Hayliner 273 shear pin

Anonymous-0 · Mar 7, 2011

We have an old New Holland Hayliner 273 baler that busts the fly-wheel shear pin after about every 10-15 bales. Some days we can do a whole field and not have a problem. When it happens the chute arm hits the dog ear that should be retracted when the counter bar flips. (please forgive the descriptions) the baler is in time and there aren't any other problems. Any help? Also there is a spring on an adjustable shaft that I've tightened all the way up to retract the dog-ear. It got better but is still "clunky"

Mike (WA) · Mar 7, 2011

With mine, I found that Grade 2 bolts by the pound at the farm store were just too soft. I made sure everything was in time, and put in a Grade 5. It eventually wore out too, after several hundred bales, but I think it would have protected everything had the need arose.

Casey in Ky · Mar 7, 2011

I would start by looking at your plunger stop(just in front of the bale chute side tire). Make sure it is adjusted properly(per the manual, if you don't have one, get one, New Holland has an online ordering site just for manuals). Or if the plunger stop is adjusted correctly(I'm thinking it has a spring on it, I'll look at mine a little later and see), then see if you have any play in your needles. If they are not returning all the way to home position, then that'll cause the plunger to hit the stop, shearing your bolt. Good places to start.

timberjack · Mar 7, 2011

Make sure your knotter brake is tight enough. If its loose the needles will coast in just enough for the stop to hit the plunger. Been out on many service calls because of this. When the plunger dog is in the home pisition it should be flush with the side of the chamber if I remember right.

chuck41 · Mar 7, 2011

Bill, BE SURE that you use genuine shear pins. Do
not use a substitute. Chuck

Tx Jim · Mar 7, 2011

All sq balers that I've worked on have a brake of some description to hold needle frame in home position when tying cycle just begins. I think the needle brake(part # 74896 DISC Disc, Clutch) needs tightening or new linings. It is very important that the plunger head stop dog is operable or if baler jumps time then the needles and needle frame can get bent/broken

showcrop · Mar 7, 2011

While servicing my baler last spring I adjusted the brake to spec. I was amazed at how far out it had gotten in only about 12,000 bales

Paul from MI · Mar 7, 2011

After shearing many times the holes on each side can become worn. This will cause the shear bolt to stretch before actually shearing, which will cause the shear bolt to shear under a lower load than it should. Might be part of your problem. Most likely though, is that the needles aren't staying in retracted position when the plunger starts moving, which will activate the stop dog.

MR LUCKY · Mar 7, 2011

ARE YOU PUTTING LOCK NUTS ON THE SHEAR BOLTS? ARE SURE THEY ARE NOT COMING LOOSE JUST BEFORE THEY BREAK?

Anonymous-0 · Mar 7, 2011

Bingo, timberjack, you get the cookie! Most of the time that 10-15 bale rhythm of breaking bolts is the needle brake. Inspect the linings, replace, if necessary, and tighten to spec. By all means, check out other causes, but most of the time, this is the fault.

pete 23 · Mar 7, 2011

I will agree on the brake mechanism on knotter. That head has to hold it's positon after the length meter trips until it is driven at proper time during tying cycle. If needles move when tripped before they are supposed to the plunger stop moves into chamber and bingo, there goes the shear pin, doing what it is supposed to do , protect the needles.

Hurst · Mar 7, 2011

In addition to the needle brake, we had a problem with our 311 where the lever that moves the stop in and out actually cracked and eventually got to where it bent and the block would catch the plunger every few bales. Not very common, but might be something to check out if the problem keeps going.

Hurst

JDseller · Mar 7, 2011

MIKE please go buy the correct shear bolts for your baler. They are not just common bolts. They have different shoulder lengths on them. Is chancing whipping out needles, needle farms and maybe the knotters worth saving a few dollars on bolts??????

Had a baler brought to me two years ago. The guy wanted to get done on a Sunday and did not have the correct shear bolt. He drove a grade five bolt into the flywheel with a two pound hammer to "make" it fit. He did not check to see what sheared the first bolt, pin had fell out of needle lift arm. So after he "installed" his bolt. He revved the tractor up to get the plug to go through. Well his shear bolt worked in driving the baler but it did not shear. He broke both needles, needle frame, plunger stop and mount, and both knotter frames. Only cost him $2600 dollars in parts. Baler was just three years old. When I tuned up his baler this last spring I noticed he had three bags of shear bolts in the tool box. LOL

MI Bill G · Mar 8, 2011

A few years ago I had a similar problem that Bill Duebber had. Found that the hole in the flywheel was worn as you described and I replaced the flywheel bushing and cured the problem.

Hayliner 273 shear pin

Anonymous-0

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Mike (WA)

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Casey in Ky

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timberjack

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chuck41

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Tx Jim

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showcrop

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Paul from MI

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MR LUCKY

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Anonymous-0

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pete 23

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Hurst

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JDseller

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MI Bill G

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