converting corn field to hay

This is my first year farming. That said, I've
leased 20 acres to plant hay. It had corn on it
all that's left now are stalks about a foot tall
and I want to get rid of them. I have a NH
workmaster 55 4x4. My plan is to pull a 9ft wide
field cultivator w/ a rake, then disc (10ft wide)
2 rows of discs offset, then disc again pulling a
cultipacker. Then no-till orchard grass.

Is this the right way to do it? or should I bush
hog the stalks first?

Any advise would help, thanks in advance.
 
You won't get 10 feet if you go in with the field cultivator first. If you aren't going to moldboard plow it,then I'd say yes,use the brush hog first. Then you'll have to disc it a few times to cut the stalks up even finer,then MAYBE you can get the field cultivator through it.
 
Just it will make a fine seed bed. disc at an angle to better cut up the stalks. Disc it a 2-3 times and if you can put a harrow on your disc and pull it the 2nd or third pass even better.
 
Perhaps in your climate the stalks break down more than here in MN. Here in spring the stalks are just as fresh and strong as they were in fall with our long winters. The field cultivator would be a rake!

The disk is the proper implement for handling cornstalks. Might take a couple of passes if it is a lighter disk.

A molboard plow is good too, but we don't like those in spring here as it makes lumpy hard ground.

Paul
 
That's a hoot...cultivate and disc then you're gonna [i:871446938c]no-till[/i:871446938c] some grass seed in.....

Brush hog those stalks down and then hit them a couple of times with the disc to cut em up so they will go through your plow.
then disc at least once more perhaps twice.
Then run your drill through with the cultipacker behind that.
 
Plow or disc the ground and plant soybeans or wheat this year. By fall the corn stalks will be almost gone and then you can no-till your alfalfa the following spring.

Casey in SD
 
Just a question - do you know what herbicides were used on the corn last year? There are a couple grass killers sometimes used in corn that would affect your grass seeds this year yet. Something to think on.

Paul
 
I'd think that chopping the stalks with your bushhog and following twice with the disk once at opposite way you'll plant and once at right way to plant. Then you can use your field cultivator if it will clear the chopped up stalks or maybe even the cultipacker to smooth the ground. Plant. Cultipacker after planting. Not a hay expert myself but I am an expert at farming with cheap older tillage equipment! It will all work out and good luck with the farming, hope you enjoy it.
 
The herbicide point is a good one. If that checks out okay, don"t be too proud to hire some work done. Plowed right or someone with a brillion dominator or something similar will leave you with a better end product. Then all you"d probably need is the field cultivator and a packer for a firm seed bed.id rather do it right once than do it again. No need to over work it either. If it"s not clumpy, smooth and firm, plant it.
 
I have seen it done several times if stalks are heavy and look like a challenge get a match old. Fashioned but works keep disk handy in case you have to stop fire
 
Larry has it, although I did not have the option of a harrow so I used a drag. - I ran my disc through it 3 times - 3 different directions and then planted with a brillion planter - result was a very nice pasture.
 
Forget the cultivator. Bushhog it to knock the stalks off, then use the disk over it a few times until most of the stalks chopped up good, and you have some covering soil, then go over it with the cultipacker. Drill your grass seed, but keep it shallow- less than 1/2" deep, preferably less, then cultipack it again.

By the way, where are you in Md.??
 

I would bush hog it down close then disc it till it was right. I would then broadcast it instead of no till drilling. The prob with drilling in loose soil is getting the seed to deep. Plus, you got all that seed in a row. Anyhow, broadcast it with some legumes mixed in and around here we chain harrow it to pull the top sheet over the seed. Sorta like making a bed. Then we cultipack it a couple of times. Depending upon the consistency of the soil, chain harrowing might not be necessary. Around here, we have clay so it helps to chain harrow then pack. We usually use 25 lbs of orchard grass with about 10 lbs of clover per acre. A brillion seeder works great, if you have access to one. Less running over the ground. Another poster brought out a good point about the chemical residue. If possible, find out what herbicide was used with the corn and check with your county agent or farm surplus store to make sure of the effects on your seed before you go to the expense of this project. Good luck.
 

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