Fertility and weed management

John 37A

Member
I am a new hobby farmer- doing it for the experience. I have one field that is 8 acres that I would like to put into corn this year. I am trying to learn, but this is a new experience for me. I bought a JD 7000 no till with liquid fertilizer. I need help determining fertilizer and herbicide programs.

Details on the field:
8 acres in central-southeast Ohio
Mostly clay loam
Long time hay field, corn 3 years ago followed by 2 years of soybeans.
This fall I applied 2 tons/acre lime since my soul tests last year determined it was low.

Last year was my first year with this field, I drilled beans and sprayed my own roundup. I sold about 42 bpa, but it seemed like there were a ton of beans too low on the plant for the combine to get (1-2" from the ground). I have a sprayer and am working on getting my pesticide applicators license. Last year I had some lambsquarters in the field.

So, how would you guys manage this field? I think I'm good on tillage, mostly regarding fertilizers, pesticides, rates, timing, etc. I do not have a soil test yet, just trying to get a feel for what fertilizers and herbicides to use and when.
 
Bean fields have to be very smooth for combining...I use cultimulcher before planting and plant with drill pulling packer behind. You will have more control of seed dropped planting with corn planter.

Corn fert. for me[ Nort. Cent. Wi...heavy clay soils] Get soil test first. I bulk spread p..k... and n{ 46-0-0 and or 21-0-0-4} before planting. Put 15-17 gal of 28% + zinc at planting and side dress at 10" to 12" with 46- 0 0..75 to 100 lbs.

Corn is NOT cheap too grow !!

Weed control...RU + 2-4d before plant...plant conventional corn...so use chemicals for expected weed pressure expected.
Hope this helps. John
 
Nice to put a pre herbicide down to control broad leaves,
before planting or before emergence, these last in the soil a bit
to discourage the broad leaves.

Fertilizer, put removal rate of P and K down at least, granular
broadcast is the cheapest to get a worn down soil build back
up. Liquid on the planter can be 2x2 off to the side and in a
band. Generally soybeans are very sensitive to salts and don't
like much if any liquid in the furrow; works for corn but be real
careful with beans.

Micros are needed for top yield these days, boron, sulfur, zinc,
copper, etc. some areas are naturally high in some. You don't
want to overdo it on these, so a soil test is good to know here
to go with them.

Some will suggest foliar fertilizing to help feed a plant, and that
is a nice top notch deal, but it is an expensive way to get small
amounts of nutrients; much better to spend your dollars on
granular and get the soil right to start with. Better bang for the
buck.

45 bu of beans will remove that much fertilizer, but needs the
bigger number available to grow the stems, leaves, and grain
during the year. The N of course it mostly produces itself.

Innoculate Can help the right bugs grow in the soil to make the
roots make N, especially if you havent grown beans there
before. Cheap, couple bucks an acre, black powder you mix in
the seed box with the seeds.

Paul
a183963.jpg
 
As noted, micros are the most recent addition to the fertilizing
cocktail. You can't put boron on when beans are planted (or
other crops) as it delays and reduces germination. You should
go 2x2 with boron or foliar later on when you roundup. Along
with roundup I always add calcium, phosphorus, and sugar.
You could start out with a 24D burn down but that will delay
planting 10 days to two weeks. That's tough as planting is so
weather dependent anyway. I use a splitter to apply starter and
micros in furrow right where the plants need them. Plan on
feeding when you roundup as the starter and micros will often
be used within the first three weeks. It isn't a race to the
highest yield. You want to leave the soil more rich and
balanced at the end of the season.
 
As to the low soybeans, some varieties are bad at that, but
they tend to be higher yielders.... Others will set pods a couple
inches off the ground and give you a better chance at getting
them all.

Smooth field as others said, and a floating or flex head goes
without saying, to get the beans cut at ground level every row.

Paul
 
(quoted from post at 01:55:07 02/24/15) As to the low soybeans, some varieties are bad at that, but
they tend to be higher yielders.... Others will set pods a couple
inches off the ground and give you a better chance at getting
them all.

Smooth field as others said, and a floating or flex head goes
without saying, to get the beans cut at ground level every row.

Paul

Thanks for all the replies. The beans were pioneer. The guy who combined them for me noted that they were nice size beans but the shortest plants that he had ever seen. That being said, the test weight was a little low. Less than 55.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top