60 JOHN DEERE ALTERNATOR WIRING

CAN ANYONE HELP WITH WIRING A SINGLE POLE ALTERNATOR NEED SOME KIND OF DIAGRAM IM ALSO REPLACING IGNITON/LIGHT SWITCH,AMPMETER,
THANKS TOMMY

If your talking a 1 wire Delco alternator what is the big deal you hook it to the battery side of the solinipod or right to the battery either will work but that one wire set up is pure junk in my book and a 3 wire is the best set up and the cheapest to boot

(quoted from post at 21:56:26 01/11/10) CAN ANYONE HELP WITH WIRING A SINGLE POLE ALTERNATOR NEED SOME KIND OF DIAGRAM IM ALSO REPLACING IGNITON/LIGHT SWITCH,AMPMETER,
THANKS TOMMY

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JD 60 didn't have an alternator. For the wiring diagrams they are at 1-800-522-7448.
Replacing the ignition switch and ammeter with what and why?

Very simple wiring to a Delco 1 wire alternator. All you need to do is attach both the original L wire and the BAT wire from the original harness regulator connections to the BAT stud on the alternator rear.

Unless the 1 wire alternator is a rare POS ground model, you will need to convert the tractor to NEG ground.
All that is involved in the conversion to NEG ground, is to connect the 12V battery NEG post to ground and the "hot" cable to the POS post.

When you change the ground polarity, you will have to swap all wires from side to side on the ammeter posts so it indicates correctly with NEG ground. With the alternator connected to the L and BAT wires, the alternator output goes through the ammeter so it can indicate charge.

Don't forget the coil polarity aqs well. That is a common cause of poor starting due to weak spark.

That tractor was originally POSITIVE ground and since most all alternators require Negative ground, you need to make a few changes.

1) The wires on the ammeter need swapped side to side otherwise it will read bass ackwards.

2) Of course, install the battery with its NEG post to ground and Pos is the big cable that leads down to the starter.

3) That alternators output wires to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter and Id upgrade that to at least a 10 Gauge. The ammeters other SUPPLY terminal is what wires to the starter post (I like that 10 gauge also). The ammeters Load terminal may also feed hot battery voltage to the lights and ignition switch BAT input if those loads werent previously fed from an L terminal if it had a 4 terminal Voltage Regulator. The same can be accomplished if you just wire the alternators output to the wire or wires that hooked to BAT and LOAD on the VR, but Id prefer you upgrade to a new 10 gauge and run the alternators output up to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of the ammeter. If it had a 4 terminal VR with a LOAD terminal, that wire is what feeds hot battery voltage to lights and ignition, but with no VR anymore it could be ran to either the Load side of the ammeter or just hooked right there onto the alternators output.

4) The coil wires need swapped if you convert from Pos to Neg ground for best performance

John T

THANKS FOR ALL THE INFORMATION, I WILL APPLY IT THIS WEEKEND. I WILL GIVE RESULTS WHEN COMPLETE.
THANKS AGAIN, TOMMY

If you get rid of the 'All Capital Lettering".We'll tell you how properly wire up the 60.

ok