JD 2010 PTO problem

I am considering a purchase of a 1964 JD 2010. I haven't read a lot of good things about the 2010 on the board but it does run and look good. It does have a PTO problem that will need to be fixed so I do know that going in. I don't farm alot , just plow snow and do a little brush hogging occasionally. Is this something that I should stay away from even if I can get it at a decent price? Thanks in advance...
 
what kind of problem, and what type of pto system.

I helped my stepfather rebuild the independent pto on his 2240 after someone used a tiller with way too long a pto shaft and it pushed the tractor pto shaf tin ruining the bearing carrier, and the plates in the independent pto clutch, and some snap rings.. etc. a lil over 600$ in parts and a couple days labor doing casual work.. that and a split... one part, some assy with a compressed spring we had the jd shop take apart and put back together since they had the machine to do it.. just charged us a service charge.. was worth it IMHO..

soundguy
 
Thanks, Guys. Seems like I better not take the chance on this tractor. I also got info from a mechanic near by that mentioned something not good pertaining to the steering hydraulics not being all that dependable.
Thanks again..
 
My Uncle had a 2010 row crop utility and he never took care of anything and it had the deisel engine and like the Timex add, TOOK A LIKEN AND KEPT ON. I don't know how that tractor kept going but it did. And if they have the gas engine that is a very good engine and was also used on the combines. His was overloaded on the PTO all the time.
 
They are a good tractor in my eye's.Use ours for various tasks on the farm.Has good power,steers on a dime and seems to have enough weight in it to pull heavier equipment.The pto is not bad to work on .Older tractors all need a little work.I think you would be happy with it.Thanks BlaineF(WA)

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I bet it feels like some weight on it between the mower and that tank on the seat in the top picture, if it is full. But where do you sit to drive? LOL
 
I forgot to say we bought a new 2010 Diesel to replace a 52 JD B. It wouldn't pull the 4 row corn planter as fast as the B (power block). Dealer came and got it put on dynometer and it had just 36 hp. They did everything to it including new pistons and sleeve plate. If you turned the fuel up it just smoked and lost power. sent it back with 38 hp. It was supposed to have 45 hp. Traded it for a 801 Ford Diesel. It was supposed to have 42 hp really had 50. A real good Tractor our neighbor still has it. And it has had a loader it's entire life. Vic
 
I am usually a John Deere supporter but I have to agree with most here on the 2010. We had one qt the dairy that all we did with it normally was pull a pto driven Manure pump. After about 50 hours of pumping which was about 1.5 hours a day I noticed that I could smell something like clutch burning and I noticed that it looked like the shaft was slowing. I went over and sure enough the PTO clutch was slipping. Took it into the shop and they repaired in under warranty and they told me that you cant run the PTO without the tractor moving because if the differential isn't turning it won't lubricate the PTO properly. so we didn't even bring it back. we just traded it and $1500 for a 2020. No more problems.
Nothing is cheep to fix and everything will end up needing to be fixed. Neighbor had one and was putting a new clutch in it about once a year. Injectors had to be cleaned every 100 operating hours or the screens would plug. Never did figure that out. I'd steer away form this one. By the way we still have the 2020. just change the filters and fluids. Engine has never been opened nor any of the cases and original clutch. Still sealed with John Deere Green. LarrT
 

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