Other ways to remove a wet sleeve?

I'm replacing the pistons, rings and sleeves on my A/C D17. I've tried pounding them up from the bottom (crank is still in the block, block is in the frame), and tried building a sleeve puller from some 3/8" flat stock and all-thread. The sleeve puller just gets bent out of shape.

Anyone have some other suggestions? I thought about heating it up slowly with a torch to about 300 degrees, then applying some ice or water to the sleeve. I also thought about cutting a slit or two down from the top with an angle grinder and cut-off wheel.

I have heard that some people run a few weld beads up the sleeve. The heat is supposed to make it expand and then when it cools it should come out easy.

running a couple of welds in the sleeve makes it contract, which makes it relatively easy to remove old sleeve.

Keith & Shawn(Gold Medal winner)

I"ve used a bottle jack before.The bead of weld method works with dry sleeve engines.

BTDT I know that the block likes to old onto the bottom of an old wet sleeve. If your water jacket is dry try putting some of your favorite juice in to penetrate down from the middle. Then I would suggest working from below with a screw driver and whatever else you have to remove as much of the build up that you can from the bottom of the sleeve to help it slide up in.

Hello paulinkansas,
You need to put pressure on the sleeve from the bottom. Clean the sleeve area that is below the block if any. Take a bottle jack and a suitable wood extension up to the sleeve. Put some pressue on the sleeve, and with a dead blow hammer, or a piece of wood and a hammer, you can hit the block. Use a spot close to the liner and hit away. Don't use hard blows, easy into it.
You may luck out and the liner will come out for you this way.
Guido.

Being a machinist I'd say 3/8" isn't nearly thick enough to do what you need it to. I'd say have one made that is atleast 1" thick, and then it should be able to hold up.

Donovan from Wisconsin

I'll second the welding idea. Take a 3/32" 6011 rod at about 70 amps and burn a few beads up the length of the sleeve. the welding will contract the sleeve enough that it will come right out. Works great on bearing races too. Jf

if you do the weld like others have said, don't hit yourself in the nose, cause it will almost jump out at you
good luck

if you weld COVER THE CRANK REAL GO SO NO WELD GETS ON ANY JURNAL or you will be getting crank ground

It kind of sounds like you might be doing something wrong.First 3/8 is maybe too thin for the puller.The puller has to be a little smaller than the sleeve so it wont hang in the block.You have to have some kind of legs and a piece of all thread or some kind of threaded rod and a bar to go across the legs and that bar needs to be stout.Plus your legs need to be away from the top edge of the sleeve or you cant pull it.The thing to do might be to look at a picture of a sleeve puller and make one like that.What you do is you tighten up the threaded rod and it ought to pull the sleeve.If you do try welding on the sleeve you want to cover your crank so it does not get any slag stuck to it.Metal preferably because a rag might catch fire.Also you want to get it clean around there because right after you strike an arc there will be a fire wherever there is oil under it and if its greasy you could have trouble.I think maybe you can pull the sleeve without welding on it anyway.Others would know better about an Allis Chalmers because I have not worked on one of them,but usually wet sleeves pull out easier than dry sleeves which are the kind that it helps to weld on.You might be right about heating it a little,you want to be careful doing that.I would say heat it around the top where the sleeve fits into the block and down about where the o rings are.300 might be hot enough.Then let it cool off.I dont know if you want to pour water on it,but maybe go eat lunch.Come back and try it then.You might want to hear from an Allis Chalmers mechanic before you do any of that stuff.

Go back to your sleeve puller idea just go with heavier matl. Your plate across bottom of sleeve needs to be 3/4 or even 1 inch thick and fit the sleeve properly.It is best if you take some dimemsions and get pc. that goes on bottom of sleeve machined with a step in it to go inside sleeve and keep it centered.Drill hole in center of it for at least a 1 inch unf grade 5 or better pc, of threaded rod. On the top side you just need a suitable sized pc. of schdule 40 pipe that sleeve o.d. will clear. Probably 4 1/2 or 5 inch for a D17 sleeve ? On top of the pipe another pc. of 3/4 or 1 inch plate with hole for your threaded rod to go thru. Make sure you use grade 8 flat washers under your nuts so nut dont dig in.Not knocking other ideas , but welding on the inside of your sleeves has inherent hazards if you dont really watch what you are doing.

You just need a bigger hammer. Seriously, if you aren't trying to save the sleeves I usa a long brass punch or a piece of hard wood and wail on 'em. Haven't met one yet that didn't pop loose that way. Be ready for water to come pouring out if you haven't been able to completely drain the block.

My Snap-On sleve puller has 1 inch threaded
and pulls diesel engine sleeves with no problems