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shearbolt locknuts

C

ChrisLSD

Member
the flywheel shearbolt breaks often in my small square baler... it breaks because the hole is wallowed out from old age, so the plunger and flywheel combination loosen up the bolt then it is real loose, then breaks......
running the PTO speed faster helps quite a little (it also breaks often when you are running empty - in the windrow it isn't as bad.....
ANYWAY, I think if I could keep the bolt tight it would help, but I have tried lock washers and double nuts without any help...plus every time the bolt shears I usually lose the nuts.....

Would those stay tight nuts with the plastic-like stuff in them stay better or what would help?
 
Your best bet is to either drill that hole out and make it the next size up or if it is the type of baler with the bushings replace the bushings. But yes a good lock type bolt will help and I know every factory shear bolt I have seen are a lock type nut with either the plastic or knock in type lock in them
 
What type of baler do you have?
It seems that you have isolated the problem that your flywheel or the area where the shear bolt goes is causing the breakage. When it gets loose it wobbles and gets kind of a running start to break the bolt.
It may be a better idea to get this hole drilled to the next size up and use a different size shear bolt that would fit tight into the hole.

Nylock (sp) nuts may hold, but I would think that the shear bolts you are getting have lock nuts with them. Many of the ones I used to get were simply steel lock nuts.
 
ChrisLSD,
I agree with Old and Colekicker: Drill out the holes to get a round hole where the bolt doesn't flop around. Nylock nuts (while a good idea) won't help you with this problem. You can't get the bolt tight enough in an oversized hole to keep it from moving side-to-side. This movement lets the opposing pieces get some momentum to accomplish the shear.
 
You guys keep talking about drilling out the hole.Isnt the bushing hardened?then it may be too hard to drill.What about replaceing the insert?
 
I have had better luck, with a nylock lock nut staying tight, than the stover (crush) lock nuts that the shear bolts come with. If you want to save the nut, a 4" piece of duct tape over the top, generally will stay on long enough, to save the nut till the next breakage.
 
It was drilled before heattreating.every baler i've been around has a hard buahing pressed into the flywheel
 
What kind of baler do you have?

Is there a hardened insert surrounding the bolt in one or both parts?

If so, have you checked to see if new inserts are available for your particular machine?
 
I replaced the one in my 269 last winter.All it takes is a little heat,hammer and a punch.If I remember the insert was only about $12.00.Good Luck.
 
have an early 70's vintage Allis 442 baler - waiting for rain now - I have a new insert in the flywheel - but the hole even the insert goes in isn't too pure - but the driven portions problem seems to be two fold - it is a slight bit away from fitting flush (probably could cure with a big hammer if the driveline was all taken off) and that hole doesn't appear to have any bushing... you guys gave me a couple ideas - always hope for a better next year and some time to repair..........
 
Whatever else you do, see that the shear bolt is tight, and check it often. Loose bolts will shear more often than tight ones.
 
John Deere flywheel shear bolts come with lock nuts. Lock washers on a shear bolt is useless. I would use lock nuts or double nut it. As for the hole being worn unless it has a replaceable insert there is not any easy fixes for that.
I started out with an old NH 67 baler. If you did not shut off the PTO on the end and drove to the next windrow empty it would shear the pin. Never could figure why. So I just shut it off on the ends.
 
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