HARD STARTING 4010!!!!!!

Anybody have a clue on what to look for in the hydro system that would cause it to stall the starter out? Engine cranks until pressure is built then then it cranks really hard. If you let the 3pt settel down or turn the steering wheel it cranks ok. Once runnning you can here the remote blocks under the hood singing like your dead heading a cyl. Crazist Da@ thing I've come across. Just wondering if it's easy fix or dealer time? Thank's Trucker ps IT'S A GASSER.

we started a 3020 and a 2510 a great many times by turning the steering wheel while cranking - only way they would crank

Used to have a 3010 gas that ALWAYS cranked slow. We suffered with it for years until one time it was up at the shop for some other work and the mechanic hopped on and turned the steering wheel while he cranked it. I couldn't believe it. Had no idea about that trick until then.

Anyway, I've heard people here say there's a way fix it, but I can't remember what the fix is exactly. Something to do with a hydraulic relief valve I think. The easiest fix is to crank the steering wheel while you crank the starter.

Instead of the half baked wiggle the wheel thing. Splurge a whole $15.00 on a destroker kit from JD.
It unloads the pump from trying to pump. Instead of just trying to keep system pressure low by leaking oil through the power steering.

(quoted from post at 01:19:59 11/07/10) Instead of the half baked wiggle the wheel thing. Splurge a whole $15.00 on a destroker kit from JD.
It unloads the pump from trying to pump. Instead of just trying to keep system pressure low by leaking oil through the power steering.

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Or one could install this and not have to get off after starting to back de-stroking screw out.
Part Number: RE40463
Part Price: 575.00 USD
Description: KIT, HYDRAULIC PUMP ELEC DESTROKE

(quoted from post at 21:20:13 11/06/10)Once runnning you can here the remote blocks under the hood singing like your dead heading a cyl. Crazist Da@ thing I've come across. Just wondering if it's easy fix or dealer time? .

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The poppet valves need adjustment or replacement in the scv under the hood. Doesn't have to performed by a dealer but does require a qualified technician.

Thanks guy's I will check with the dealer for the destroking kit. Does this hurt the pump when running and it sound's like it's dead heading? Thank's Trucker

Actually on a closed-center system if it dead heading then the stroke control valve is mal-functioning. The stroke control valve job is to stop the main pump from pumping oil when pressure reaches a pre-set psi(2250 psi if set to factory specs).

What you're probably hearing is main hyd pump pumping very hard to keep up with the internal leak.

A not too expensive starting fix for my 4020 gas, was to replace the pathetic Delco 10 MT starter with a Delco 20 MT . It bolts right on and has twice the cranking power of the OEM 10MT.

That starter change took it from a rig that struggled at every start and required the steering wheel wiggle every time, to a rig that starts instantly and actually has to slow down to hit idle speed. The load of the hyd pump means nothing with that powerful starter.

I stayed away from the pump destroking kits because the manual kit is an absolute pain in the donkey with you needing to get down and turn it on / off at every start, and the electric destroker kit is outrageously expensive at near $600.
Actually if your able to rebuild a starter, you can convert a 10 MT to a 20 MT by installing a salvage yard 20 MT field housing, bolts and armature in your old 10 MT starter.
Otherwise a complete Rebuilt starter from a good company like Wilson, is not all that expensive.

With the 20 MT starter and no destroke kit, turning on that 20 MT rocks the tractor a bit on the tires and it cranks at a steady guestimated 400 rpm. This is with an single Exide Orbital spiral cell AGM battery, kind of a clone of the Optima red top, but $40 cheaper.