offsetting a jd 7000 planter for beans

found me a 7000 no till planter for my small corn patch but want to plant beans also but don't want 36" bean rows. read someplace you can offset the planter somehow and have 18 inch rows. is there a special hitch or something I need to find? other option is my old john deere B drill with no packing wheels.
Gary
 
my neighbor has a 19 row 7000. it was a farmer built unit from 2 8 row units and a couple extra row units. he has 10 rows in the front at 30 in, then the back row is 9 units so he ends up with 15 in rows for beans. heres a pic if it works. yeah, its in the ditch, always set your transport locks and watch your markers on trees along the road

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I use a Deere 7200 4row and split the rows to give me 19 inch rows. I do not offset mine,I just drive my tractor using the planted row for my marker.I plant about 50 acres each year both no-till and some worked ground with no compaction problems. I would recommend using a radial bean meter rather than the feed cup style meter as it is much easier to get the correct population. If only a few acres the feed cup meter is ok but the radial will pay for itself because you can set population better and save on seed. Tom
 
Slide your tractor hitch over 9 inches and double back.

Or plant the field, lock the markers up, and come back across the field driving over 18 inches, will be very easy to line up with the planter tracks.

Might need a slow-down sprocket to get the population low enough.

Paul
 
thanks guys. one other question. once planted I can put down a preemergent, but what about going back in to spray round up? 18" rows will be too narrow for me to drive through so would the preemergent be enough to keep the weeds down till the beans cover the ground?
 

Preemerge herbicide will not be enough. How wide is your sprayer? Spraying across the rows would be one option.
 
I have planted beans that way for several years. I have a White 5100 4-36" rows. I slide the drawbar on the tractor over enough so that when I drive back in the same tractor tracks, I am splitting the rows. You will be planting in your tractor tracks, that's OK. I set the population for about 4 seeds/ft of row. I have planted in worked ground and have used no till coulters when no tilling. Works good, even a couple of neighbors have started planting that way after seeing my field. I have pulled the planter with a JD 70 and a 1850 Oliver, makes no difference to the beans, but the 1850 rides a lot better. For spraying, it is no different than having drilled beans, if the beans are very big, you are going to drive over some of them. Another thing I have done is to set the planter at a 1/2 rate just like you are double rowing them, but plant the field one time regular way and then plant it a second time at a angle. This leaves a diamond shape between the rows. The advantage is that when you spray post emerge, you have rows you can count and follow. I like to combine the double angle planted beans better than the double rows. Try it, you will like it, Chris
 
so Chris I'm confused. how do you set the markers? seems easier for me to just plant and then tie them up and go back driving over the planted rows but I could see that leading to compaction on those rows.
 
It sounds more confusing than it really is, but I'll try to explain. Setting on the seat, if your drawbar is moved right, start planting on the left side of the field, lower marker to the ground normally. When you get to the end of the row, raise planter,turn tight and follow the tractor tracks you just made, planting back to the other end of the field. My markers alternate when raised, so I let the marker down until it is about 1 foot off of the soil and leave it there( in the air) going across the field. This pass splits the first four rows that you just planted. At the end of the field, raise planter and turn and follow the mark you made on the first pass across the field, lowering the marker to the soil. Continue to do this all across the field. You will only use one marker when planting, but as I said, the markers alternate everytime you raise the planter, so to get the right marker to fall you have to cycle the lift system. I'm pretty sure that a JD 7000 uses the same alternating marker system, so even if you hooked up a separate hose to run the markers, you would still have to raise and lower and raise again to get the correct marker to fall. I wouldn't worry about compaction in the row unless you were using a HUGE tractor to pull the planter. Actually, the rows you drive on will usually come up a little quicker because the soil is packed tightly around the seed making better seed to soil contact. I have seen large rollers that are pulled across the field after planting to make better seed to soil contact. Clear as mud?? When it's dry enough this spring, before planting time, hook onto the planter, move the drawbar over and drop the planter, drive a ways, then raise planter, turn around and drop planter and drive back and see how the row spacing is. This will give you a better idea what I'm trying to explain. OR, just hook up planter regularly and when you double plant, just drive on a planted row for a mark on the second pass. It works better for me to plant the double rows as I plant the field as opposed to planting the whole field and then trying to split the rows, I get lost and have narrow and wide rows all across the field. Look at the seeding chart in your planter book, decide how many pounds of seed you want to plant and then cut that rate in 1/2 to see where to set your planter. The bags have approximate seed count on bags, divide seed count by the population you want to get pounds of seed /acre. E-mail me if you want to ask more questions, Chris
 
Just guessing, but going by the loader bucket and chain on the frame, it isn't supposed to be in the ditch?? Chris
 
I use a5100 white 4 row38 planter with 3row splitter. Before having splitter, just planted1 round,turned around and drove on top of just planted rows, don't put marker arms down on second pass. You tracked on2 of the first pass rows.used white 2-85 tractor.tracked on rows came up about a day later. Never had a problem with emergence. Was notilling. Worked a lot better than 38 inch row beans. Now have 3 row splitter,saves time but not any better stand. Population should be set at half of what planter puts out. I aim for170000 final population.
 
I've done it with a 4 row 30.I moved the hitch 7 or 8 inches to one side and drove down the field normally then came back with my tractor wheels exactly on their tire prints in the opposite direction.I lowered the markers on both passes then centered the tractor between the marks for the next set of rows.You may have trouble getting your seed rate correct.The book settings are for average sized untreated seed. Small seeds will run faster than the chart.I found the polymer coated seed that Pioneer was using when I quit planting beans flowed like water through the bean cups.
 
thank you that does help. I like the idea of just trying without planting to get use to it. think that is what I will do.
 

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