Case Hydraulic cylinder seal replacement - pics

bc · Apr 10, 2011

Hi, I've got some leaking seals on my Case model 33 backhoe hydraulic cylinders. One stablizer and one swing cylinder has always leaked a little out the end. Now the boom cylinder is leading enough that sometimes it blows out the seal and leaks off when sitting. I can't chase that leak so its time to fix them. As far as I know, the piston packings hold and work just fine.

The boom cylinder has a 2 1/4" shaft and 5" cylinder. The stabilizer has a 1 3/4" shaft and a 4 5/8" cylinder. The pics should show where the seal is blown on the boom cylinder which I partially unscrewed. It has a flat rubber washer and 1/8" oring on the outside.

There is a pic of the stabilizer cylinder where I unscrewed the end collar. It has an 1/8" o-ring on the outside but no flat rubber washer like the boom cylinder. I can't see how to get at the seal and replace it. The pic of the stabilizer end collar shows a dime sized round place in the threads that apparently is filled with silicone.

Can anyone tell me how to get at the seals to replace them and how far do I need to tear them down to do it? Any parts online? Thanks for your help.

bc · Apr 10, 2011

Pics don't show. I'll try to upload them to this website.

bc · Apr 10, 2011

Here they are from the website. Top is the boom cylinder. 2nd one is the end seal on the boom. 3rd one is the end collar of the boom partially unscrewed. Bottom one is the stabilizer cylinder with the end collar screwed out and you can see the dime sized hole that is full of silicone or something. Thanks for the help.

TGP · Apr 11, 2011

You need to unpin them slide the rod and piston out of the Cyl. Remove the bolt ob the end of the rod ,remove the piston,slide the gland off and replace the seals in the order you removed them.
A seal kit for each cylinder will have everything you need.
Patience /cleanliness is key here.

The bolt on the rod will have been Lock-tight and could be stubborn.
The dime shaped plug on the gland is to help keep it from unscrewing.
Tom

Offandgone · Apr 11, 2011

If your rod is scratched or nicked it will continue to leak with new seals. If it isn't scratched too bad you may be able to smooth it up and get it to hold. Those cylinders are in a bad location and get damaged often.

Frank

bc · Apr 11, 2011

Thanks Tom. Does the rod and piston just slide out the end or is it screwed in to something?

The last/only cylinder I repaired was the 2 way steering cylinder on the front bolster. As I recall, I had to put the end in the vice to unscrew the rod. Guess when I get the rod out, I will have to put one end in the vice or repin it to break that nut. These are a little bigger and heavier than that steering cylinder. Have to get a skyhook to help pull the rod out of the boom cylinder. I assume I can leave the bottom end of the cylinder pinned and pull the rod out?

Back when I got the thing, I went to casece website and they listed 4 different piston packings so I guess I'll have to take them and maybe the rod to a hydraulic place that carries the seal kits to make sure I get the right ones. May as well do it all if I have it open. As I recall with the steering cylinder, I wished I had a ring compressor to slide the piston back in the barrel.

Off: the rods have always looked to be in good shape. Those end seals just look old and cracked. I don't use it that much anyway. But its parking spot is probably an epa superfund site so I need to fix the leaks. Next project would be to go through the valves, particularly for the swing cylinders as those seem to be sticky and jerky making it hard to just move a couple inches.

cannonball · Apr 11, 2011

Try here for repair parts........... you might have to call them to get correct parts.........

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/pages.php?pageid=67
Untitled URL Link

TGP · Apr 11, 2011

(quoted from post at 01:04:50 04/11/11) Thanks Tom. Does the rod and piston just slide out the end or is it screwed in to something?

The last/only cylinder I repaired was the 2 way steering cylinder on the front bolster. As I recall, I had to put the end in the vice to unscrew the rod. Guess when I get the rod out, I will have to put one end in the vice or repin it to break that nut. These are a little bigger and heavier than that steering cylinder. Have to get a skyhook to help pull the rod out of the boom cylinder. I assume I can leave the bottom end of the cylinder pinned and pull the rod out?

Back when I got the thing, I went to casece website and they listed 4 different piston packings so I guess I'll have to take them and maybe the rod to a hydraulic place that carries the seal kits to make sure I get the right ones. May as well do it all if I have it open. As I recall with the steering cylinder, I wished I had a ring compressor to slide the piston back in the barrel.

Off: the rods have always looked to be in good shape. Those end seals just look old and cracked. I don't use it that much anyway. But its parking spot is probably an epa superfund site so I need to fix the leaks. Next project would be to go through the valves, particularly for the swing cylinders as those seem to be sticky and jerky making it hard to just move a couple inches.

Yes just pull's out of the Cyl.
There not that heavy. (just did mine) pull out by hand and I'm no spring chicken!
Leave the barrel(Cyl) pinned.
There are numerous afytermarket parts site's on the web.
Tom

TGP · Apr 11, 2011

(quoted from post at 07:12:46 04/11/11)

(quoted from post at 01:04:50 04/11/11) Thanks Tom. Does the rod and piston just slide out the end or is it screwed in to something?

The last/only cylinder I repaired was the 2 way steering cylinder on the front bolster. As I recall, I had to put the end in the vice to unscrew the rod. Guess when I get the rod out, I will have to put one end in the vice or repin it to break that nut. These are a little bigger and heavier than that steering cylinder. Have to get a skyhook to help pull the rod out of the boom cylinder. I assume I can leave the bottom end of the cylinder pinned and pull the rod out?

Back when I got the thing, I went to casece website and they listed 4 different piston packings so I guess I'll have to take them and maybe the rod to a hydraulic place that carries the seal kits to make sure I get the right ones. May as well do it all if I have it open. As I recall with the steering cylinder, I wished I had a ring compressor to slide the piston back in the barrel.

Off: the rods have always looked to be in good shape. Those end seals just look old and cracked. I don't use it that much anyway. But its parking spot is probably an epa superfund site so I need to fix the leaks. Next project would be to go through the valves, particularly for the swing cylinders as those seem to be sticky and jerky making it hard to just move a couple inches.

Click to expand...

Yes just pull's out of the Cyl.
There not that heavy. (just did mine) pull out by hand and I'm no spring chicken!
Leave the barrel(Cyl) pinned.
There are numerous afytermarket parts site's on the web.
Tom

Oh and the barrel is tappered at the end so the piston will go back in with a little wiggle.
The piston and gland will be a lot tighter to push though due to the new seals.
TGP

Offandgone · Apr 11, 2011

If that one has the peddle swing you should look for a grease fitting where the peddles pivot. The 580 backhoe would always get jerky and hard to swing smooth when they needed grease.
Frank

shaun wallace · Apr 11, 2011

Most case bh cyl have a # stamped on rod gland face where spanner pin holes are. These identfy the cyl. Yes they used different kits and some will swap into other cyl.

geok · Apr 11, 2011

Just in case you might not know. The one mistake that many make on repairing cylinders is that the seal you see on the out side of the gland is in fact not a seal. It is a wiper. The wiper edge should be pointed outwards as the old one are now. The rod seal in on the bottom of the gland.

bc · Apr 11, 2011

Thanks guys. I pulled the stab rod out. It was stuck so I started it up and pumped it out most of the way. It came easy then and my boots needed oiled anyway.

Then I didn't have a 1 1/2" wrench. Tried a cresent and cheater pipe but it is tight and the crescent won't stay on. Haven't decided whether to buy a wrench or a socket. Not much shoulder area even for a wrench which may slip off as well so I'm leaning towards an impact socket.

I've checked every gland and none have any stamped numbers. Looks like it is a split piston as both sides have 4 narrow piston flat ring rubbers side by side. Guess I'll have to get that bolt out before I can get the gland off to see if it has U or S style wipers and seals inside of it. Found a place out of Casper, Equipment Specialists, who get only 20 to 25 bucks per seal kit.

Looks like it might be a week to get parts and get it done but so far it hasn't been to bad. Even the pin came out fairly easy. Guess I'll have to make some kind of a yoke wrench to remove those glands. Gots to be easier than a hammer and punch.

Anyone grease the rubbers before going back in?

TGP · Apr 12, 2011

(quoted from post at 23:52:26 04/11/11) Thanks guys. I pulled the stab rod out. It was stuck so I started it up and pumped it out most of the way. It came easy then and my boots needed oiled anyway.

Then I didn't have a 1 1/2" wrench. Tried a cresent and cheater pipe but it is tight and the crescent won't stay on. Haven't decided whether to buy a wrench or a socket. Not much shoulder area even for a wrench which may slip off as well so I'm leaning towards an impact socket.

I've checked every gland and none have any stamped numbers. Looks like it is a split piston as both sides have 4 narrow piston flat ring rubbers side by side. Guess I'll have to get that bolt out before I can get the gland off to see if it has U or S style wipers and seals inside of it. Found a place out of Casper, Equipment Specialists, who get only 20 to 25 bucks per seal kit.

Looks like it might be a week to get parts and get it done but so far it hasn't been to bad. Even the pin came out fairly easy. Guess I'll have to make some kind of a yoke wrench to remove those glands. Gots to be easier than a hammer and punch.

Anyone grease the rubbers before going back in?

You need to remove the Hyd. lines at the ends of the Cyl. tube to relieve air/fluid lock before pulling rod/gland out.
Yes you need a large vise(rod pin end) and a impact/socket.
The bolt is Very tight and loctighted.
A little grease goes a Loong way on installation.
Tom

bc · Apr 12, 2011

Well I got the stab cylinder broke loose. Impact wouldn't budge it but a 24" pipe wrench with a 3 foot cheater pipe finally did.

Here are some pics. I can't seem to match this style yet. It has 3 pieces I got out so far and maybe an inch wide piece towards the outside end that I don't know if it is hard rubber or metal.

The inside end of the gland had a flat rubber washer and inside a little further was an o ring and plastic parts that were broke.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Case Hydraulic cylinder seal replacement - pics

bc

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