Here's a question for you tinkerers

Ultradog MN

Well-known Member
Location
Twin Cities
I'm welding some new tie rod ends on my Ford. I could have bought new or aftermarket ends but these were about 1/8 of the cost so worth a little welding/grinding.
But this one didn't have a grease zerk in it. So I'm going to add one.
My question is: how would you go about doing that?
I know, I know. Drill and tap.
But how would you go about it?
I have a plan.
Just wondering how many others here would have the same plan.

100_02731.jpg
 
I wouldn't bother. You'll probably shorten the life of the tie rod end more with chips etc. that will get into it from drilling and tapping than you'll gain by greasing it, especially if it is well sealed.
 
Conventional wisdom would be to use heavy grease on the drill bit to catch SOME of the chips, then use a self-tapping zerk.

Or, simply leave it alone!
 
I agree with Paul,leave it alone.Unless you use the tractor a lot,the repair will probably outlast you.
 
I prefer greasable tie rod and drag link ends...however, if they come w/o a grease fitting, I leave them that way. The factory ends on my 4600 didn't have fittings, and lasted 5000+ hours.
 
You might use a sharp punch, to make a hole and find a push in grease fitting. Then you might end up with a big mess if that didn't work. Stan
 
We drilled and tapped the center of a couple of them years ago. Found they wore about the same as a sealed one...

Rod
 
Along with BCnT says I have also magnetized the bit.

Wrap a wire around it forming a coil maybe half the bit length and touch both ends to a battery.
 
On the ones I have that do not have a grease zerk I use a needle fitting to apply some grease between the rubber seal and the shaft.
 

years ago in auto mechanic's class our teacher had us take an old normal drill bit and sharpen it backwards/run the drill in reverse.

Dave
 
If you're set on adding it, I normally grease the tap as well as the drill bit, go a little ways, stop, clean grease and filings out of flukes, then regrease, repeat until done. It takes awhile, but catch alot of the filings.
Lithium grease (white lube) works, but just about any grease will.
Just my thoughts, I could be wrong.
 
My plan was to drill about a 1/8" hole and then wallow that out to about the size of the tap drill. Thin cover would only allow about 1 thread on the zerk to grab whereas if you wallowed out the hole you could get about 2 or 3 threads to grab.
But now you all have me wondering if it even needs a zerk. Good point.
I'll have to do some thinkering on that.
 
I use those zerk fittings that have 1/4-28 threads. I put them on my Troy Bilt tiller where the mount slides on the posts when engaging or disengaging the drive belt. Hal
 
I've made the same repair on my fords. You cook out most of the factory grease when you weld so I agree that a fitting needs to be put back. I usually try to find a tie rod end that already has a fitting but if it doesn't I use a little grease on the drill bit and then use a strong magnet to get as much of the shavings as possible.
 
Did the same thing on my 81 231.
Magnetized a drill and used a lot of heavy grease while drilling to grab the chips. Then tapped, with grease on the tap. Thread in new zerk.

Does it work???? As other said below, the factory ones are sealed. They made it 25 years on mine before having to be replaced, with a lot of sitting outside before I bought it.

I just like the idea of a grease zerk, versus sealed.

Rick
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top