OT Best bang for buck in a USED 3/4-ton truck for towing.

Nofbdybs

Member
First off, this truck will be used very little. Say, 4,000 miles a year.


Anyhow, ever since dad retired, he has lost the need for a heavy truck, and when he sold his business, he let all of the 3/4 and 1-ton trucks go with it. Now, he rolls around in a half ton silverado.

We are now in need of something that will tow up to 10,000llbs, give or take. We have a few small tractors that our half tons will pull, but if we get a 3/4ton, we will be using it for towing them. They dont weigh a lot, about 6,000lbs. Small Yanmar, Kubota, ect.
Mostly, we need the truck for our older tractor. Its a 720 JD. Also, we tend to pick up a few parts at each event, so something that would accomidate 10,0000lbs is what im guessing our need would be.



Again, this truck will see little use. Under 5k a year. So we are not being real picky. Nothing new. MPG is really not a concern due to the very few miles it will see a year.

Here are some options we are considering. All 3/4-tons. Dont need a dually, and really dont want to plop down the cash for a newer Diesel (Duramax and the like) No powerstrokes, other than the original 7.3 Dont care what year. Had to many bad experiences with them.


Here are my thoughts:


Dodge with cummins 12v or 24, really dont care. Auto or stick
GM with 454
GM with 8.1
7.3 Powerstroke

FWIW, dad had a 94 3/4 ton with a 454 and a 5-apd, and a 91 ford with a 460 and a 5-spd. Both were great trucks and handled our gooseneck fine.
That in mind, im not opposed to something along these lines.

As you can see, im not opposed to a gas burner. With the few miles it will see, the initial cost for a diesel over a gasser is just not smart.
With the excpetion of the Dodges. Used ones with a Cummins are VERY reasonable in this area.



Im really leaning toward a Extended cab cummins, say, 97.5 up to a 2004 or so. I really like the 12v cummins, and the 24 would be fine too.




Thoughts??
 
IF you are looking to buy a cummins, you need to do homework. There is a dowel pin that pops out of the front cover in the 12v's and if you are lucky it will just drop down into the oil pan but most of the time it will get sucked into the gears in the front cover and shred everything. I think the kit to fix this is 50$ and a hour or two of your time. 24V had a "53" block that was prone to cracking. im not sure how you identify it but its worth looking into on google. Good luck! can never go wrong with the 7.3!
 
I agree with the 7.3 Powerstroke Fords. They were great long lived trucks. GM 8.1 will almost keep up with a Duramax towing wise. Dodge? If they ever learn how to build a truck, Cummins built a good engine. I don't have back problems, but having ridden in a 2009 Dodge 2500 with a Cummins, mine started hurting.
 
If you can find one get a old Ford 250/350 with a 7.3. Make sure to get a manual tranny behind it. A 4 speed would be the best in the manuals. The 5 speed over drives in the early diesels tend to be a weak spot if used alot. I have a 1991 with a E4od auto in it. I hate that tranny. But the ride of that beast is secondend to none. I friend has been in a few trucks and always tells me the old ford rides the best. With very few mods to teh 7.3 you can really make them old girls work. Most noteably a exhaust mod of a 3 inch pipe from the Y back with no muffler will be a good increase. Also the removally of the soup bowl in the air cleaner lid and a K&N filter will wake them up. A little tweek to the injection pump and your good to go. Down the road you can always add a turbo and up grade the injectors.
On a trip to TN from wis I had a new idea 2 row mounted picked on a 18 car hauler. I ihad the mounting frame work and the husker unit too on there. I averaged on the way down 11 mpgs running in drive with 4.11 gears in the axles. Not bad for a old farm beater. My truck only has the mods done that does not include the turbo.
Bob
 
I have not been around the ford 7.3 but I have a been around the dodges. I have a 12 valve and will never get rid of it. the 24 valve are good engines but you have to make sure you watch the fuel pressure. they will run with out the transfer pump but run long enough it will do damage to the pump. it is the 99 model trucks that have the problem with cracking blocks. go with either the automatic or newer six speed the five speed like what I have do have some issues.
 
What about a Ford V10, 2001 or newer? I"ve got a couple of friends that have them and really like them. The first ones had some issues with the heads but I believe they solved that in the later ones. They are thirsty but pull good, I"ve seen them sell pretty cheap and the fords that I"ve had hold up very well. I"ve got a Dodge gas and I will never, never buy another Dodge. I might have a little better opinion if if it was a cummins but the truck is junk with only 75K miles. I"ve had pretty good luck with chevys and they seem to be selling cheaper lately.
 
What year Dodges have problems with the lift pump running low on pressure and ruining the high pressure pump? I have a 2003 Dodge ram.
 
it is any of the 24 valves from 98.5 to 02. an 03 has a common rail diesel and if the lift pump goes out on it you will know it because it will not run at all. 03 and up generally do not have high pressure pump issues but they do have injector problems. they will also cause a no start issue.
 
I've got a 92 Dodge 3/4 ton 4WD Ex-cab with Cummins 5.9 diesel (12 valve intercooled-turbo) with a five-speed Gertrag and love it. 3.50 axles, gets 18-20 MPG empty and is great for towing.

Also got a 94 Ford F250 3/4 ton 4WD Ex-cab with a 7.3 turbo-diesel (NOT a Powerstroke), and also love it. 4.10 axles and E40D auto-trans. Good tower, but not as good as the Dodge and gets a best of 15-17 MPG empty.

Both have mechanical injection systems that are very easy to maintain and work on. Both have been very reliable and both have close to 300K miles on them. The Dodge is better on fuel and better for towing and the Ford rides like a Cadillac.

The only thing that would prevent me from keeping them forever - is a diesel shortage, or rust.

Paid around $3000 each, 5-6 years ago. Pretty good investment.
 
8.1 chevy is the best in my book but pricey. very sought after around the midwest. horsepower and driveability. 2001 to 2007 are the yrs they were made.
 
I have the 12V Cummins in my 96 Dodge with handshaker. Great truck. All I've done is one valve adstment, one injection timing adjustment and ball joints one one side front. 140k miles so far.You don't need a kit to hold the dowel pin in. Just an oversized flat washer on the nearby bolt.
I have a list of four guys who want to buy my truck, and every once in a while they call to see if I still have it. I tell them to watch the Obits and then it will be for sale.
And yes it is a rough ride empty.

Gordo
 
i've got a 99 dodge 24valve. the "53" blocks are the ones that "crack" but thats hit and miss. On www.cumminsforumn.com they did a survey of 53 block owners. and it seemed hit and miss as to weather it cracked. i've got 185,000 on my truck and no cracks. if you look at one to buy look at the driver's side of the block from the bottom. if its cracked its under the intake manifold.
 
Yea, i used a piece of sheet metal once to install as a dowl pin retainer, but if it were my own truck i would probobly buy the kit as i think it comes with a seal or gasket ? im not sure though
 
I have a 1990 Dodge W350 with a 12 valve Cummins and a five speed. I have used and abused this truck since it was new. It and my gooseneck trailer weight 14500 lbs empty. In 350,000 miles injection pump twice and broke one head bolt. I would buy another Dodge with the Cummins in a flash. I don"t like the newer cab styles as well. I have a tall setting height and the new sloped wind shield make the head room shorter.
 
I'm a little late to this discussion, but here's my $.02. Take a good look at an F250/350 with the V10 before you buy anything. I bought a western (no rust) '01 F350 extended cab/long bed 4x4 with the V10/5-speed/3.73's and love it. Gets 15-16 mpg highway, and averages about 13 mpg for my day to day use, including when it's loaded or towing. No shortage of power. The V10's are much cheaper than any of the diesels around here.
 
Sometimes it takes an extra 2 or 3 seconds of cranking to start the truck. Is this a crank sensor problem? Your knowledge of this truck and such is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
I will not say that it is not possible but I would think you have a fuel pressure issue. one thing that is overlooked on these trucks is the overflow valve. it is in the fitting that attatches the fuel line to the high pressure pump. it has a ball and spring internal and allows the extra fuel to return to the tank.
 

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