OT - Microwave Oven Problem

Hi Guys, very off topic but I have seen this asked before but can't find the thread.

I have a nine year old Whirlpool Microwave Oven/Range Hood combination that quit heating. It comes on and the rotating table rotates but there is a popping/sizzling sound from the electronics area. Everything seems to work but will not heat.

Any suggestions - replace with new, or is there a easy fix with replacing internal components?

Thanks,

Dean

I used to asseble microwaves at a litton plant. My guess is the magnatron is toast. Probably cheaper to by a new than to fix. Do not know if you can buy that specific part or not. It is the main componet that creats the cooking/heating.

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

Hope the link comes through.

look inside and see if it has push type pins holding the top cover on or a way to remove it.pull it out and you will find a metal fan blade,this is called the distributor fan. turn on microwave and make sure its turning.some were belt driven,some just turned from force of air blowing across them.make sure its clean,and that it turns freely.sparking and popping generally means magnatron and all related parts are working,but burning grease or moisture has eaten through paint and bare metal is showing.You can buy paint at any parts house to touch it up.dist fan is metal but because it turns it doesnt spark just reflects microwave energy around inside of cabinet evenly.without it unit will not cook or heat evenly because its only heating in one small spot.keypad and all is low voltage and wont spark,120volt all the way until high voltage transformer is fuse protected so any sparks or shorts would blow fuse,diode would burn out, so sparks more than likely are from the energy radiated from magnatron.if it was tube itself it would die very quickly.( something like 50,000 volts there) hope this helps!I'm not even sure you could replace one of those nowdays.been many years since I sold and repaired appliances but those were always a problem,moisture in keypads caused all kinds of trouble on the early ones.

And if you choose to change out the magnetron yourself, be sure you know what you"re doing. There"s LETHAL voltages in there, and if not handled properly, Well....

Your only problem is finding a place to put the debris pile from the replacement.

Why not work on it yourself. What's the worst that can happen? Only that you will also cease to work.

Gordo

Couple hundred bucks at your local home improvement store. That"s a better deal than a burial plot.
Mine recently went out while making my breakfast. Had a replacement installed and cooking breakfast inside of two hours.
A little irritating that the light bulb lasted longer than the oven but, what are you gonna do? I got mad and cussed, it didn"t help, so I bought a new oven.

Back when microwave ovens were assembled in the good 'ol US of A, it was cost-efficient to have them repaired. I remember a huge section in the MCM electronics catalog that sold magnetron tubes for the ovens.
With all of them now being made in China, just replace the whole thing. My $.02 worth.
If you DO decide to work on it, remember that microwave ovens kill more people than any other type of appliance.

Does it show any codes on the screen? If so google the codes. Kinda sounds like mine, it was the magnetron. I bought one off the net, fixed the problem. Mark

Our last microwave was $39. Worked great for about five years.

Last magnatron I replaced cost more than a new microwave. Toss it and go buy a new one.

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the graphic input. It was electrifying.

To back up what some of you are saying, I contacted a factory recommended serviceman locally who works on all brands of all types of household appliances. He said he would test it for $40. And he would order and replace any parts needed for the additional cost of the parts. He suggested I buy a new microwave oven instead.

I live remote from the big box stores, but will go in and pick one up sometime next week.

Dean

While microwaves DO contain a power supply that produces 1500 to 2000 Volts DC at enough power to kill you, and an oil-filled capacitor capable of storing power for a short while after it's powered down (typically shunted by a resistor that bleeds it down within a couple of minutes of shutdown) can you supply reliable information about ANYONE who has actually been KILLED by one (much less the multiple deaths you allude to)?

You are exaggerating the actual voltage by a factor of 25 to 33 TIMES!

20 years ago friend who was a appliance service tec
was killed serviceing a thermador portable saw him
put in the ground. his wife worked in the shop with
him and saw the whole thing less then 30 yrs old

ever discharged a cap on one of these?