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bar rake adjustment?

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Think that's what this is called??

Anyway.... Got all three tires holding air today and ready to go. It's a 3pt hitch machine but only for transport. The wheels carry it to work and it's PTO driven. Do I adlust it so it just skims the ground all the way across, or does it have to be higher on one side or the other?

Thanks,

Dave

a17070.jpg
 
I have the teeth just barely touch the ground all the way across - otherwise it doesn't get the stuff I mowed -

But of course if a row gets wet, then to spread it back out, I put the back way up - then it kinda picks the windrow back apart to aid in drying again
 
Dave,

My NH 256 bar rake is ground driven, but I think the principle is the same. I set mine so the the bar is close to the ground, but not touching. When I go over bumps and the tines hit the ground, it picks up dirt with the hay that ends up in the bales, so I don't want the tines to touch the ground under normal circumstances.

Good luck with new venture.

Tom in TN
 
Park it on level ground.

Probably use the hand crank on the right wheel/tire to raise/lower the right side of the rake.

Adjust height until you have about 1+ inch ground clearance on all the rake teeth on each bar.

Unless your hay field has a bunch of gopher mounds, stumps, or rocks this should work for you.

Don't want to "kick up" a lot of dirt when raking your hay into a windrow.

Hope this helps.
 
Rakes should be set just low enough to pick up all the hay off the stubble, without putting dirt in the windrow. Good reason to have a smooth hay field. Baling dirty hay is bad enough, but chopping it is tough on the knives. Always hated to chop anything that was raked.
 
Set the rake about where you think it'll run. Go a short distance. Adjust down if you're leaving hay, up if not. You want it just low enough to pick up all the hay, without touching the ground. Higher is better.

If you hear the scritch-scritch-scritch of the teeth hitting the ground all the time, you're too low. Leave hay rather than "de-thatch" the ground.
 
(quoted from post at 12:00:37 06/11/10) Leave hay rather than "de-thatch" the ground.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Now that you mentioned dethatching, I have a pasture that I just got and will use the first time this year for grazing. After the horses are finished, would adjusting this thing down and going over the place do the ground good without a lot of damage to the rake (other than the teeth)?

Dave
 
(quoted from post at 14:20:31 06/11/10) I'd say something but I'll not go as low as you have in the past
Click to expand...

Left my Super Secret Jim Beam Decoder Ring at home..... Can you explain?

Dave
 

Re dethatching pasture, trying to do that will tear up the rake teeth. They are designed to rake hay only, adjusted as the other posts said.

KEH
 
Spent my day driving up to Eldon by way of Osage Beach to get a part for my NH 460 boy what a pain in the back sides this time of year. Le as your wife has told you at times you do not have good people skills and leave it at that
 
Are you straddling the entire windrow when you do this? How do you roll a windrow over that has ben rained on?
Using an IH16 rake when necessary. Gehl 2160 Haybine for knocking alfalfa down.
GordoSD
 
Mine is similar - I have to be careful not to let the 3pr hitch down too far. If I let it down too far, and run through a dip, the rake drops down and the pto shaft comes apart - usually breaks the u-joint. Other than that, it's a great rake. Rake's rear wheels, and tractor supports the rake nicely.
 
Probably don't want to dethatch with your rake, but if you pull you chain harrow tines down it will do some of that for you. My grazing areas are pretty thick and the harrow kind of rolls up the thatch and drops it in clumps after the bundle gets large enough. It is actually more trouble than it is worth to me. Did not get all the thatch bundles picked up and then grass died under the thick mats that were left.

YMMV,

Kirk
 
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