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Anybody use a Fi-Shock fencer?

W

Wesley Stephens

Member
We bought a Dare Enforcer brand 6 joule fencer a couple of years ago and it has quit again after being repaired under warranty. I have been using an old, less powerful fencer as a backup but today I bought a 5 joule Fi-Shock. I have not hooked it up yet and I was wondering if anyone here has experience with that brand.
 
The Dare is a better Fencer than anything FI SHOCK makes.Fencers get hit by lightning often,I do remember Fi Shock took 30 days to get a new transformer sent to me for a customers charger.
 
I--Uh!--have--Uh! one ---I am testing now!--UH!.It won't--UH! give a UH! steady Stream---AAHH!! of Juice ---AAHH!!!!
 
(quoted from post at 19:21:14 04/07/10) The Dare is a better Fencer than anything FI SHOCK makes.Fencers get hit by lightning often,I do remember Fi Shock took 30 days to get a new transformer sent to me for a customers charger.
Click to expand...
6 coupe, you are the resident fencer here & this posting brings up a question that I have been meaning to ask you. I have been into & sometimes repaired ~10 -12 fencers & notice that the capacitor that is dumped into the transformer varies by a large amount, say from ~ 10 microfarad to 100 microfarad. Why such a large variation as 10 to 1?
 
The charge capacitor affects the timing to some degree.The better chargers use an oil filled capactitor of 30mfd, some use 15 mfd .The Parmak FM used a strange looking capacitor from England 7.5 to 10 mfd.It loses value often and weakens the chargers out put.The older chargers used 50 or 100 mfd electrolytics that lost capacity often.A few used non polarized charge caps,never could figure that out.Charger repair is way down here.
 
The Dare charger is easy to repair and I would put one on my fence if my old Parmak gets beyond repair.I had a Holdem fencer that got hit by lightning 3 times in one week.Easy fix,wasnt the fencers fault.I have been working on fence chargers since the mid 50s and know which chargers work best for the money spent.Wont be any Fi Shocks on my fence.
 
Ive used and sold Parmak for many years but the new models are giving me fits.Ive got one in the shop now that needs 2 circuit boards.No more easy low cost repairs.Parmak was putting out a charger with the name Great States on it.Wonder if it stuck to the old design.
 
Have a small Fi-Shock unit (5 acre) hanging out in my hay barn, use it on the east boundary fence, about a quarter mile, works fine except when the deer cross and tangle the barb and hot wire. Had to change fuses once.
 
This brings a couple questions to mind for 36coupe and others regarding the hook up.

I use a 2 wire system around the corral and pasture. Both wires are hooked to the hot wire from the charger. At the end of the run, I have the two wires tied together again so it is a complete round circuit. It works but is that the correct way to do it?

On one wire towards the end of the run on the other side of the barn, I stripped the end of a spark plug wire and hung a spark plug from the wire. I spread the gap on the plug fairly wide and wrapped some baling wire around the base of the spark plug and stuck the other end in the ground. I can hear it zapping from the house and sometimes can see the spark at night so I can tell it is working. Just wondering if this is affecting the charge on the fence any since I am technically grounding it out there? The wires still measure a charge going through them.

I would like to rig up some kind of light that can be seen a few hundred yards so I can tell the fence is charging. Any ideas?
 
I know nothing about Fi Shock. Several folks here have talked about lightning and I will say if you are going to spend money on a good box I will recommend you spend the $20 for a lightning diverter. I have one of these and have taken 2 or 3 hits to the fince in the last few years and never had to replace any thing on the box. The reason I got one is my box took a hit and the replacment parts were around $50 at my dealer. I have a Gallagher M400 and love it but they don't make it any more, don't know what I will get if it ever dies.

Good luck.

Dave
polk here
 
(quoted from post at 13:52:05 04/08/10) This brings a couple questions to mind for 36coupe and others regarding the hook up.

I use a 2 wire system around the corral and pasture. Both wires are hooked to the hot wire from the charger. At the end of the run, I have the two wires tied together again so it is a complete round circuit. It works but is that the correct way to do it?

On one wire towards the end of the run on the other side of the barn, I stripped the end of a spark plug wire and hung a spark plug from the wire. I spread the gap on the plug fairly wide and wrapped some baling wire around the base of the spark plug and stuck the other end in the ground. I can hear it zapping from the house and sometimes can see the spark at night so I can tell it is working. Just wondering if this is affecting the charge on the fence any since I am technically grounding it out there? The wires still measure a charge going through them.

I would like to rig up some kind of light that can be seen a few hundred yards so I can tell the fence is charging. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
bc, using the spark plug (any kind of gap, be it plug or not) sets the upper voltage limit of your wire. As the voltages rises from zero toward its peak value, it reaches a voltage that will arc across your gap. Once the arc is established, the voltage can rise no higher & in fact is quickly quenched by the low resistance conductivity of the plasma in the arc. This depletes the energy of the charger and drops the voltage.....essentially the arc is the end of that jolt on the fence. That voltage limit my be perfectly high enough, however. There are little pocket testers sold which use a high resistance in series with a neon discharge lamp/bulb. These are cheap, have one wire for user to stick in the ground & then touch the bulb/resistor holder to hot wire & lamp flashes with fence. This won't put much of a drain on the fence.

P.S. 36 coupe, thanks for response regarding my capacitor question.
 
Thanks JMOR. I'll take my new Zareba digital tester out there and check it for voltage at different parts of the fence. Depending upon how it works, I could widen the gap some more on the plug. I'm sure the horses are getting the message that the fence is working with that plug cracking and sparking.

Those pocket testers seem to run about 20-25 bucks. Kinda pricy for probably a neon bulb and a few resistors.

I could try hooking up a ne-2 neon bulb with some 470K resistors in series but I still need something that can be seen from a distance, particularly from the kitchen window. Maybe they have a bigger neon bulb. Guess I'll stop at radido shack.

I pulled apart my zareba lightning arrestor and it is just a couple resistors with about 5 big mov's in series.

Regarding capacitors. I just picked up a new run cap for my A/C fan. 5uf@370 volts. Wholesale cost at local supplier was 91 cents. They also have 7.5, 25, 35, 40 and maybe others that probably don't cost a whole lot more. I believe those are oil filled cans. Would one of these work well for a replacement?
 
You are choking your charger with the spark plug and generating radio and telephone interference ,get rid of it.A good PARMAK SE 3 will jump a 1/2 inch gap on a clean fence.
 
36 coupe, Electrical device repair is not my strong suit, but I'd like to learn more about it, especially at keeping fencers going. The Dare I have will put out current, but the amount is very little. Using one of the testers with 5 lights, it will light up one of them with a good ground and no fence hooked up. Do you have any suggestions about what to check?
 
Lightning has hit the transformer.No easy way to test.I can spot a bad one by the sound it makes when the charge hits the transformer.I have several 5 gallon pails full of lightning damaged transformers.
 
I should said more on charge capacitor values but my dog rings a small bell by the back door when he wants to go out.I have learned to pay attention when he rings.Early chargers were able to get about 150 volts to discharge into the output trans former.they used an 80mfd to max the voltage.Input transformers boosted the voltage to 250 volts.The SE3 raised the voltage to 400 volts.This made the output trans former easier to wind and use larger wire.The SE 3 used a 30 mfd oil capacitor.The SE3 was Parmaks best charger.I sold them for 120 bucks for many years.The new SE4 is a big mistake and costs 200 bucks.I repair the new models but I wont sell them.
 
(quoted from post at 12:42:52 04/09/10) Thanks JMOR. I'll take my new Zareba digital tester out there and check it for voltage at different parts of the fence. Depending upon how it works, I could widen the gap some more on the plug. I'm sure the horses are getting the message that the fence is working with that plug cracking and sparking.

Those pocket testers seem to run about 20-25 bucks. Kinda pricy for probably a neon bulb and a few resistors.

I could try hooking up a ne-2 neon bulb with some 470K resistors in series but I still need something that can be seen from a distance, particularly from the kitchen window. Maybe they have a bigger neon bulb. Guess I'll stop at radido shack.

I pulled apart my zareba lightning arrestor and it is just a couple resistors with about 5 big mov's in series.

Regarding capacitors. I just picked up a new run cap for my A/C fan. 5uf@370 volts. Wholesale cost at local supplier was 91 cents. They also have 7.5, 25, 35, 40 and maybe others that probably don't cost a whole lot more. I believe those are oil filled cans. Would one of these work well for a replacement?
Click to expand...
3.85 at Gemplers. Those caps may work.............never tried them.
http://www.pronto.com/user/search.d...amp;site={placement}&loadingComplete=true
 
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