Refacing flanges of manifold?

Hendrik · Oct 20, 2009

This is the dual fuel manifold of my Farmall Super A.

<a href="http://s723.photobucket.com/albums/ww237/farmallholder/?action=view&current=dualfuelmanifold.jpg" target="_blank">

dualfuelmanifold.jpg" border="0" alt="Super A dual fuel manifold

</a>

The faces of the exhaust ports (number 1, 3, 4, and 6, counting from either end) are badly corroded and chipped. When I put a straight edge on the faces some are 1/32" (locally) below the faces of the (healthy) intake ports. Should I have the whole thing milled flat? Or can I use as is, provided I mount new CIH gaskets?
Would like to hear your comments or recommendations. Thanks, Hendrik

Anonymous-0 · Oct 20, 2009

Based on a V-8 Ford I had with similar flange conditions, a thick gasket will hold until the first time you work it hard for a few seconds. I was going to make a copper gasket with embossed ridges but I never did. Plane the manifold and check the head.

Gerald J.

glennster · Oct 20, 2009

if it were mine, "d have a machine shop take a couple passes down it and clean it up. if you dont, it prolly will continue to leak, and keep corroding the manifold.

redtom · Oct 20, 2009

We have a W-30 Mck-D that looked the same we faced it off in a Bridgeport mill.

Uncle Ernie · Oct 20, 2009

Milling is the way to go. If you cannot afford that used a flatboard sander.
If you have a good muffler shop near by some of them have large stationary belt sanders for resurfacing manifolds. They do a good job too.

lucas boy · Oct 20, 2009

i usually surface grind in that situation and forgetaboutit..

MeanGene1 · Oct 20, 2009

Yep, have it milled- the ports will be in line and seal well, and when they're not, that's why a lot of manifolds crack, tightened and forced into stress because they don't fit right

buickanddeere · Oct 20, 2009

Surface grinder. Old heat treated cast iron is sometimes to hard to cut with a mill.
If it doesn't start out flat, the gaskets are doomed.

Walterdavies · Oct 20, 2009

Take the unit apart and then you can clean up the exhaust and intake separately then reassemble loosely and then clamp to engine after that tighten all other bolts. This will line it all up and give you a better seat.
Walt

Anonymous-0 · Oct 20, 2009

After you do all of the suggested procedures, coat both sides of the gasket with a good quality muffler cement.

Nebraska Kirk · Oct 20, 2009

deleted

Crem · Oct 20, 2009

Try running a large file flat cross it and see how hard it is to file. I filed the manifold on my Ferguson that way and I removed at least 1/32" on the high spots. It is a lot of work and you have to keep the file flat. If you have the time and energy it may work out. You don't have to do it all at one session.

)

iowatom · Oct 21, 2009

Spending the money now will save it later. my machine shop has a big horizontal belt sander they run them across. takes a couple minutes.

skycarp · Oct 21, 2009

A new repo manifold is available from OEM Tractor Parts for $129.50 plus shipping. You can get the gaskets there also.

www.oemtractorparts.com

Hendrik · Oct 21, 2009

Crem. Good idea. I tried to file it but it is too hard.

Hendrik · Oct 21, 2009

Skycarp.
I am not against going with new but do not know where to buy a new dual fuel manifold. The one on the OEM site does not look like one. Any suggestions where to buy?

Hendrik · Oct 21, 2009

Walt. All six ports are one cast piece, so it can only be mounted as a whole.

Hendrik · Oct 21, 2009

Thanks to all who replied. Very good suggestions. Will take it to a machine stop and refrain from tinkering with it. The large belt or disk sander sounds like the way to go, instead of milling. Less chance of breaking this 50+ year old casting that went thru thousands of thermal cycles.
In the meantime I also checked the corresponding faces on the cylinder head. These look nice and flat (sigh of relief).
Thanks again, Hendrik.

Refacing flanges of manifold?

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