IH tractor/loader/backhoe weight? Counterweights?

I'm trying to figure out the weight of a tractor/loader/hoe I've got parked in northern Michigan. I need a way of moving it between two properties I own about 15 miles apart. All flat roads, i.e. no big hills like here in NY. I've got a Ford F250 diesel truck also parked up there.
Has a gooseneck, ball, and pintle hitch on it.

I've got a chance to buy a 20' trailer cheap with dual Dexter 6000 lb. axles. I'm assuming it's got a safe load capacity around 9000 lbs.

The tractor is an International Harvester 3414 with loader, 3121 hoe on the rear, AND a stack of 8 counterweights in front.

I know that the tractor and front loader weighs around 5200 lbs. Rear 3121 backhoe must be around 3200 lbs. But what do those front weights weigh? Anybody know? Has a weight-box on front with 8 counterweights. Each weight is IH part # 381216R1.

I don't mind overloading this trailer a bit since it's a short, slow-speed trip with no hills - but I don't want to push things too far. I wouldn't dare try it at home in these NY hills with a 3/4 ton truck.

Here at home I've got a Deere 300B loader-backhoe that looks similar in size to the IH. But my Deere weighs 11,000 lbs. If the IH weighs anywhere near that much, I'm not going to chance it. Front counterweight on the Deere is one piece and weighs 574 lbs.

How often are you going to move it? Most of the time at the county we drive the backhoe from job to job. If that isn't an option I would look for a 10 ton trailer.

15 miles driving the backhoe will take 3 hours? Sounds like a lot, but getting the trailer hooked up, testing the lights, chaining it down, and driving to your location, will take maybe 2 hours? I was hobby farming a 10 acre patch, 20 miles away, and got to like the drive! And less drama than loading up the tractor by myself. I almost turned that thing over on myself when I slid off the ramp when it was wet. I'd just drive it. It isn't like youre gonna move it 10 tines a year?

Yeah, my original plan was to drive it back and forth, as needed . . . and maybe I will. My only concern are the various drip leaks it has. No big gushers, but enough to leave drops of oil, here and there as I go down the road. 10 years ago, it wouldn't worry me all. The way things are today? If the wrong person or cop sees me leaving any oil on the road, it could turn into a contrived "environmental disaster." But, there is in a very rural area and probably not a big deal.

I've already got a truck and a smaller trailer up there (that I use for a Deere 420 crawler/loader and Ford farm tractor). Just figured moving the hoe might be easier with a trailer if I found one cheap. Someone has a trailer for sale with dual 6000 lbs. axles for $850.

Assume nothing. The dual 6,000# axles will give you a total of 12,000# capacity. Subtract about 5,000# for the weight of the trailer and you"re down to 7,000# capacity. 5,200# for the tractor and loader plus 3,200# for the backhoe totals 8,400#. Guessing that the 8 counterweights weigh 75# each, that adds another 600#, which puts the total weight of the unit at 9,000#, which is 2,000# over the capacity of the trailer. What I don"t know, is how much of that weight is actually transferred to the truck, but guessing again, maybe 1/3 of the weight, or 3,000#, is on the truck, which results in only 6,000# on the trailer axles, so I think evrything will be O.K. Marginal yes, but it should get the job done.

Not enough trailer in my opinion. I'd drive it if the roads were not heavily traveled.

Unless it is leaking oil bad enough to leave a constant stream on the road I wouldn't worry about it. Are you on a paved or gravel road? Years ago we used to use oil out of the refinery and oil well brine on gravel roads for dust control. Those days are long gone.....

We did the same thing here 15-20 years ago, i.e., spread waste oil on dirt roads. Not any more, though. Some of the towns now spread calcium chloride on the dirts roads which is probably worse then the oil - in the long run.

A few years ago my transfercase blew to pieces on the Interstate. I was stuck and there was a nice wet-spot on the highway from a few quarts of Dextron. Soon the State Police showed up and made a huge deal over the big "oil spill." They were going to call some sort of haz-mat clean up team and charge me for it - but I finally convinced them not to after scrubbing the road with an old shirt and some paper towels. When they first showed up I actually thought they were going to help me out and maybe give me a ride? Nope. I only lived 5 miles away and wanted to come back with my truck and trailer.

The roads along the way in Michigan where my hoe is are paved and dirt. Very rural potato farming area not far from the Mac Bridge. Can't say I've ever even seen a cop there.

Jde,Just a thought.Wonder what the cost would be to have a local hauler do the hauling?Would the cost of the hauler be extreemly high? WE had a wrecker haul both tractor /Crawler home for us, and wasn"t expensive. Dut to economic times, you just might luck out with a local guy who isn"t busy. Just a thought. Hope it works out .Reguards. LOU& VICTOR

I need a way of moving it between two properties I own about 15 miles apart. All flat roads, i.e. no big hills like here in NY.

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For 15 miles, just drive it. MI isn't enviro-nazi like NY or CA. I've never even heard of a friend of a friend of an acquantence being harassed because of a leaking vehicle. As long as you have your Slow Moving Vehicle placard, you won't have any problems. Don't know how somebody figured three hours, though. Top speed in high gear, high range is like 18mph, so it shouldn't take more than an hour.

On a side note: JDemaris, since you seem to be the guru of all things 3414, could you tell me what year mine is? Ser# is 1176 with a gas engine. Based on the B414 numbers I found on external_link, the year and ser# of yours and the design of the seat, I'm thinking it's a '61 but I'd like confirmation and I can't seem to find good info anywhere.

Thanks!