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alternator puytting out too much on 12 v conversion???

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I recently converted a ford 2000 from 6v to 12v. Got all the wiring done, started it up today, checked output it is 17-18 V, even on the resistor both sides show high output, battery shows 13 V, I still have 6 V coil, thats why i used resistor, what did I do wrong????
 
yes, went to napa store told what i was doing, they fixed me up with alternator etc.... runs great, just putting out high numbers
 
You say the battery measures 13V. How is the alternator hooked into the circuit? It should have a direct line to the battery through the ampmeter.
 
A several possibilities:

1 - You have an externally-regulated alternator and you tractor is wired for an internally-regulated alternator. This will cause the alternator to "run wild" with no voltage regulation, exactly as you describe.

2 - It's wired up wrong. Correctly wired the alternator #1 terminal will show 12 volts to ground with the ignition on, and 0 volts with the ignition off. The BAT and #2 terminals will show 12 volts at all times (ignition both on and off)

3 (long shot) - You were sold a defective alternator. Have the NAPA dealer can put it on his test stand and check.
 
How are you getting your readings. A battery with the engine shut off should read 12.5 give or take a little bit. Then with it running and you check across the battery it should read 14-15 volts. Now if your starting the tractor then removing one of the battery cables and taking a reading that way your lucky you have not fried the alternator or even your self. So please explain how your checking it. If your checking it the correct way you stand a good chance you just got a bad new alternator which is not all that uncommon
 
the alt. is a one wire alt. I believe it is wired straight to the battery and not through the ammeter. (might be the problem???) I checked the battery by just holding on the post, it read 13.06, when it was running i did same check at battery it was fluctuating between 17-18 v. It is internal regulated alt,
 
A 1 wire is wired any way that it hooks to the battery and it - ground as for the system. Sounds like what you have is a bad new alternator and any more when I buy one I have it checked before I leave the store. 1 wire alternators are trouble from the get go since they where never made to work the way they do by the company that built them new so what I am saying is a company rebuilds them to work as one wire and they never work real well that way
 
Hello ctallen2011,
One wire alternator has an internal voltage regulator. Make sure you have a good ground from the alternator to the battery.
If that part is O.K. take the alternator back and get another one.
Charging voltage should be 13.8 to 14.2 volts.
You may measure a bit more voltage, but when it gets above 14.5V or more, that is too much! Battery voltage is 12.6 volts at 70 degrees when fully charged.
Guido.
 
It may be your meter is off. If you are using a didgital , try one with the old-fashoned needle. There is a lot of electrical noise around a tractor.
 
It may be your meter is off. If you are using a didgital , try one with the old-fashoned needle. There is a lot of electrical noise around a tractor.
 
Not true Old. Delco built factory one wire SI series alternators since the 70's.
Delco made the SI series alternator in one wire, two wire and three wire versions. The only difference being the regulator used.
One type factory Delco one wire unit even allowed you to dial in any one of four voltage settings.
 
I'm with Bob M,
That's exactly what happens when you wire in a normally external regulated alternator as though it has internal regulation. What make/model alternator is it?
 
A one wire setup with only the big #10 wire connected to the positive battery post (either through the amp meter, or direct, should charge at 14.4 or 14.8 volts. It is a bad alternator if this is the readings and wiring.
Use a 3 wire setup 10si, or Hitachi.and be done with it! Jim
 
A 1-wire alternator is pretty foolproof on the wiring.

All you do is run the wire from the alternator to the ammeter, and from the ammeter to the + post on the battery (or the lug on the starter).

Either he sold you a bad alternator, or a 3-wire alternator. Take it back.
 
Several thoughts:

1 - You need to wire the ammeter into the charging circuit. Reason: A working ammeter will indicate an overvoltage condition by pegging on the "+" side when the engine is running. (Ordinarly once the battery becomes fully charged the ammeter should settle at just to the right of "0".)

2 - Have you measured system voltage with an analog (mechanical needle) voltmeter? Some digital voltmeters - especially cheap ones - can give grossly wrong readings on old tractor electrics.

3 - If the system is truly overchaging and you've got a "one wire" alternator, the alternator has a bad internal regulator. Take it back and exchange it for a different one.
 
In all my years working on tractors... I've yet to find a digital Fluke that gave a wrong reading... so I'd tend to think that the reading is correct unless you have some poor, poor meter.
If it's a true one wire hookup then I would suggest that you check the ground connection from the alternaotr case to the tractor's chassis and the chassis to battery connection to make sure they're clean and tight. Beyond that... I would say you have an alt with a bad regulator. Also keep in mind that if you even momentarly crossed the polarity at any point in that system by hooking power to ground you may have fried the regulator. I've seen big Leece's that would push voltage like that with bad regs... after they got arced. If that's what's happened, exchange it for another one.

Rod
 
Heres a link to many regulators available

http://search.waiglobal.com/prodsubcatmfgpart.aspx?manufacturer=Delco&series=Alternators%20-%2010SI&prodcat=Transpo%20Electronics&subprodcat=Regulators


Alont
 
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