Getting a broke spark plug out of the head?

I was trying to remove a spark plug from my '48 cub today and the spark plug broke while trying to remove it. The treaded portion is still in the head. Any ideas on how to remove it?
Thanks
Joel
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Did this in my 91 cad bout a month ago. Used a big ford tool screwdriver(grind so corners are sharp), spray with pb blaster for couple days, carefully fit screwdrive in plug and tap with hammer while trying to turn. When it turns even a fraction, reverse direction. I have cub too, and it looks easier than caddy. Good luck and go slow. Heat gun first may help or run on 3 cylinders a while to get heat up to temp.
 
Die grinder or hacksaw blade to cut through to the threads in the head at a couple places. Use a small chisel and collapse the cut section inward and repeat as needed. Do not use an E-Z out as it will force the threads together even more than they are now.
Clean the threads with a spark plug thread tap and use anti-sieze when installing new plugs.
 
Piece of cake if ya got a torch take a med sized welding tip and heat that broken plug cherry red and then walk away and let it cool have a beer and when the beer is gone install a ez out and it will come wright out been there done that .
 
the vets idea, or you will have the threads so screwed up you will be pullin the head to fix it.
 
Heating the head a little around the outside of the broken piece will help as well. If you can, turn the engine over so the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder. This way you won't get it too hot. It probably won't take that much heat to get it out with an easy out. The square easy outs are better than the spiral ones. Dave
 
Heat the head around the spark plug not to hot. Then use an easy out to remove it. Safest way so that you don't hurt the head.
Walt
 
Heating the area around the broken plug does not work very well because the cast iron takes so long to heat that the broken piece will also get just as hot or hotter defeating the reason for the heat. It can help with aluminum heads but not for cast iron.

The Tractor Vet's method works much better. By heating the broken plug and not the head you force the plug to expand more than the hole in the head. By getting it red hot you get the metal in the plug to a point where it deforms. When it cools down it will be smaller than the original size allowing it to be removed much easier. Do not use this method with aluminum heads.
 
I want to vote for Vet's an 135's recommendation about the square EZ out. The square ones that I have seen are called extractors, and are far less likely to break than the spiral ones. you need a set.
 
Weeeellllllllll? The standard methods might not be applicapable. Heating, welding a nut on it, etc. Might damage the head. I would say you are looking at a head removal job.

Gene
 
Heat the broken part to a dull red,then cool completely with candle wax.Long tapered candles work best.It'll practically come out with your fingers.The melted wax will burn off the top of the piston once ran.

I keep a few long candles in my torch cart at all times and after using the method MANY times, never failed yet.Now don't be taking your anniversary candles from the china hutch,just some old cheapies.
 
Use the Vet's idea and candle wax. Be sure to clear all debris out of the cylinder or it will still be a tear down and much more expensive. If the insulator came out intact, you got lucky. Jim
 
I don't drink beer so I would drill it out to the thread tap size and pick the threads out with a scribe after heating the threads with a torch. chase it out with a tap. I'd have it out while you were trying to find a candle without the chance of breaking an uneasy out.
 
Just did the tractor vets idea a few days ago on a Ford 9N. I did not take a chance, so I heated it twice before i even tried to remove them.
 
As few mentioned already , heat plug with torch , hit it with crayon or candle . Square easy out . No grinding ,drilling sawing . No metal gets into cylinder that way . Unless last resort . Quick n easy ! then more time for beer .
 
Heating the remains red hot a time or two with complete cooling in between will almost certainly make it VERY easy to unscrew the broken-off piece.

What the other guys DIDN'T tell you is that you need to keep your snoot away from over the top of the hole as any residual gas vapors in the cylinder will likely "pop" or at the very least, burn for a while as you do this.

You don't want to get blasted in the face with debris or get the eyebrows singed off!
 
I assumed you would remove the head before trying to remove the broken plug when stuck that tight. I have repaired several stripped plug threads in different heads and never considered repairing it without removing the head. I just like clean.
 

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