On a Jubilee NAA, when changing a 6 volt system to a 12 volt system, what all needs to be changed? The starter can remain the same 6 volt. and you have to change the alternator. Does the coil have to be changed to 12 volt and what is the type of coil to use if it has to be changed? Is a car coil okay or not? Also is there any other things like wires, solenoid or whatever that needs to be changed as well. Thanking you all in advance for any help you might be able to give.
- Thread starter johnnymac
- Start date
You need something to make 13.5-14.5 volts to charge the battery. The standard coil is fine, just add a resistor. If you have any light bulbs anywhere, they will also need to be changed. That's about it.
When you add a resistor, you can do it several different ways. Many later Ford tractors with 12 volt systems use heat-reactive resistors that eliminate the need for any bypass system. They automatically give full voltage at cranking, and taper back once warmed up. Or just use a conventional ballast resistor and relay with bypass.
Using what many call a "6 volt" coil with a resistor will give you better cold starting potential, then using a non-resistor type coil that many call "12 volt."
The vast majority of cars, trucks, and tractors with breaker-point igntions, used the same coils on 6 volt and 12 volt systems.
When you add a resistor, you can do it several different ways. Many later Ford tractors with 12 volt systems use heat-reactive resistors that eliminate the need for any bypass system. They automatically give full voltage at cranking, and taper back once warmed up. Or just use a conventional ballast resistor and relay with bypass.
Using what many call a "6 volt" coil with a resistor will give you better cold starting potential, then using a non-resistor type coil that many call "12 volt."
The vast majority of cars, trucks, and tractors with breaker-point igntions, used the same coils on 6 volt and 12 volt systems.
That is always my question.
If everything is working properly, a 6 volt system will do everything you need including start well. Unless you are adding some incredible electrical load, the value will not drop with the original generator like it does when you bolt on an alternator.
If it is not working, fix what is wrong.
If I see an alternator on any antique tractor, the owner does not need to say anything else about how "original" it is, it is ruined.
There is no question that an alternator charges at idle and charges at higher output. But who needs that on a tractor? You are not suppose to lug old tractor engines around anyway.
So, if it is about increased efficently, I am sure you will also add halogen headlights and digital gauges, right? LOL
If everything is working properly, a 6 volt system will do everything you need including start well. Unless you are adding some incredible electrical load, the value will not drop with the original generator like it does when you bolt on an alternator.
If it is not working, fix what is wrong.
If I see an alternator on any antique tractor, the owner does not need to say anything else about how "original" it is, it is ruined.
There is no question that an alternator charges at idle and charges at higher output. But who needs that on a tractor? You are not suppose to lug old tractor engines around anyway.
So, if it is about increased efficently, I am sure you will also add halogen headlights and digital gauges, right? LOL
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
12V does give him that option,,, options 6V luvbbers don't have LOL
i changed my '62 2000 over about 35 years ago...change the polarity to negative ground,hook up the alternator,put a old porcelain type ballast resistor ['65 dodge if the kid behind the counter dont know] on it for the ignition,and change the bulbs...if your Jubilee has a generator lite instead of a ammeter just change it to 12 volt bulb too and use it for the exciter circuit on alternator instead of a diode.
my dad swore up and down the dust would kill that alt in a week...35 years later it still works like a champ.
my dad swore up and down the dust would kill that alt in a week...35 years later it still works like a champ.
True that they have the option, but when is the last time you saw an antique tractor with halogen lights AND digital guages>
If someone wants a tractor for work & power, the newer ones are much more efficient aside from having an ugly alternator that makes more power than Mother Nature at rest. LOL
If someone wants a tractor for work & power, the newer ones are much more efficient aside from having an ugly alternator that makes more power than Mother Nature at rest. LOL
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
Stop by someday,,, if I can make mine better I do,,, I do not have to live with just enuff that it may get by,,, I do understated most 6V luvbbers think'n,,, they don't know how to convert and skeered,,, his tractor is one of the EZ ones and well worth the effort... His tractor is a plug and play deal for 12V's...
wh
Well-known Member
i changed al 4 of my 6v tractors to 12v alt. reasons are simple - batteries easier to get ,batteries cheaper, easier to jump start, better lights, flashing warning lights for road use. of course my tractors are daily users and not trailer queens. your tractor, do what you want to it.
I beg to differ. I have a brand new 6v system on my M, and it REFUSES to start in these cold Michigan winters. It's about -12 degrees today, and my M with a brand new 6v TSC battery, brand new 0 Gauge wires, freshly cleaned shiny ground connections, and new starter switch just will not spin over quick enough to fire up when it's this cold. My 6v H will start every time, but my M will just not do it. So I think I'm going to switch it to 12v.
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