energy cause and our farmers, but not at the expense of my equipment. I'd rather drink the alcohol anyway.

Thanks for the help. It's nice to know you are there.

How to remove the rotor on a to-30, 1953

Anonymous-0

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