Here tis (PICS)

Lou from Wi. · Sep 15, 2009

Hey Alan from Neb. Remember you asked where the loader was on the 706.Well here tis/lol. My son finished the Hydraulics today and it works just dandy. His first time in installing ,bending seamless stainless steel tubing .I,in advertanly led you to believe I did it But the truth of the matter is, He done 99/0 of the work in making the tractor what it is today.From manufacturing parts,welding,painting,cab repair. and a host of other items to long here to mention.Next item on the agenda is the sad bucket that the previous owner pushed trees with it. (not the tractor just the bucket.) We made new tangs ,for the schwartz loader,greaseable pins so the wear will be miniscule on the brackets. he and I went all over the country and a couple of states getting the cab,loader rear tire, a rim and tubes. New tires for the front. Ordered the Ss tubing from Ill,bender from Northern tool. fittings from discount Hyd hose company.He did a tremendous job on welding where it was necessary,so the end result is one heck of a fine I.H.706 WITH A LOADER lol Now you don"t have to wonder any longer lol. Here are pictures for you to look at so you know the loader is on and working.
Miss your pictures of your haying etc. ALLAN You are responsible for the heat in the cab,so I won"t freeze my 74 year old ask me no questions off this winter, which by the way,is just over the horizon. Got tire chains just waiting for the ice & snow. Wont be long now as the cat said when he backed into the lawn mower.Thanks for all your advice and help.
LOU

Spook · Sep 15, 2009

Really nice work!!

730 virgil · Sep 15, 2009

if you get to liking pushing snow with that 706 you can bring on down to il and keep in practice.

omahagreg · Sep 15, 2009

Very nice work! Greg

burban2002 · Sep 15, 2009

Man that looks sharp! Nice work.

fixerupper · Sep 15, 2009

Very nice! Jim

phillip d · Sep 15, 2009

holy Hanna that's incredible!

Nancy Howell · Sep 15, 2009

Phoenix

(beautiful mythical bird that rose from the ashes)

Owen Aaland · Sep 15, 2009

A couple of observations from someone who spends his time working on these machines rather than using them for work.

The copper plumbing looks nice for the cab heater but keep in mind that copper will lose heat much faster than heater hose. Those old girls usually don't have much extra cab heat when used on a loader.

Also could be a problem to remove the two frame bolts when you need to split it. If you are going to use soldered copper like that you need to put some unions as close a practical to the engine so that it can be taken apart when necessary.

James Howell · Sep 15, 2009

Absolutely beautiful!

You certainly did some great work on your tractor.

Congratulations on a job well done.

Lou from Wi. · Sep 16, 2009

Hi Owen. The copper tubing just goes to the engine where the hose bibs end. from there on it"S heater hose clear to the back where the heater tubing comes through the cab floor.
Both the hoses are covered with insulated tubing( same as household tubing is applied to a water heater) so it will come apart if need be.
Ruber heater hose is bracketed with rubber covered clamps so it doesn"t SAG. All Bolts are Stainless Steel through out the tractor. HATE RUSTY FROZEN NUTS AND BOLTS. Sheild plate covers heater drop down tubeing at the rear of the cab.
My son won"t have time this year to upholster the inside of the cab as he is going to be busy driving a steiger for a farmer(Every year) during corn harvest Hope to get the bucket repaired, Sand blasted and painted soon.
Thanks for the input .
And many thanks for all who gave such nice comments.Appreciate them.
LOU

Lou from Wi. · Sep 16, 2009

Hi Virgil
Cute response as all the coments that was posted. Thanks but No thanks on Comming to Illinois for plowing.lol. Sure we will have enough snow here in the north country to keep us busy. Lookin for a BAD WINTER.Hope I'm wrong . Thanks
LOU

Anonymous-0 · Sep 16, 2009

Just gets uglier and uglier...... My offer still stands :roll:

Is the 1st pic what it looked like when you brought it home?

Dave

Lou from Wi. · Sep 16, 2009

Thanks for the coment. Certainly wasn't going to go quite that far in re doing what was neglected.Just going to put on tires. an old cab.and a loader of somekind. The point of fact is. I just can't see something going to pot that would be servicable and nice looking at the same time. I can imagine what these magnificant tractors looked like off the assembly line.
For a 1965 I.H. there was a great deal of engineering that went into the design for the time. My SOn did a beautifull job in bringing it back to like new. At my age,74 with diabetes it
becomes nearly impossible to do much of anything any more. But as My daughter says LIFE GOES ON.
She is bateling Cancer And She also helped in the project.Running tools etc. Even My wife who has several major operations, helped with cleaning parts, So it was a family project.
Gotta say the Tractor didn't cost an arm and a leg. Most parts we made, Floor, Mounting plate for Valves. etc. Lots of engeneering in the colum
instruments,ash tray & pop holder Fuse panel ,
and on and on . New tangs new Hyd cylinders new tire. Tran fluid, filter. Oh Boy I could write a book on what was done. I do believe this is close to my last vestage of such projects.
The good lord will determine that any way.
Thanks for such nice coments. from you and all who looked .
LOU

Lou from Wi. · Sep 16, 2009

Hi Dave NOTTA CHANCE> lol/ep thats what it looked like when the wrecker haulded it home.
Tractor wes running when we went to look at it, The guy even took My son for a spin to show it worked, even the T>A.. Went to the dealer to see if we could rent a trailer from him for a few hours to haul it home. Had several trailers setting on the lot but would you believe, He wouldn't rent one to us for a couple hours. So we got a wrecker to haul it. All the tin even the fenders were on the tractor. so it wasn't missing any parts in that respect. Generator was shot, voltage regulator was burnt, wiring was patched with duct tape and a single wire run so it would start. He had to charge the battery quite often. He used it to cut hay for local farmers. Had a lot of war stories about his drinking adventures. Sure Showed.
So now its uglier then first brought home huh?
I was wondering if you were scheduled with a EYE DOCTOR SOON lol.
Any Way Dave. Thanks for the coments. STILL NO DEAL guess we will have to suffer the embarrasment for years to come. Cant hide forever though.
LOU

Flewster · Sep 16, 2009

Very nice.......on another note that is the very same front end that is under my D17......I am trying to find out what kind it is and how to make it turn sharper.......it does not turn very sharp and since I don't know what kind it is I don't know what to ask about........but looking at pics it is the same one..........do you have any info on it?

wayne

Lou from Wi. · Sep 16, 2009

The front end on the 706 is a Swartz front end.
Ordered tie rod ends for a farmall 706 and when they came. was way to small >IH tie rod ends sloped in the end and was way to short and narrow. Got to checking around from several parts houses and soon discovered it was indeed a swartz. Tie rod ends are still available we were told.If you want we can look up the parts houses that still cary swartz parts, Not sure what you need ,but will give it our best shot. Hope this helps. LOU

Lou from Wi. · Sep 16, 2009

WAS wrong.Parts houses didn't have parts but my son remembers he got information from internet .don't know which one. Said to tell you , you might extend the adjustment on the tie rod ends to see if that helps. Another sugestion is to see where the stops are on the axle. Our stops are loose so we get a full turn radious . Steering could be set at the factory with a narrow front end gear box. Sorry about the wrong info. I'm sure there are others on this forum a lot smarter then me. Hope this does help/
LOU

T_Bone · Sep 16, 2009

Hi LOU,

You and your son done IH right proud!!! Very nice.

? Why did you use gate valves and not ball valves. Just curious.

? Did you use anti-seize on the SS bolts before running the SS nuts home? SS bolts and nuts have a tendency to gall bad when removed.

T_Bone

Flewster · Sep 16, 2009

Still having the narrow frontend gear box could be my problem.......I don't know a lot about the mechanics of the d17 front end but it was def converted and it must be a swartz as it is exactly like yours......The stps are lose and they are not it........just does not turn as sharp as it should.....

Anonymous-0 · Sep 17, 2009

(quoted from post at 07:41:36 09/16/09) guess we will have to suffer the embarrasment for years to come. Cant hide forever though.
LOU

Just wear sunglasses and a big hat so noone knows it's you. At least, if you stand close to the tractor, they won't notice your red face... :roll:

Looks very nice though. Can't wait to get some color on my little tractor. Also fighting with myself about a 800 mile or so (RT) drive to pick up a baler that is pretty and red.

Keep up the good work and pics.

Dave

Lou from Wi. · Sep 17, 2009

Thanks for the swell imput. Didn"t use ball valves cause we thought they just might jar closed. After reflection don"t think that would happen though and would be a little difficult to tie em in with the frame bracket that supports the valves and tubing. Availability of space had a lot to do with the choice of valves.Could have used just one valve ,as Alan from Neb.pictured showed. Thought about that and decided that two valves would allow water shut off with out pluging line from the block in case we had to remove the cab for any reason. Yep used Anti -seize on al the bolts. Thanks for your comments. LOU

T_Bone · Sep 17, 2009

Hi LOU,

Another valve too consider for future projects is a ball gas valve rated for low pressure(under 100psi) and have "red" thumb handle that's about 1-1/4" long. Turns easy but dent locked open/closed.

Although NG, LP gas rated, they would work well using them with low pressure water systems on any thing for non-habital structures.

T_Bone

Flewster · Sep 17, 2009

(quoted from post at 11:22:34 09/17/09) Hi LOU,

Another valve too consider for future projects is a ball gas valve rated for low pressure(under 100psi) and have "red" thumb handle that's about 1-1/4" long. Turns easy but dent locked open/closed.

Although NG, LP gas rated, they would work well using them with low pressure water systems on any thing for non-habital structures.

T_Bone

I might be leary using a gas valve on a water system due to the fact most are just plain steel and not galvinized or copper.......they would rust pretty quickly.....IMHO........

charles lendman · Sep 17, 2009

Looks Great!! EVEN if it is RED!! Thanks !! Charles

T_Bone · Sep 17, 2009

(quoted from post at 14:39:11 09/17/09)

(quoted from post at 11:22:34 09/17/09) Hi LOU,

Another valve too consider for future projects is a ball gas valve rated for low pressure(under 100psi) and have "red" thumb handle that's about 1-1/4" long. Turns easy but dent locked open/closed.

Although NG, LP gas rated, they would work well using them with low pressure water systems on any thing for non-habital structures.

T_Bone

Click to expand...

I might be leary using a gas valve on a water system due to the fact most are just plain steel and not galvinized or copper.......they would rust pretty quickly.....IMHO........

Hi Flewster,

They make them in all brass, or the ones that are approved in AZ are. It's a local code thing. If the company summits there valve for gas use approval, then it can be used.

Here my county spec'd "Specter" gas valves only.

I asked the inspector if the County held owned alot of "Specter" stock.

Inspector: No, there the only ones who summited there gas valve for approval. lmao

T_Bone

T_Bone · Sep 17, 2009

(quoted from post at 14:39:11 09/17/09)

(quoted from post at 11:22:34 09/17/09) Hi LOU,

Another valve too consider for future projects is a ball gas valve rated for low pressure(under 100psi) and have "red" thumb handle that's about 1-1/4" long. Turns easy but dent locked open/closed.

Although NG, LP gas rated, they would work well using them with low pressure water systems on any thing for non-habital structures.

T_Bone

Click to expand...

I might be leary using a gas valve on a water system due to the fact most are just plain steel and not galvinized or copper.......they would rust pretty quickly.....IMHO........

Hi Flewster,

They make them in all brass, or the ones that are approved in AZ are. It's a local code thing. If the company summits there valve for gas use approval, then it can be used.

Here my county spec'd "Specter" gas valves only.

I asked the inspector if the County held owned alot of "Specter" stock.

Inspector: No, there the only ones who summited there gas valve for approval. lmao

T_Bone

Owen Aaland · Sep 19, 2009

(quoted from post at 09:43:56 09/16/09) Hi Owen. The copper tubing just goes to the engine where the hose bibs end. from there on it"S heater hose clear to the back where the heater tubing comes through the cab floor. ..............
.............Thanks for the input .
And many thanks for all who gave such nice comments.Appreciate them.
LOU

My comments had to do with what happens when you have to replace a water pump or remove the cylinder head. Without a way to disconnect the piping from the head or pump it will all have to be removed as a unit before the piping can be unscrewed. Unions close to the head and pump would solve that.

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